Brisk

iTrader: (25)

I did a search and didn't find what I was looking for.

I see some people list in their signatures or vbgarage that they have 'all free mods'. What exactly are these mods?

Here is what I've come up with;

- advance timing
- throttle body coolant bypass
- remove air inlet/splash guards
- remove/gut smog equipment & catalytic converter
- adjust fuel pressure

and perhaps;

- cut springs for a lowering effect/handling
- alter cooling fan for lower operating temps
- properly gap plugs
- proper tire inflation
- one could also make their own ram air or cold air intake (free?)


But really, what else is there? Lets make a list of free mods, inquiring minds want to know!

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Free mods are anything you don't pay for obviously. Everything you listed plus porting your own intake, CAI (depending on type) etc. You've pretty much named what is called "free mods".

Brisk

iTrader: (25)

yes I know what free mods are.. I'm just trying to make a definitive list of all of them.

Good points, a few I forgot;

- porting intake
- porting plenum
- porting runners
- porting heads
- gasket matching everything
- weight reduction (rear seat delete, etc)

Boosted_SS

I WOULD NEVER AND I'LL REPEAT THAT SINCE IT NEEDS TO BE REPEATED HERE...NEVER CUT MY SPRINGS TO IMPROVE HANDLING OR PERFORMANCE!! THAT'S ASKING FOR AN ACCIDENT AND PROBLEMS!

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Relax with the caps dude...

Cutting springs is up to the owner, it's just not what you would do to your car. He's just asking for a list of Free mods.

ewwewwnotme

Another is taking the wire mesh from infront and behind your MAF. It doesnt do much but every little bit helps in the long run.

Boosted_SS

this is a safety issue not just an opinion!!

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Be it as it may, LOTS of people do it to their cars. Doesn't mean they go out to race tracks everyday. I have a friend that uses his car with chopped springs everyday, has no problems.

Boosted_SS

tell me what kinda car so i can avoid it if i see it if i ever go to Canada. and i would actually bet that if it was discovered during the state inspection of the car (i don't know if they do this in Canada but most states do this) it would fail inspection and they would force you to replace them.

88trans_am_gta

actually, boosted ss is right. cutting the springs is a bad idea. you decrease the length of the spring causing it to deflect less, which yes, it can cause a harsher ride which some people may be looking for, but is a poor way of doing it. personally, id do it the right way and spend the money to buy a set of lowering springs.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

First off it is not unsafe if done properly. Thanks for your opinion though.

I have 4 cut springs and they ride great. Do a search before blurting out misconceptions please. When you do a search you will see that there are alot of people who say they are against it and alot who say they aren't. When you see people who do test, the conclusion is always it is safe to do if done properly. If you are against it please provide proof on why it is dangerous if cut in a proper manner? If not then perhaps we should get back on topic.

Gallileo60

Over the years ive know alot of people that cut or modded their own springs...What do you think people did before there was a part made for everything??? You did it yourself...From chopping the top to lowering the car to making your own intake....It all used to be done at home, or at the shop....Im not saying ive done it, because I have grown up with the "Plug and play" mentality that we all have now days...the true hot rod pioneers did it all..There were no lowering kits, or a jillion cams, and intakes..now you just bolt it on, and go.Its all money now to go fast, but you used to have to think, and do it yourself...Kudos to those who dont follow the pack, and do it their selves..It has not always been that way.Tom

Boosted_SS

let me simply ask both of you one question...

if you CUT your springs and took your car to get a state safety inspection done and the mechanic discovered that the springs were CUT do you think it would pass inspection?

Oh wait i can answer that because when i was a mechanic working my way through college i was an inspection mechanic...the answer is flat out NO IT WOULD FAIL! when the springs are cut the most likely won;t rest against the mounts the way they are supposed to and you run the risk of the spring rotating or popping loose and puncturing your tire (what kind of ciaos would that cause at 70MPH on the highway?) or if it's a rear spring it could pop off all together. i have seen both of those examples happen! come on guys don't treat your cars like they are Honduh's we don't have a v-tack under the hood we have a SBC. IMO cutting the springs is just plain crazy! Plus you both are saying "if they are done correctly they are OK!" my response to that is this...if someone is so concerned about lowering their car and can't afford to get the $200 springs needed to do it properly do you honestly think they will take the time to do it properly or spend the money for someone to do it properly for them? yes there are some who may but my bet is that it will be done half assed (probably a grinder to the springs in any random spot and hope it works) and done improperly.

-end rant-

Bluejae

Ok...getting past the cut springs debate. My wife has always done the vrooom vroooom mod. In other words her philosophy is if your car sounds fast then it's fast. Other than what has been listed I can't say I know any others.

