Has anyone ever combined the AS&M semi-siamese runners with the accel base intake?

Having some problems getting the runners, gaskets, and base to all line up happily. It seems like i will need to do some very signifigant porting to the intake and make custom gaskets to get this to work (the accel gaskets certainly won't work, and I don't have any from AS&M). The accel gaskets won't even seal against the AS&M flange at all, i'd have a vacuum leak if I tried.

any helpful hints? I just ordered the superram plenum and runners "just in case". but would be nice to make these AS&M runners work, so I don't have to use the superram plenum and runners (and can return them for a refund, they are frickin expensive!)

edit: yes, i know a stock L98 doesn't really need a superram. I had no intentions to go superram, was going to be happy with the accel base and the AS&M SS LTR's that I got good deals on..

 

I would like to use AS&M SS runners and a Superram intake down the road too. Let us know how it turns out.

 

Well, heres what I've got so far...

the accel gaskets just wont work. they are too loose fitting, the port holes are too big and the gaskets themselves have too many thin spots in them. they would leak air big time.

I custom made a set of gaskets for the bottom of the AS&M runners - the runner holes exactly the same size, and a little bit of extra material around the outside of the flange. these will work and seal, but what a pain.

I ordered the AS&M gaskets, they will be here tomorrow and I will see if they work, as I haven't had the time yet to put the as&m runners on yet.

the superram plenum and runners allso showed up today. i'm going to check them out, and if they are easier to put on, I might go with them. the as&m are a pain. the bottom two bolts are next to impsosible and the runners are big enough that the wire harness can no longer go down betwene the valve cover and runners.

 

I run AS&M SS runners on an Edelbrock base...no problems. I use the AS&M gaskets....I have a set of the accel gaskets lying around somewhere, I don't think they'd work.

For those bottom bolts I use a ball-type allen key. Dip the tip of the allen key in RTV, rubber cement, or any kind of tacky substance. This way it holds the bolt to the tool while you are tightening it.

I've heard a lot of people say that the superram upper installation is just as much of a pain, but I've never done it, so I couldn't say for sure.

 

Well, I've got the runners on. The lower bolts are definately a pain - first to get them started, then to come back and tighten them. A small mirror on an extension helped immensely in getting the torx bit onto the screw.

I used a 3/8 torx bit removed from it's holder, and chucked in a 1/4" drive socket (sorry, don't remember the size), followed by a 1" extension then a universal/swivel and about a 5" extension to a ratchet. Didn't take the valve covers off but it would certainly have helped. I got a few of the passenger side lowers started by "chucking" the bare torx bit in a bit of fuel line that i strategically cut and taped to get it just in the right spot. You have to feel blind but it worked. OH, and I held the bolts to the bit by wrapping tape on the head of teh bit then jamming the bolt onto it.

I haven't yet received the AS&M gaskets, but I'll probably hold on to them just in case. the superram goes back unless something drastic goes wrong with the AS&M SS runners. If traxion can run 12's with these things, then that's enough for me My only worry now is that the AS&M runners don't have an E.O. number to keep the smog police happy, i'm hoping they simply overlook it and/or don't say anything. after all, they are "just" the stock runners that i welded up because they kept cracking and leaking, right?!

the superram sure is nice looking though! But the $775 from summit is half of a pair of AFR 190's ... or a nice new valvetrain!

 

the AS&M gaskets arrived, it looks like they would hve worked fine, but i already have everything together with my hand made gaskets, so oh well.

the runners definately feel like they have provided more air to the engine at high rpm, but i can also feel the stock fuel curve sucking out too much fuel at the upper rpms' now (much past about 4500). Ordered my DIY WB parts kit and sensor today.....so i'll get it fixed soon enough!

 

What was the total price for the WB O2 kit? Can you break it down by kit Vs. sensor?

 

parts kit is, oh i don't know, $15 or so off the diYWB web site...the sensor is currently available through some channels for under $200 but other channels have it for over twice that..you have to shop around. basically there is only one manufacturer of the sensor and they suddenly realized they had a monopoly on a cool piece. the board (not included with the kit) is also a few bucks.

www.diy-wb.com