Hey guys, I've put a new EGR valve on the car and double checked the lines to make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. The code went away for awhile but now it pops back up within a few seconds of starting the car. Does anyone know what else I should check?
The car is an 86 IROC LB9 mostly stock except for headers, dual exhaust and the previous owner removed the smog equipment. It runs great but I'd just like to get rid of the SES light before I try to sell it. Thanks.

 

The EGR temp sensor is a huge problem and is also unavaible. Some guys fix them. there's a tech article on the subject. Or, you could just get it programmed out and have the EGR operate without it. The sensor is simply a monitor to tell the ECM that the valve is open. To verify that the sensor is the cause of your DTC, perform the diagnostic flow chart for the code. I will upload it to my "wiring diagrams" thread on the Electronics forum.

 

if you get lucky, some ebay sellers still have some.

 

yeah, I meant to say "discontinued". Doesn't mean no one's got them.

 

Is that the piece with the wire coming out of it that screws into the EGR valve? If so I have a spare from my other TPI.

 

Yeah. that's the peice.

 

They piece is probably the number one cause for a code 32. A very simple device that has become hard to find. After a year of searching I found one on ebay brand new in the box. I started a thread on it last year and it is ballooned into a monster. Just search EGR temp sensor and you should find the thread.

 

Great, I'm gonna swap them out and hopefully that will fix my problem. Thanks for the help guys!

 

I have a 90 5.7L TPI and I have the dreadful EGR code 32 I cant get rid of. I recently have replaced the EGR with a new Negative pressure one and changed out my solenoid plug to the LT1 type in order to use the 95 Caddy 4.9L replacement one that was on Burnout88's thread.

Since I do not have that little temp sensor wire on my engine, what else might be causing this code to make the SES light to come on after it is warmed up? I do not have any issue with it running cold or warm. It idle's fine and it is not rough during both conditions.

When I use the high tech paperclip method...I have tested the voltage at the solenoid and it is 12vdc on the pink wire. When I take out the paperclip and remove the negative cable on the battery to clear the ECM codes, I then do a test drive and its fine for about the first 15-20 mins and then SES light comes on.

I am at a loss what to check from here. I appreciate anyones input on what to do from here.

Thanks again.