Cambridge205

I was checking the grounds to my ECM and I decided to look at the ECM part number because the person who owned my car before me was a stupid kid, I was a kid but I wasn't stupid.

Anyways its an remanufactured ECM by Delphi and the part number is 16198445 shouldn't the last 3 numbers of the # be 165? and the memcal I think thats what you call it, says Delco APYU3516 I think the memcal is correct. But I don't think the ECM is correct.

I tried searching for that ECM part number and found a few things but they where unanswered questions. Could this be the cause of my car dieing randomly?

Ward

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the engine would run at all with the wrong ECM, and I'm not 100% sure the plugs are the same between different ECMs. On the MAF vs speed density ECMs, there are several key differences in which pin does what, and I'd be willing to bet other ECMs are the same way. The delphi part number may be something different, are there no other numbers or stickers on the ECM anywhere? My ECM had been rebuilt, and it still turned out to be not working correctly (bad prom socket), so I wouldn't rule out other ECM related problems.

Cambridge205

Thats the only number on it other than some bar code numbers and stuff. I just learned 445 ECM will work just like the 165 ECM, I guess they are almost the same ECM. However I will be going back to the 165 if this ECM needs replacing.

I guess this post should have been posted in the electronics forum. But I have one more question. one time my primary fan didn't turn on when I jumped the ALDL A B terminals. I checked the ground on the relay and it was reading real high around 43 ohms. After that I checked the wire by its self, and it's resistance read .3 ohms so that was fine. I'm guessing the ECM isn't grounding it right. I already looked at the ECM grounds and they turned out okay the highest I got was .5 ohms. Is there something wrong with my ECM?

pandin

Mass Air 1986, 87, 88, and 89. ECM #'s 1227165, 16198259, and 16198445.

For 1227165
Replaced by 16198259, & ALSO by 16198445, for
87-91ST trucks, M vans, and others with LN8 or L38 engines.

Chevrolet CORVETTE 1989 ECU ECM ECC, 16198445
Chevrolet S10 BLAZER 1989 ECU ECM ECC, 16198445
Gmc S15 PICKUP 1988 ECU ECM ECC, 16198445
Chevrolet S10 BLAZER 1987 ECU ECM ECC, 16198445
Buick SKYHAWK 1986 ECU ECM ECC, 16198445

These are all the same ECM (functionally) and there are others (newer, updated). It is like running windows (your memcal) on a Pentium 3,4,or 5 (your ECM)

Different hardware same software. The higher numbers are actually better (more updated). 165's were bad for cracked solder joints (intermittent troubles).

I have different numbered ECM's (all 165 family) no difference.

A high ohm ground is more likely a corroded/dirty connection. Unplug and plug will usually help. Look for green or white powder. Use an anti-corrosion type grease.

Cambridge205

Cool, that helps a lot!
So what are the benefits on having a newer, more updated ecm? Other than intermittent troubles that 165 had?
Is their any better or newer ECM after 445? That will work in my car?

I know on the ecm side their is no corrosion and I think the relay side doesn't have any too but I'll look more in to the relay side. It was really hard to get a reading off the relay side and that might have something to do with it.

I'm thinking about making an aldl cable for my car they seem simple to make. But I just found out I have to put a 10K resistor in the A B terminals to make it spit info out faster than take it out and they were talking about the 165 ecm. Do I have to do that with the 445 ecm?

Auttobot1

I was interested to about the digital gauges ECM. Do someone have the diagram of connections?

Cambridge205

I don't know if this is what your looking for. But this is what I used and it helped a lot!

mgil30

I have a 1994 Firebird that was rebuilt and modified and well let me stop there because this car upsets me... I am used to OLD School 350 and this Lt1 ECM BS. is crazy. So here is what I have done... to my lawn dart...
1994 Pontiac Firebird


Lt1 bored .030; the cam is a comp cam 230/236; Pace Setter Long Tube Headers; many MODs. Only 200 miles on Engine, 90,000 on body.


Pistons = .030
Rings = .030
Rods= .010
Main = .010
Cam specs
.510 INTAKE LIFT / DUR.@.050 .230
.520 EXHAUST LIFT / DUR. @.050 .236

Heads
Bolts
3 Angel valve job
Valves reseated
Double Springs


*New Starter
*Summit Lifter
*Seal Push Rods
*Stock Rockers
*Timing Chain Kit
*Oil Pump ¾
Crank
Gaskets & Seals
30lb. Injectors


Transmission
2200 Stall Converter
New Seals and filter
Viper Alarm system installed 2005
2-controllers
2- keys
K&N Filter and tube



This thing starts up fine runs rough smokes (to much gas) smells like fuel in exhaust. So I would say with the modifications I could get the ECM programmed. Well I purchased the darn Interface Cable and downloaded the program from tunercat website... and decided I was not smart enough to deal with the programming because I could not get the darn car to register on the program. So I gave up and now it sits there like a stump in the road. I have over 8000 into the car and would like to sell it for 5500. Or get someone to FIX MY BIG MISTAKE.

thunder85

iTrader: (1)

mgil30... i would recommend posting your own thread man... i have seen where you are posting within other threads, and think you will get better results and views if you make your own.

on a side note, your injectors are too large to not have the ecm reprogrammed. your stock prom has the injector constant set for 22lb injectors, and those are pouring at a 30lb rate which will give you a VERY rich condition. if you have an afpr, i recommend at least turning it down to try to compensate for the over large injectors.