Here's the situation; the car starts fine, but won't idle. I have to hold it at about 1/4 throttle to keep it running, if I let off the gas or shift it into gear and try to move it the car will bog down and shut off. After about a minute of keeping the rpms up it will idle on its own but the rpms will drop until it almost shuts off, then rev back up and idle faster again.

When I try to drive the car it has NO power. To move it up the slight hill in the driveway I have the pedal to the floor but the car responds like I'm barely giving it any gas. When the rpms do rise its very jumpy and surging and still has no power. Sometimes the car will throw a code 32 (egr) and it smells rich.

Here's the list of things I've checked or replaced:
1. I put another EGR valve on it and the part that screws into the side of it with a spare I had from another car.
2. Replaced the IAC
3. Checked the TPS (it reads what its supposed to and increases linear as the throttle opens)
4. New plugs and wires
5. Replaced the vacuum lines that looked worn.
6. Tried two MAFs from other cars, and tried it with the MAF unplugged.
7. Fuel pressure is 44psi.

I'm about at my wits end with this damn car so I'd appreciate any help you can give me.

 

check your fuel pressure, sounds like a bad fuel pump

 

Fuel pressure is 44psi, sorry forgot to put that on the list of things I checked. Any other ideas?

 

Check the timing.

 

I'm having almost the same experience with my 88 but mine doesn't start doing these things until it is warmed up, it helps if I unplug the temp sensor so I replaced but it changed nothing and I also changed out everything on your list and checked fuel pressure and it is consistent. Been dealing with this for about a year now and will soon be getting rid of the car if I don't solve it soon. It's just not worth driving a car if it is going to stall at any time any where. My girlfriend currently drives my 83 Z28 but I'm probably going to get her a little honda and use the 83 as my daily driver, junk yards give a bit more cash when you drive the car in yourself. My sister's 4th Gen is doing the same thing so whatever it is GM never fixed it. If you solve or have solved the problem please let me know.

 

Crank positioning sensor!

 

I have gone through and identified all sensors and looked through Haynes and Chilton manuals and can find no reference to a crank position sensor. There is a crank signal but this is only for initial start up.

 

chek resistance of injectors.sounds like your only rulling on one bank.

 

I would check them to.

The stock multec is on the brink of death (if they still are stock on your car)
Values should be between 14-16 ohm (and close to each other, check them both cold and HOT) if any is below 12ohm they are junk.

Jon at FIC have Bosch III (22lbs/hr) that have 3 years warranty for $169,95
Awesome injectors, exellent spraypattern, good throttle response and good milage. Ive tested several brands and types (accel, multec, ford racing, evo and these Bosch III from Jon at Fuel Injector Connection) And they where by FAR THE BEST! I would recommend his Bosch III anyday, call him up and talk to him and he gladly will help you out.

But measure them first, and if they are bad, contact him about the Bosch III (http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...&productId=134)