Gallileo60

Dude, im not gonna argue about the right, or wrong of spring cutting, you do what you want, and I (If I wanted to) will do what I want....I was not talking about cutting them enough for them to pop out, and as far as inspection...Im not sure the inspector has ever looked at my springs....And you cut them so they sit just as they always did......Tom
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I think the free mod's refers to the TBI mods also, and aircleaner mods.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

Do not let the ignorance of others bother you.

Vader

Free mods?

I'm what you might call a "cheap date" but I wouldn't say "free."

Ooooh... I see.

IMO, the only proper way to alter the height is with spindles, or you'll be trying a whole lot of "repairs" to get the toe on turns, bump/steer, and caster back where you might want them. As soon as the lower control arm starts to swing out a little more, the tie rod angles change, and the struts take on a different angle, all bets are off for alignment and handling. But doing it "properly" isn't "free," so I digress.

If you have the equipment, you could also add:

• PROM tuning;
• Boxed rear LCAs;
• STB and "Wonder Bar" installation;
• SFCs;
• Synthetic lubricants;
• Relocated MAT (S/D cars);
• 180º thermostat;
• Adjustable FPR conversion;
• Reconnecting the SMOG equipment;
• Cut back spark plug side electrodes;
• Preloading hydraulic lifters to ¼ turn;
• TFT MAF (when the de-screened one fails to report correctly at idle and mid-range);
• Extended front air dam;
• Probably several others I cannot recall.

There are a lot more which aren't really "free" but will involve a minimal cost. There is an entire section on this site with a fairly complete list.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

Just to make sure we are all on the same page. Regardless whether or not you cut your springs or get lowering springs the end result is the same when it comes to alignments and whatnot. To effectively lower your car using the right geometry you are right... lowering spindles.

Lowering springs are not a perfect solution and by using them you must compensate with other parts. Same with cut springs.



Tuning is the number one free mod period.

Driving your car off the cliff is a cheap way to get your car to do a 10 second quarter, but it is a little risky.

Vader

It's pretty tough to verify that with a second run, too.

90 white Z

Hey vader: Anymore info on the MAT relocation? link possibly, im interested

DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

umm...TFT? what's that?

1987ZTPI

I'm just wondering how will pre-loading the lifters to 1/4 turn make you gain power aren't they set at 1 full turn pre-load from the factory. and what does TFT MAF mean i kno sumthing with ur mass air sensor.

Gallileo60

Yes please explain the lifter adjustment thing??? will that in effect cause the valves to open more??? Dont think i've ever tried this trick before, also never had a roller motor...Thanks for the explanation, Tom

nvr2fast

you are so full of shiTT mechanic working your way through colage if u were a mechanic why wud u be going through colage still so thats bull shitt and i personaly drive a chevy halfton truck with spindles and cut springs and i have never had a problem with harch ride and it soo pased safty and its 3 inches of the ground cutting the springs is wy better than heating them like some people do and where do you live in canada cause i now in my town alot of the static veichels have cut springs caus lowering springs dont go lowenough for some people you ever think of that? my springs have like a 5inch drop and i am still far from the bumpstops and rides like a cadilac!!!
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lol and my caster and camber are fine and it hardly bumpsteers i used to more at stock hight

DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

Obviously English is your second language. You can buy lowering springs in a variety of ride heights. Which model Cadillac does your pick up ride like?

We should have an idiot translation tool on this site or something.

Way to start it off on TGO with that first post of yours. I'm sure everyones going to just love you.


Back on topic, another free mod for 85-90 Camaro's would be to make the hood louvers functional. It won't help cooling much but it would dramatically help reduce under hood temperatures and front end lift at high speeds.
Functional hood louvers
Also a custom "cold/ram air intake for Camaro's
Fog light cold air induction

Gallileo60

nvr2fast please learn to spell..Trying to read your post gave me a headache...Thanks.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Here ya go...www.austinthirdgen.org

His is a MAP car, and I did it to my MAF car, just after the MAF sensor. Of course, I have no screens, so it isn't like the screens are protecting the sensor, in any way.

DBLTKE

iTrader: (1)

I tried to come up with a complete compiled list of all the "free" mods that I could think of and combine them with suggestions from others

