About a month ago the car seemed like it was idling a bit rough. When I went to accelerate the RPMs jumped up and down between 1000-1500, then it stalled out. It hasn't stalled since but the car feels weak and shaky around 600-1000 RPM. Anything above 1500 feels just fine, full power and no issues. I feel it the most when accelerating from a stop light or stop sign. New spark plugs and wires were installed 3 months ago, but besides that no other work has been done. I was thinking to either check the TV cable for issues or buying some additive to try to clean the injectors. Any sense behind those two ideas?.....

EDIT: No engine light, but I haven't checked for any hidden codes yet.

 

Update: I was just driving home from the store, and the RPMs dropped quickly. No loud sounds, smoke or anything. I tried to restart it and it just chugs and struggles to stay above 500 RPM. If I push the gas at all it stalls within seconds. I put a gallon of gas in, just in case it was empty by chance but that didn't help. What is going on???

 

check your fuel pressure,if its low check your fuel filter,if the filter is clear your pump may be dieing.it could be a bad injector or two,especially if its acting up only at low rpm then smoothing out has you increase throttle,i just replaced all my injectors and fuel pump,i was having the exact same problems. started the same way a little miss at low rpms.no codes came up for me either,they wont for this problem.

 

iv got the same problm i no 100% what ur talkign about but mine stoped stalling after i replaced the spark plugs so that mite help the staling but not the rough idle and the way it drops rpm

 

I found out that the ignition module was the problem. That then caused the distro cap and rotor to burn up. I wanted to be sure that I had fixed the problem so I took it to a friend of mines shop, because it felt like the car was still running a bit rough. He told me that the 1st injector is causing an issue. So the question is...now should I replace all the injectors with new ones? Or should I just get the old injectors cleaned/refurbished?

 

its all about how much $$ you have adn i still havent found my problme its driving me nuts

 

DON'T CLEAN MULTECS.. they do not last.. go buy a set of Bosch rebuilts. The design 3 took care of all my problems for 169. I had issues like you.
go here good guys www.fuelinjectorconnection.com

 

Yeah I used fuel injector connection,good prices,good injectors.the bosch injector seemed to changed to tone and feel of my car,Im guessing its cause the spray nozel has multiple holes showering the gas ,opposed to the stock injectors dumping through a single outlet.

 

Are these the type you were talking about? Sorry for being pesky I just don't know s*** about fuel injectors.

 

I got the injectors today, but I'm having trouble removing the runners. The "Injector Swap" article said there are six runner to manifold bolts on each side. I can only find five on each. Does anyone know of a diagram or picture that points out the bolt locations?

 

She's a lilttle hidden on the bottom of the last runner and the other i believe is on the bottom of the second.. just feel around on the base until you feel it. May not be fun getting to them!

John

 

Alright I've got everything off of there and now I'm ready to put the new injectors in. My only other concern is that some of the Torx bolts that held the runners to the manifold are looking a bit worn. I tired autozone, advance, o'riley, and all the local dealers around here for replacements, but no one had any instock. Should I just replace these with some hex head bolts? To do that where could I find the bolt specs i.e length, threading etc...

 

I have the injectors in and everything installed, now when I turn it on, the car spits and stutters, and it won't idle. The RPMs just drop and it dies. What should I look for now??

*SOLVED* I was a moron and didn't notice the IAC was disconnected.

 

Did the injector swap solve your problems?

I've got the same issues. Car has rough idle but clears fine when i increase the revs, it is hesitant on initial gas from stop lights ect ect.

Plugs, leads, cap and rotor arm are all new and there doesn't seem to be a vacuum leaks I do have a exhaust header leak though.

I'm thinking the next thing is to change the injectors, is there a way of testing them ??

 

Its actually very easy to test them. All you need is an ohm meter or a volt meter with a setting for ohm's check. I suggest using a digital one for accuracy and make sure you are using the low setting. I have read that you can actually "fry" an injector by sending too much juice thru it.

It has been about 7 or 8 years since I did my test so I don't remember exactly what they should measure in at, 18 ohms comes to mind for some reason. But anyway, check each injector and record the numbers so you can relate the value to each injector. Removing the plug from the injector is easy. If I remember correctly you just pull the wire clip off and the plug pops right off. Do one at a time because its easy to get the plugs mixed up. Dont lose the clips!!!! I believe there are only 2 contacts on the injector. Check the ohms. Chance are, if it is your injector(s), it wont be all of them. So even tho I dont remember the exact value, as long as the values are very close to each other then you can assume the injector is OK(at least electronically). If you get one that has a substantially lower or even higher value than the rest, that is the telltale sign of a bad injector.

Good Luck, let me know how you fare....

 

When talking to the guy at www.fuelinjectorconnection.com he told me the the old multecs are made of a polymer that slowly breaks down when exposed to ethanol, where the bosch don't. I think all gas contains 8-10% ethanol now days (just a guess) but cleaning multecs won't do anything, they'll just fail again. If you want new injectors get the bosch 22#. A set of 8 for around $170.

 

Get Ford 24# injectors they are made by Bosh and work fine on GM cars. You can pick them cheap on ebay, Jegs or Summit racing. Check your fuel presure, it should be 42 to 47 psi with the vaccum line off.