I am building a new engine and thinking about going with a 383 stroker. I have a speed denstiy TPI setup with an Edelbrock high flow baseplate and runners. I realize that the TPI system is not the best for air flow but how would it do on a 383. Would it produce good power and torque?

Thank!

 

Yeah, it would. I have the same setup, and a 52 MM throttle body, aluminum heads, and a mild cam. An almost exact setup produced 403 HP @ 5000, and 530!!!! FT/LBS @ 3200 RPM. This was from the TPIS website. That is big block territory!

 

what kind of modifications would you have to do? besides heads,cam,crank etc. also what kind of MPG are you getting?

 

I used a similar cam to theirs; 213/219 duration, 112 LSA, and .480/.490 lift with 1.6 rockers. They used a roller, but I didn't so I went a touch hotter. I run 9.6 CR, with aluminum heads, so I can burn regular for crusing easy enough. I had the runners Extrude Honed, and ported the plenum myself. I'm getting 16 city and 21 highway now, but need to get my PROM reconfigured. I'm still tuning it too, so I expect more down the road. Kike I said, they used ported aluminum 'Vette heads, but I used AFR's 195, so I should be all set. I zero-decked the block, and kept the quench area tight at .038" too, so it wouldn't be octane sensitive.

 

BEing that a stroker is made to produce more torque that HP and the TPI system is designed to make High Torque numbers it woudl probably do pretty good as stated above. The only issue is its goign to start to feel like a deisel. a 383TPI motor built properly should probably be set up in a offroad vehicle.
On the otherhand the real challenge to having that in the F-body is being able to have a Tranny, rear end, and tires that can stand up to 500ft-lbs.

 

Yep, the weakest link theory...... Good point.

 

BTW, you mentioned you were rtunnign a speed density system. That is goign to require extensive tunign time... best to do it on the Dyno. I would say that TPIS should be able to set you up with a base tuen that should get you moving and driveable, but to extract every pound ft out and every MPG you will need extensive work.

Consider switchign over to a MAF system, they are just simply more flexable. THough you would still need a custom PROM.

I couldn't Imagine a 10bolt lasting behind 500+ ft-lbs for very long.

 

I would stick with the density setup and look into a WBO2 sensor to tune it. You can get a really good tune with a density and WBO2 and not have to worry about the maf system coming out of resolution. You can get some good information on tuning it in the DIY Prom section. It would be a good time to think about a different rear end too or just stay away from slicks for a while. I doubt street tires will stick enough to do any damage.

 

From what I am hearing I should stay with a 350 due to the transmission and rear end not holding up to the torque of a 383. I have a new TCI Streetfighter 700R4 and the Aussie 9-bolt. What kind of HP/Torque will the rear end and tranny hold up to? Also, what kind of rear end should I look for? I really like the idea of the 383 but a new tranny isn't really in the scope of my project.

Also, what is a WB02 sensor? As you can probably tell, all of this is new to me. This is my first car project.

I really appreciate everyone's expertise and help!!!

 

I had a 383 TF heads 219 cam , ASM Runners and edelbrock intake. It put down 323 RWHP and 424 RWTQ to the wheels. Assuming a 20% drivetrain loss with an auto thats 408 HP and 530 TQ. !!!!! I just looked at the post above about what TPIS said. Way too weird for me.


I run my stock 700R4 with shiftkit and Stock 9 bolt. Both have 87K on them. Holding up fine to 1.7 60's on MT ET Streets. (Althought I bet something is going to break soon)

 

What kind of problems have you had in getting the crank and rods in the block? When you do this is it real tough to clearence them?
I'm planning on doing about the same setup too, I got a tpis big mouth intake instead though.

 

I have not come across any major problems except for a clearance issue with the rear counterweight and the oil filter pad. I called Eagle and they commented that this is normal and I needed to grind away .070" of the block. I have also read that it takes a special oil pan and gasket as well. I was fortunate to get a block with most of the clearancing already complete, so I am probably not the best person to ask. However, from what I have read and seen it is not very hard to do.

I can post pictures if you would like to see the contact points and the previous clearancing.

Hopefully that helps a little......

 

You know that would be awesome
Iv'e been researching this 383 idea for some time now and I'm about ready to do it.

 

No problem! I will be home in about 2-3 hours and I will post them. Hopefully they help you!

 

A Wide Band Oxygen sensor. This sensor has the ability to read air fuel ratios richer or leaner than 14.7 (stoichiometric). A needed tool when tuning your WOT AFR, and/or PE tables.

 

I'll be looking foward to it.
Thanks
Mike-

 

I am having trouble uploading pics due to their size. I am going to see if I can reduce the quality. If you do not see anything tonight than I will take new pics and upload them over the weekend.

 

I also did a 383,and while I have no pics...
A dremmel and ALOT of time clearing the webs for the crank.
Just have to do it one side at a time.
And have a spray bottle with clean oil and lots of rags to wipe off filings...

 

As far as the gasket, I used the standard one-piece rubber one from Mr. Gasket for a SBC. It worked just fine, and doesn't come loose or leak!

 

Sweet!
The build doesn't sound to hard to do. I hate to rob your thread again
but what is the advantage from 5.7 rods to 6.0?
Longer stoke obviously but what else? Beacuse I'm about ready to buy a crank and rods for my build.
Mike

 

it will keep heat down and the longer rod means that it is easyer on your crank(better for higher rpms)
on a tpi motor it isnot that big of a diff. but it will keep the temp down.

 

Just out of curiousity, how goes the 0.3" long rod keep the heat down? I have never heard that before and since heat kills engines I may go ahead and buy the 6" rods. I just want to make sure and do my build right the first time and have an engine that lasts for a long time.

TPIwrangler, I am still trying to get pics. I hope to have some for you tomorrow. Does anyone know of a way to reduce the file size?

 

I would imagine other then strenght the H beams rods disapate heat better then regular I beam rods, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

I believe you can reduce the file by importing it to paint and do it there, or send them to me at elderhumpherys@yahoo.com and I'll do it for ya with adobe photoshop and send them back to you

 

iam not sure about that, but i know there is a diff in strength.the H beam is stronger. in most cases it also depends on the metal used in the forging.

as far as the heat, i read it out of gmhightechperformance mag i dont remember the exact reson for it but i remember they were atomit about runnign with a 6'' rod for any highperformance aplication.
i think it had something to do with the stroke
i look for the mag, if i find it ill post it.