UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

I made my own CAI with a K&N bolted to an elbow right after the MAF and now it idles incredibly rough, and will not stay running. It is also a throwing a code 34. Before I added the CAI the car was hard to start (two to three cranks) but once running ran great, and would crank easily once warm. I've tried unplugging the MAF and it still runs extrememly rough and will not idle. Does anyone have any ideas?



ETA: This engine is a brand new build which was running perfectly until the addition of the CAI.

8UpAFord

I'd say you hoesd up your MAF senor. Start going throw a flow chart on code 34.

UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I pulled the MAF out and sure enough two of the wires (black and black with a white stripe) had worn through grounded themselves against either the clamp holding the MAF on or the metal AC lines. I repaired the wires and still have the same condition. My question now is this, since I have more that likely fried the MAF, is it possible I damaged the ECM as well? What is the best way to test each of these? I have used the search feature and will again, but haven't found anything particularly useful.

Camaroman P

Well I have an six pairs of the y intake you can put the original intake back on it is the most efficient for the irocs it comes with the top and bottom duct for $50 give mea call and we can send it out for you 310-902-3980

UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

I don't need a new intake system, I am just hesitant to go spend $200 on a new MAF and find that I have the same problem.

Mcdamit

K&N filter.. surprise, surprise.. more airflow = more dirt..

If you have a friend with a maf car borrow his,, great way to test. If not take a trip to your local junkyard there is usually a camaro or firebird lying around.

UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

WTH does dirt have to do with grounded out wires?

purpleZ-28

quick question, just cuz i forgot. what years ran the MAF systems? and wich years ran the MAP systems? i think it was 89 that they change right?
anyway
it has been tested soooooo many times that K&N filters are harmful to your motor. as far as your MAF, try calling you local JY's. alot of them will take motors out of the cars when they come in, and they just might have a good one available. i was able to get a used oil pan pretty cheap off another TPI motor sitting at the JY.

Red Devil

'89 was the last year for the MAF, speed density started in '90. I hate K&Ns. I think I have posted two or three different test results over the years about them.

Did you just assume that you fried the MAF or have you tried troubleshooting from the top? Good state of tune? Proper fuel pressure? Relays good? etc. etc.?

UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

Well, it was running perfectly an hour before I added the CAI. Anyhow, I unplugged the MAF and ran the engine until the SES light came on the rechecked codes and got a 33. Therefore I am pretty sure I cooked the MAF. My only other concern was if I posibbly did any damage to the ECM itself. Why I wonder that, is because I read that if the MAF is bad, the engine should run better once you unplug it. Mine runs exactly the same with it plugged in or unplugged, very, very rough choppy idle (actually won't idle without help). Also, I called every JY in town and there is not one anywhere so it will have to be a new or ReMan.

As for the K&N, I have no brand loyalty there, they were just the only filter manufacturer that made a filter that fit my dimensions and I could get in town.

purpleZ-28

hmmm, a rough choopy idle that wont idle without help? sounds alot like a fuel problem, or an electrical problem. or both. so you say you unhooked the MAF when you started the car the first time after installing you CAI? and thats when it started doing this right?

Red Devil

Where did you get that line of thought from?!? Code 33 doesn't read 'Toasted MAF'. And of course you are going to throw a code if you unplug equipment and run the car. Do a few searches for some troubleshooting ideas for the MAF. Anything with MAF in the title il generally be something you want to read.

Sigh... I shudder to think you found that here, but I wouldn't be surprised. If it runs or runs better with the MAF unplugged, it generally will be a problem with the MAF circuit. That it runs the same with it plugged or unplugged it may signify that it isn't something in the MAF circuit. As I stated before, start troubleshooting from the top. You may have knocked a wire loose, a plug off, etc. You never start troubleshooting on assumptions.

UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

I got that train of thought from pages 89-90 of


I'm going with the MAF being fried because of finding the two exposed wires where the harness was mashed in between the clamp and A/C line, and from following the flow chart from that book. However, if the book is wrong please let me know ( and maybe the publisher as well). As I said in a previous post, the engine was running perfectly an hour beforehand and the MAF is the only operating hardware I touched under the hood.
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No, the MAF was plugged in the first time I started the car with the CAI, two of the wires from the MAF connector however had been smashed between the metal clamp holding the MAF on and one of the metal A/C lines exposing bare wire and I assume grounding themselves out.

Red Devil

Let me get this strait. What you got from the book was that it was ok to unplug the maf and run the car and you shouldn't get a code? If that's what the book actually says, it's wrong. Horribly wrong. Think, if you unplug the O2 and run the car, you're going to get an O2 error. I doubt they published grossly inaccurate info, rather, I think you mis-read something.

Why is it ok to assume the wires were enough to fry the MAF but not either of the 'new' relays? Have you traced what wires they are? What if they are both grounds? And if you disconnected or unplugged something inadvertantly, you won't notice until you look for it. It seems you more wanted someone to justify your position rather than get some help actually troubleshooting your problem. If that is the case...

Yes, you are correct, it's a fried MAF, go blow a wad of money on a new remanufactured piece that is likely as good as the one you are trading in for a core.

Now, as RB would say, you can go by a book or you can go by experience. Are either always right? No, but I sure do know which one is right, or follows the right path, more often.

UnionWrkr

iTrader: (2)

No, you misread. It says, after getting a code 34 to clear all codes, disconnect the MAF, run the engine at 2k rpms for 1 minunte or until SES light comes on then recheck the codes. If you get a code 33 (what I got)with the MAF unplugged "It is a faulty MAF sensor".

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

If you damage the wires in the MAF then you might as well get another one b/c that's your problem. Even on the LS1 engines, if you damage the wires then the MAF can not take the proper readings and will set codes and will run extremely rough.

pmpn

If you run the car with the MAF unplugged you will always get codes for it. Plug the sucker in, disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect battery. See if the code comes back. If it does, unplug the MAF and see if the motor runs better/ worse, yes you will get a code but the Emergency Mode will take over and estimate your air intake based on your TPS. If it runs better you have a bad MAF, if it still runs like crap you have something more to look at, possibly a MAF burnoff.

Make sure there is no debris in the MAF or on the screen, inspect the platinum wires inside the MAF and ensure they are not damaged or broken, they are extremely fragile... you can even spray carb cleaner on them and clean them with a QTip. I would definately do this before any troubleshooting or major purchases, it saved me MAF purchases on both my GTA and my LS1. Good luck.

Red Devil

UnionWrkr, I've never seen that method of troubleshooting. If you think it's right, feel free to get a new MAF, it may actually be bad, but I certainly wouldn't say 100% without testing it. As I've mentioned (I think) there are methods to test in our archives, look for Vader's name.

Yenko, he didn;t damage the MAF wire (only one in the tube), he abraided the two (iirc) ground wires in the harness. I don't think that's enough to fry the MAF. If you damage harness wires and you get improper readings, you want to fix the harness, not replace the MAF.

pmpn I don't follow the logic in your first paragraph at all, unplugged it typically doesn't run well, with a good or bad MAF unplugged. With the MAF unplugged how would either relay affect the running condition of the vehicle?!? They do not give ANY input to the ecu whatsoever!!

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

I thought he mean the wires inside.....hahaha.