Tonight I went to the garage to check out the injectors.
The values on the injectors where fine tonight : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/accelohm.htm

Started the car up. Let it run for a while, runned pretty good, little shaky sometimes, almost like
missfire... some "bumps" in the sparks.. Runned the car and it went in to closed loop and gave
it a little throttle.. some knock retard... after 8 minutes of logging , it went out of closed loop
I really dont know why (bought a new o2 sensor last summer) Cars runs a little worse..
little shaky, some extra "puffs" from the exhuast..fuelpressure stays at 34~36PSI on idle.
and vacuum holding around 20 stady (so it seems fine ?!) The logg from TTS Datamaster you will
find here (engine got to running temp) : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z2...b08-ANYH_8.rar

Ive set a password to it : irocztts (just to keep it alittle safe)

Closing down the car and it losing / dropping fuelpressure at once (maybe 30 secs) its down
do 0... not good... I turn the key and the fuelpump builds up pressure to ~32PSI and then drops it
down to about 10 PSI... (is there a leaky injectors involved?!) Thougt of trying to start
it to see if its flooded but whem I turn the ignition key the starter only clicks (like metall to metall)
The sound is coming from the starter and it pretty loud (I bought a new starter, powerstarter last summer,
I installed it correctly with advice from the company that sold it)
When Im trying to start it and the starter just clicks, the BRAKE light is coming on..
Turning of the ignition and the fuelpressure is dropping to ~2PSI trying to start again
the pressure goes up to ~20PSI and then tries to turn the key, only the metall click from
the starter... and when I turn off the ignition the pressure drops to ~1PSI....

Under the logfile time ~15min (i think it was) it holding nice stable fuelpressure 34/36 PSI at idle
When im giving throttle the pressure get higher (as it should when the vacuum changing) and
when I let go of the thottle the pressure goes back to ~34PSI... (cannot be the fuelpump then if the pressure
is fine when the engine is running?!)

If the injectors is leaking.. could they make the starter not to turn around ?! dont think so or ?

Starter is new, correctly installed (not heat related problem, because the exhaust didnt get so hot tonight)
all the cables are fine, no corrosion or so...

Any ideés of what the problem can be ?!

Had the same problem for 1˝ year ago, Ive changed this stuff since that:

ECM
injectors (accel 23lbs)
Sparkplugs, sparkplugs wires.
Rotor / distributorcap
Fuelfilter
Air filter
New PROM (for the larger injectors)
Checked VATS
Charged the battery (exide maxxima new)
New oilpressure unit (the one that can controll fuelpump)
PCV Valce
New TPS
New o2 sensor
MSD blaster coil
New starter (hitatchi powerstarter)
New IAC..

please help me out here...

 

someone that have more ideés of what causing this problem...?!

Will go to the garage today and remove the vacuum hose from FPR and turn the key to see if fuel comes out.. if non getting out is the FPR working as it should then ?!

really out of ideas now... dont feeling too good. had problems for 2 years now... and still the same problems accour....

 

Sounds to me like the fuel pump is going south what kind of pressure do you have with the car running with the vacuum line off of the regulator.

 

The fuelpressure with the vaccuum off is like ~43/44PSI..

The strange thing is, I went to the garage today and checked if the FPR was leaking fuel out of the vacuum line. NO it didnt.... maybe I need to change it anyway... becuase the fuelpressure does not hold when the engine is off...
when engine is idling its on ~35PSI and when giving throttle it goes up to about ~43PSI maybe...

I tried to start it, just that click from the starter comes and BRAKE light goes on... I thought maybe I´ll try to push the brake and start it. just because the BRAKE light is on... I push the brake pedal and turn the key, the car starts right up... strange..

why did I have to push the brake pedal .. logged for a while and turned off the car, changed prom and tried to start it WITHOUT holding brake, and it starts now without brake pedal down...

Why any ideas of why I had to push the brakepedal to make it start ?!

 

Sounds like your starter is going bad. The brake pedal thing was just coincidence.
Also sounds like your fuel pressure regulator could be bad. There's a fuel pump test port somewhere under your hood that you can apply 12 volts to. While doing that start pinching, with pliers, your fuel return line. Watch what the fuel pressure does while doing this. It should go up. Don't go above 60psi.
Your fuel pump itself is fine.

