Holy Sh**, its a miracle the thing ran at all.

I was trying to figure out the problem causing the topic posted about here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=144027


and well I got desprite and wanted to know if I was getting fuel. So being an LT1 and the fuel rails/injectors are easily accessible, I unbolted the rails, left everything hooked up and tried to crank it

...would you believe I got 2 single straight streams of gas that lasted about 1/2 sec each and that was it. These things were HORRIBLE.

Took all 8 out, soaked them in carb cleaner and scrubbed them w/ a toothbrush and the carb cleaner looked like iced tea by the time I was done. Put them back in and the car runs smoother and sounds better.

BUT IT STILL HAS THE BUCKING PROBLEM, only after its been driven for a few miles though. We've rulled out fuel. Im going to a junk yard tomarrow anyway. I'll probobly grab a coil just to test it. for a few $ either it fixes it and its GREAT, or wow, Im out only $5

 

Man i hope you're talking about a beater here. Trying to make power on a fubar set of injectors is kinda sketchy at best, and at worst is going to cost you your engine.

 

I had a bucking problem once before, found it to be an intermittent MAF sensor. Just a thought. But since you said it was only after you drive a couple miles maybe CTS?? I had a CTS that would only go out when I turned the car to the right and cause it to buck, but only after it was warmed up.

 

Im begining to think its an intermitten MAF problem, cause now my light is on for Code 33, but I was thinking that it was the TPS set wrong (which is was) but I fixed that, and now the light is on for code 33 (MAF)

and when the light is on, it doesnt buck or anything, it drives like it should.

when it bucked it actually felt like you were letting on/off the gas real quick, or like you couldnt drive stick. Could that be the MAF sensor.

Is there any way to check it?

 

Could the MAF sensor also cause it to now start sometimes, cause there would be times that it would crank forever and not start. then it would fire rite up later on

 

Well, if I remember right mine threw a code 33 as well, but it took alot of bucking before it threw any codes. What I did to check it was this: I started it up and waited until I had a real nice smooth idle, then i just gave the MAF sensor a light tap (right around where the electronics in it are), the instant I did that the motor sputtered real bad and shut off. So for me it was pretty much a dead ringer that that was the problem. But, if doesn't do that it doesn't necessarily mean your MAF is good though either. And yes the bucking was severe and only in short little bursts - very similair to an automatic tranny shifting hard except staying in the same gear and the same speed.

 

unplug the MAF the car will go in to LIMP HOME mode but will still run runs rich as hell.... if it runs good like that then its your MAF..... BTW if u have K&N air filters you could have oil on the wire in the MAF.....

 

well now that the light is on for code 33 it runs fine. so I was thinking that it is the MAF and its just ignoring it rite now while the light is on.

I dont have a K&N but I have one of those 3" Autozone Cone K&N copies, but they arent oiled.