I have the Super Ram sitting on my desk here, now I see why people have to remove the rocker arms. Is there any tool or comination of wrenches/sockets I can use to get to those bolts without taking off the rocker arms?

thanks

 

Get an allen head ball type socket for 1/4" ratchet and a fairly long wobble extension and whatever ratchet you have. You will still need to remove the valve cover, but not the rocker with this combo. Works great for me!



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David Tuschhoff
1991 RS/Z28 Camaro
FI 355ci NA SBC V8 M5.
12.47 @ 110.7mph 1.80 60'
Best mph of 111.6.
My f-body page!

 

I used a pair of vice grips and an L shaped allen wrench, it worked very well but took a little time. It takes a bit to position the wrench the right way and now my shift key is stuck down damnit>> argh>> Make sure the bolts you're using are very deep so it is easier.

Dave's idea sounds much faster, though.

 

tap the holes the other direction and screw it in from the other side.

 

Cool, thanks for the replies. I'm gonna go to the hardware store and get some more tools. Let you know how it goes...

 

Well, I just put the runners on w/o taking off the rockers. It was really easy actually. I was worried it would be hard because of all the HORROR stories on here. All I did was buy a 1/4" swivel, a 6mm socket, a 6mm hex wrench (with a round tip, Craftsman) and a 3" extension. Then I cut the hex wrench about 3/4" from the tip and put it in the 6mm socket. From there it was a piece of cake. Having the round hex head helped a lot, because I didn't even have to line up to the bolt. When my brother gets home maybe I'll take some pics with his digital camera.

 

Mmmmm K! I do believe that's going to be quite difficult since were talking about the lower runner bolts to base!




------------------
David Tuschhoff
1991 RS/Z28 Camaro
FI 355ci NA SBC V8 M5.
12.47 @ 110.7mph 1.80 60'
Best mph of 111.6.
My f-body page!

 

LOL, i also used a L allen wrench and vise grips! It was a pain.
The second time i just cut the L part off of the allen wrench and used it in a 1/4" socket with an extension, seems to work pretty well.
I must say that David's idea is the best I've heard yet.

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White '88 RS (originally 2.8)
Previous engine-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi, stock 305 injectors & chip. TES headers & edelbrock cat back. 3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 357-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)
New Setup:
4 bolt 357 (10.2:1), AFR 190s (fully cnc ported), LT4 Hot cam (1.6 RRs), Ported SuperRam (upper&lower), Ed Wright custom chip, 24# Accel injectors, Yank 3200 lock-up TC, 3.27 9 bolt rear, some traction! Hoping to see some 12s.

 

No way man. Heres how you do it. Just use a hole saw and make a nice big hole through the block to the lifter valley. Then you can tighten up the bolts with a few extensions and swivels.
Then all thats left is a nice big clump of JB weld to top it off! Its that simple, makes me wonder why we all don't use this great technique!



[This message has been edited by '87FAKE-IROC-Z (edited December 11, 2001).]

 

You guys rock! I just installed the superram last Sat. I started in a good mood, until I tried to tighten the runners onto the base. Those lower bolts are a mofugga! I cursed and questioned whether it was possible to do this. I tried a swivel, extension and all that sh*t. Then got frustrated and came upstairs and searched the board. I went to auto zone bought a 5.99 set of rounded allen wrenches. cut the 90* off of it. Then I used a 6mm socket to turn the longest part of the wrench (with) ball shape to tighten the bolts. Worked pisser. Still took the rocker arms off , but if I cut the wrench a little shorter probably could have left them on. Then I tried to put valve covers back on. They wouldn't fit between A.I.R. tubes and runners, WTF. Grinded 4 small areas on each valve cover and they dropped right in. Next was the "fun" task of the plenumn. I had read somewhere to use studs instead of the bolts that came with the kit. Studs are very good in the middle outer holes and the inner corner holes and they definately help line the plenum up to the runners so you can start the bolts underneath. I could not get the two inner middle bolts started after trying for over an hour. I search the board again and found another usefull trick. Cut a slot in the bolts, remove the top cover, and turn the bolt in from the top. Genius! That worked like a charm! I used a piece of vacuum hose to hold the bolts up into the hole and turned, with the new slot, as tight as I could with a little screw stick. To put a finishing torque on all the bolts a 1/4", 12 point ratchet wrench worked real well. This message board in awesome!
:hail:

 

Thanks for the Vote of confidence

 

Just get a Stealth Ram it's way easier. Take it from an ex Super Ram guy. I have all sorts of 6mm allen wrenchs & sockets left over from the Super Ram days & the Vise Grip & ball end wrench work the best.

 

Why do you have to remove the rocker arms?

 

I don't see why Accel just doesn't sell the SR with studs and a special tool to install the lower runner bolts and save everybody some trouble..

 

To get access to the 4 lower runner to base bolts, rockers from cyls 2,6,3 & 7 are right in the way.

 

I agree...SLP includes a ball end allen wrench with their runners, I don't see why Accel can't.

 

We all know if Accel included some special tools that the SR would cost well over $2000! LOL