- Throttle Body Coolant bypass
- advance timing
- descreen MAF
- remove AIR pump and associated parts (weight saving)
- replace cat with test pipe/s (weight saving)
- manual fan switch
- lower tire pressure for drag racing
- ice the intake in staging lanes
- run strait water (no antifreeze) if drag racing (better heat transfer)
- make hood louvers/blisters functional for heat extraction and less front end lift
- make sure TPS voltage is spot on
- bump up the fuel pressure
- adjust camber if track or autocross racing
- making a torque converter lock up switch
- installing a custom rear frame brace.
- siamesing TPI intake runners
- replace steel drive shaft with aluminum drive shaft
- home made sub frame connectors
- Porting and siamesing of TPI intake base, and plenum
- Head porting
- PROM tuning
- Boxed rear LCAs
- Synthetic lubricants
- Relocated MAT (S/D cars)
- 180º thermostat
- Cut back spark plug side electrodes
- Preloading hydraulic lifters to ¼ turn
- TFT MAF (when the de-screened one fails to report correctly at idle and mid-range)
- Extended front air dam
- make a front under tray and rear diffuser if track racing
- home made canards and splitters for track racing.
- home made headlight covers for camaros (aerodynamics)
- swapping to firebird's "aero" spoiler (the only one that actually adds down force)
- swapping to firebird front end (less cross sectional width, less drag)
- I've heard of gutting the doors to save weight
- converting to the IROC's quick ratio steering box
- converting to disk brake rear end with 3.42's (lighter than drums and that gearing is pretty much the best for TPI)

- Making your own high flow TPI dual snorkel intake lid:
Here

- and making your own ram air induction through the fog light holes:
Here

- custom brake ducting for track racing

- Weight reduction would be another big one.

- I don't know about thirdgen Camaro's, and I'm too lazy to search, but I Know that in my '80 280ZX they have really heavy bumpers (not the bumper covers mind you) that weigh in at about 15-20 lbs each and you could ditch them and just bolt the cover back on.

- switching to lexan T-tops would surely lose a couple of lbs.

- deleting the A/C and getting rid of all the pump, pulley, hoses and tubes associated with it would decrease parasitic loss and a save a couple lbs from the front of the car.

- relocating the battery to the rear of the car. If you do this and want to be able to ever race you car at a drag strip you would need to bolt battery down so it cannot move, then enclose it in a battery box that is vented to the exterior of the car. either one that is made out of aluminum or a Moroso plastic battery box (Moroso is the only SFI approved plastic battery box. Lastly you would need to have some sort of power cut off switch that is located at the rear exterior of the car and is clearly labeled. It would need to cut off all power to vehicle and needs to be wired to the alternator.

- disconnecting the sway bar if you go drag racing, or you can make your own "wonder bar" if you like handling

- remove rear seats
- delete carpeting
- remove spare and jack
- remove sound deadener from under hood.
- swap to 82-84 fiberglass hood
- paint car red (lightest paint theoretically)
- proper TV/detent cable adjustments

I realize that many of these are a bit extreme and not exactly free, but if swapping parts then you could sell originals and homemade parts would be technically free minus the cost of supplies.

I may have missed or forgotten something. If so, say something and I'll edit this post.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

Pull out the seal at the back of the hood, this allows hot air to be pulled from the engine bay.

Do all of the bolt OFFS you can live with, short belt the car (not exactly free but VERY helpful the belt should be 77.5in it will delete the power steering and AC).

Stick a nickle in the cap of the FPR (this cost a nickle; you can use a penny if you're real cheap).

Run your engine 1 quart low on oil (free windage tray).

I know there're a few more I'm forgetting right now if I think of them later I'll add them.

fitbmxseries1

Please explain this one to me.
dont know what the FPR is lol

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

Fuel Pressure Regulator, this is a cheap 5psi fuel pressure bump. If you take the security torx bits out from around the fuel pressure regulator cap it will come out, there will be a diaphragm with a spring and plunger then the cap, put a nickle or penny in the cap and reinstall.
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Take out the front Sway Bar.

Run a set of bolts through your lower control arms (some are already drilled for this if not grap the drill and put at least 1 bolt in the center from side to side, it makes them more rigid).

Drill a small hole in the perimeter of your thermostat.

Drill some small holes in the side of your distributor cap (this helps a TON if you have an MSD box).

CarterCarbureto

iTrader: (1)

ow ow ow ow ow ow it hurts idiot translator 101 lmao

sorry I had to ^^

nape

iTrader: (1)

Wrong. This works when the car is sitting, but packs air into the engine bay at speed.

The only way that has a possibility of working is with a 1"+ wicker at the back of the hood.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

*sigh* it's free I did it and didn't complain. If it has any real effect I can't say but what do you mean by a wicker? I'm confused.

nape

iTrader: (1)

Like this: http://gallery.noid.org/gallery/album11/top?full=1

Some people call it a wicker bill. It's job is to create a high pressure zone in front of itself, so that the base of the windshield is a low pressure zone. Normally, the air would hit the windshield without encountering any resistance and the high pressure zone would form at the base.

Rick Routzahn

iTrader: (1)

Is there a list of mods you can do that dont cost much/are very little involved?

