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does anyone know what fittings would need to be purchased and how to go about removing the fuel line from the front of the fuel rail in order to convert a factory fuel rail into a rear enter/exit like the one in the picture? I belive I got the picture from Street & Performance's website about a year ago, but can't find any info on it on their website or in the catalog I have from them. Thanks for any help
has anyone even tried to remove the fuel line from the front passenger side fuel rail? Is it pressed in, threaded? I'm just trying to avoid ruining a good fuel rail by finding out the hard way.
I was wondering the same thing about the fuel line because Im polishing the rails and painting the lines. I think there is a special tool needed to take it apart.
I just looked at mine and I would say its pressed in. I looks like the line is pressed into a sleeve and then pressed into the rail. I would guess you would have to cut it off, drill whats left out and tap it to fit AN fitting.
I wonder if I heated the rail with a heat gun if it would expand just enough to pull the line and/or sleeve out? I guess it all else fails I'll just drill it all out, tap it, and plug it off. I'm with Dokken10 on this one, that has been the most obvious thing I've come up with too. When I do, I'll take a couple pictures to either show some one how to do it or how to destroy a good fuel rail . All I know is that when I get this thing put together, those fuel lines will not be in the front of the motor! I'm kind of suprised no one has information on this, I've searched and searched on the web. It seems like it would be something people would want to do.
I think what most people do is get the fuel rail setup off the corvette or something so they are in a different location...not 100% sure on this though as I dont know exactly where the corvette TPI fuel lines come in.
well, heating it doesn't work!!!! I heated it with a propane torch and it still never budged. So, I took a cut off wheel to it and just cut it off. I've already encountered my first problem. The sleeve inside the rail has an inside diameter of .300", however, right past the spot where the cross over tube is it narrows to .100", I wonder if I need to drilll this all the way out or if fuel flow will not be effected if I leave it in. I'll post pics tonight.
It doesn't seem that anyone really cares, but maybe someone will be looking for this information on how to do this some other day. Here's the opening, hard line cut, and cleaned up with a 1/2" drill bit. I'm thinking about drilling the .100" hole to match the .300" opening, taping the hole and plugging it.
It doesn't seem that anyone really cares, but maybe someone will be looking for this information on how to do this some other day. Here's the opening, hard line cut, and cleaned up with a 1/2" drill bit. I'm thinking about drilling the .100" hole to match the .300" opening, taping the hole and plugging it.
What did you ever find out many years ago with regards to the center hole in the fuel rail? I'm about to drill it out completely, lol.
I’ve drilled and taped the restrictor out. Once taped you can use a bolt and heat the rail and remove the restrictor. Actually putting an appropriate socket between the bolt and tighten it will pull the restrictor into the socket opening. Hope that makes sense.
I’ve drilled and taped the restrictor out. Once taped you can use a bolt and heat the rail and remove the restrictor. Actually putting an appropriate socket between the bolt and tighten it will pull the restrictor into the socket opening. Hope that makes sense.
So basically once that restrictor is removed it open just like the rear drivers side where the cold start injector feeds from? I know that restrictor has a hole in the center as well as two holes on each side. You saw no issues?
I’m not sure , the feeds on the rails I’ve seen have a slightly crimped piece raised up.
was this filed down and tapped too ?
yes. I put it on the mill and shaved it flush. Then I drilled it out with 1/2” drill bit I had it tapped at first with 1/4npt but my fitting wouldn’t go in as far as it should have so then I drilled it out to 1/2” and I’m going to tap it for M14x1.5 fitting to -6AN
Yes that’s the restrictor. You might try removing. The crip and press fit should hold under pressure but now the crimp is gone not sure I’d trust it. I’ve always heated it up and removed.
if I recall it will be a 3/4 hole it’s not real deep it has a stop if I recall so when I did npt I hit the lip and I could only thread in a npt plug a turn or so.
Yes that’s the restrictor. You might try removing. The crip and press fit should hold under pressure but now the crimp is gone not sure I’d trust it. I’ve always heated it up and removed.
so in a nutshell I can just remove that entire metal ring which is the restrictor body ? That will leave 3/4” hole which I can use an adapter to fit my -6AN
Just this, I bought a eBay ninth injector hole feed to an6 drilled the regulator body deeper and tapped to 1/4npt I think I’ve done a few for costumers but it’s been along time ago so don’t remember.
Just this, I bought a eBay ninth injector hole feed to an6 drilled the regulator body deeper and tapped to 1/4npt I think I’ve done a few for costumers but it’s been along time ago so don’t remember.