 

the starter is bad ? I bought a new Hitatchi ministarter in september 2007..
how can it be bad ??... installe it correctly with advice from the company that sold it..

how do you mean with : "here's a fuel pump test port somewhere under your hood that you can apply 12 volts to. While doing that start pinching, with pliers, your fuel return line. Watch what the fuel pressure does while doing this. It should go up. Don't go above 60psi."

If I buy this FPR : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=HLY-512-501

Is everything included in that, I get a completly new regulator with new diaphram and everything ?

so it was just a coincidence that the engine turned over when I pushed the brakepedal.. But why is the BRAKE light coming on when the starter is not able to turn at all ? thats the stranges thing..

and WHY is it going in and out of Closed loop. I installed a new o2 sensor. is it bad again ? installed it last year (2007)....

 

I've bought parts that were bad right off the shelf. We're saying that you need to test the starter but that it's most likely bad.
The test port on my bird is located at the firewall on the driver's side. I've heard of them being in different places though.
That AFPR will have everything needed. But you may not need a new regulator. Hence the test.
The brake light typically comes on when it senses a differential in pressure between the front and rear brakes. Check you fluid and bleed.
Typically closed loop is controlled by the EGR and the coolant temp sensor. Since it seems you have access to a scan tool, you should watch your coolant temps when the car is cylcing from open to closed and back.

 

The starter is fine, Ive checked it by connecting it directly to power source. turns over directly. so the starter is fine..

starting to think of the ignition switch my friend had to change it because it was bad.. maybe its that , this one : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

maybe its that one thats making all my problem ?

FPR i will check if its broken..

The temperature is fine and all the values are good when its cycling in and out of closed loop.. or all values exept o2 sensor only readnin 0.100 to 0.400 mv thats wrong shall be between 0.200 to 0.800 and constantly change...

 

Tried to check the FPR today.

turned on the key and pressure build up, closed the ignition at 44PSI (max pressure) and squeezed the INLET line, nothing really happened, the pressure dropped alittle bit slower but not much..

Turned the key again and pressure builds up to 44PSI and closed, tried to squeeze the RETURN line and I squeezed with all my power and the pressure dropping stopped, let go of the squeeze and pressure drops, squeezed again and pressure dropp stopped..

Tried to squeeze a little little bit and turned the key while holding little squeeze on the return line pressure jumped up to ~65PSI and I turned off the ignition and let go of the return line. pressure dropped to ~44PSI and stopped there without im squeezing.. strange that now its holding much better pressure still dropping and when I squeeze the RETURN line its stop dropping,
Then its the FPR right ? it couldnt be the fuelpump then...

I tried to turn the key alot of times, and the pressure builds up everytime, and now its holding much better since the peak at 65PSI... but still the FPR would be bad... right, beacuse its stop dropping when I squeeze the RETURN line..

and I tried to start the car, and the starter just clicked seems like it dosent get any power, the voltage only drops from 12.34V to 11.84V so maybe its this ignition switch thats broken : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...930+4294840138

 

Your fuel pump itself is fine. That's what you just tested.
Your injectors could be leaking or your regulator is bad. The only way to see if your injectors are leaking would be to tear the top part of your engine off so that you could elevate the fuel rail while the pressure is built up. You would then look for any fuel leakage.
What voltage are you getting at the starter when you try to start the car? Cables do go bad on the inside.
It could be your ignition switch as well.

 

I think its the FPR thats bad not the injectors becuase it would smell alot of fuel if they are leaking that much fuel into the engine, I pulled 1 sparkplug out and it was dry (cylinder 1).. My guess id going for the FPR just because the pressure drop stops when Im pushing the return line or else the pressure had to continue to drop when I stopped the return and inlet .. right ? should it drop then all the time.. and now after the peak of pressure its seems to holding pressure better ..

I will buy this one and try : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=HLY-512-501

and also I will change the ign. switch.

didtne reach the starter the voltage was over the battery.

 

yesterday I went to the store that sold the exide maxxima battery, left it there and they will check the health of it. If it comes back good,

Would it be the starter thats broken then ? even if its new and worked well for a while ?..

Got the ignition switch yesterday to, will try to change it and see how it works out..

this is the sound when im turning the key : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/rep/sound/starter1.wav

 

It's your starter, the solenoid is working, that is what you are hearing click. Just go buy an LT1 starter. And I would go with the FPR get a good adjustable one, should be good to go then.

 

I bought an Hitatchi ministarter 1,4 kW and I bought an Holley FPR : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku