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gutting air box, and i have a question

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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 02:08 PM
  #1  
BlueZee28's Avatar
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From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
gutting air box, and i have a question

my car will run a bit hotter than normal if i gut the air box correct? or is this just a myth. i suppose i could get a 160* thermo if it's indeed true. another question: when gutting it, do you just simply use a razor blade and cut off the inside "fin" looking things?
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #2  
fireball451's Avatar
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From: Gray, TN
Car: 91 Z28, 91 Z28, 92 Z28
Engine: LB9, LB9, L98
Transmission: T5, T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42, 3:42, 3:23
Why would it run hotter?
I used to take the baffles out and cut more holes below the originals.
Noe, I've been cutting straight around the box from the top of the holes.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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BlueZee28's Avatar
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From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
the reason i've heard it runs hotter is becauase the fins are to deflect incoming air into the radiator
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
It will run slightly hotter if you redirect the fog light ducts to your intake. My fog lights were out, and all that air went directly to my radiator, and now it goes to the intake.

I went from about 180* to 200*, although lately it has been hotter. Ive been safe though because I rigged a switch to turn the fans on in the drivers seat. I leave em on all the time.

Bottomline, expect a slight increase.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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87TPI350KID's Avatar
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
I say just gut the big obstructions in the box and leave the rest alone. The few hp you gain from it is not worth running hotter. TPI cars run HOT form teh factory anyway.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 12:50 AM
  #6  
IROCThe5.7L's Avatar
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Yea, just gut the box and leave the rest. Still will be way better than stock, and you don't have to worry about worse cooling.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 01:48 AM
  #7  
Daniel U's Avatar
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From: SLO County, CA.
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
I didn't notice a temp. increase when I did mine, but mines run hot despite the Griffin alum. Radiator. and 3" cowl hood. I have my dual fans coming on @ 195 now (with some minor prom adj.), and that keeps things right where I want.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 09:16 AM
  #8  
fireball451's Avatar
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From: Gray, TN
Car: 91 Z28, 91 Z28, 92 Z28
Engine: LB9, LB9, L98
Transmission: T5, T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42, 3:42, 3:23
Mine does not run any hotter.
The only way it could would be as mentioned.
The ram air boxes would take air intended to go to the radiator.
There is a penel below the air box that helps direct air to the radiator.
If you mess with it, it could make it run a little hotter.
Just gutting the air box will not have any effect.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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BlueZee28's Avatar
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From: O'Fallon, MO
Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
cool...i think i'm just gonna take all the crap out of the box itself and leave the tunnels for the radiator alone...taht's the part i was worried about anyways...thanks for the help guys!
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