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

i think all the mods listed don't cost much, but what we need is somebody to go down that list and explain what is each of the mods do and how to do it. So far I've been trying google but it didn't work for some

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Boosted_SS, I realize times have changed and I`m not looking to argue with you but back "in the day", `50`s, `60`s, cutting the springs were about the only way to lower our rides. Like anything else, you have to know what you are doing and do the job correctly. Back before NHRA had many rules, a friend built a roll cage out of muffler tubing for a fuel altered he was building to save some weight. Unfortunately, the driver, his best friend, lost control of the car and hit a telephone pole and the car climbed the pole 20 feet. It killed the driver, totaled the car and my friend who built the car was banished from all NHRA events for life. One of the guys he used to work with off and on was Austin Coyle, John Forces crew chief. The drag strip was Lyons, the only strip I can remember that had telephone poles down 1 side of the track. How times have changed.

RED86Z28

Some of what I have read here is crap. Tampering with calibrated sensors and removing emission and comfort equipment is a good way to take a nice car and begin to ruin it.

The coolant bypass and ignition timing are easy and should give you a little bit.

Most of the free mods are BS. You get what you pay for.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

RED86Z28 These mods aren't BS. How fast do you go exactly? We really didn't start this thread up to rate these mods, we're just listing them. The mods listed here work if you don't believe that, we really don't care. What exactly are you saying is BS and why? As for "You get what you pay for" I counter that with "Buyer Beware" I know of about 100 "mods" you could pay for on your car that would do jack. Just figured I would be the first to tell you that if these mods didn't work they wouldn't last long on this site.

RED86Z28

Who are you to call me an idiot when your telling guys to drill a little hole in their thermostat for power. Thats not going to do anything for power. Descreening a MAF only ruins its accuracy. Removing the A/C or power steering gains you some power but makes a still slow car uncomfortable. You do get what you pay for. Real modifications like cams, heads, exhaust, porting and reprogramed ecms cost money.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

actually i would put reprograming to the free mods because with $150 worth of equipment you can do it your self, and after the first one the rest are free

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

WTF are you talking about, drilling the small hole is a free mod that keeps hot spots out of the heads not a direct power adder. This is about FREE MODS not just horsepower mods. Calling these mods BS proves you don't have experience with these mods, The only thing I've mentioned that might not help may be the cowl seal mod and it immediatly got pointed out. Apparently you missed the point of this entire thread. Exactly how many of these mods have you tried again? Oh yeah and what did your stock TPI car run?

** Sorry about the rudeness of the earlier post I read it later and thought "wow that sounded harsh" I've edited it out to be much less rude **

RED86Z28

There is no point on drilling a thermostat to prevent hot spots in a TPI motor because you have the constant circulation from the manifold through the heater core to the radiator. If you look in my first post I said some of the mods were crap, not everything. When I was younger I tried many of the free mods listed here on a truck and found out that all I was doing was wasting my time and in some cases hurting overall operation. When you remove emission equipment like AIR and EGR you mess with your part throttle fueling. I have no idea what my car would have run stock. Im not really into the track.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

if you tried the free mods could you do a write up on what each one of them did for you?

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

My TPI ran about 20 degrees cooler with the small hole drilled in the T stat and I have only the heater, there's no circulation until the T stat opens. This could be how I rigged up my coolant lines when I did the TPI swap but it helped, it's free, it causes NO ill effect and I'll continue to do it just in case. I'm sorry about your truck but if you had drivability issues from removing the emissions equipment you did something wrong. I have a 1991 S10 that had all of the equipment removed when I recieved it, and I removed the smog equipment from my old L03 when I had it. The TPI engine I have has no smog equipment (never did from the day I bought it), and it ran just fine with the stock prom. As a testament to free mods, my car used to run 13.9's, I ported the base and plenum *my favorite free mod* and the car went 13.5's. Fuel pressure is known to help ALOT on our cars, wiring the fans to a switch is free and helps alot on our cooling challenged cars. Most of these mods in fact DO help, I've actually been helping a local guy do them to a 1985 camaro with the same exact sucess I had on my car. One big thing to keep in mind is that the TPI cars have pretty smart computers that compensate and adjust themselves to your mods.

ic8ntsurf

[quote=1991CamaroRslow;3429564] Stick a nickle in the cap of the FPR (this cost a nickle; you can use a penny if you're real cheap).
[quote]


I think I will just swipe a nickel-sized metal slug from work!

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I'm a BIG fan of unplugging the knock sensor on MAF cars.. deff worth it.

Also the hole on the t-stat helps keep air pockets from forming there and makes the t-stat open more consistantly at the correct temp.

WhiteIrocZ

iTrader: (3)

I was under the impression that unplugging the knock sensor would infact retard the timing as if the engine was spark knocking, is that not the case???

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

No it won't. If the computer cant c any Knock it won't pull out any lead.
You do have to pay attention to the motor tho.
My car (and most TPIs) got false knock all the time.
I have had it unplugged 4 the last 137,000 out of 235,000 miles. ) 0 problems at all.
Plus it runns better at the track.