Yeah, that is one sweet shortblock you have there.

As you said, all it needs is a set of heads.

I've seen you mention AFR 190s. Have you thought about the AFR Eliminator? That's the one with the dual quench combustion chamber.

Where do you run that car around raleigh?

Had you dynoed the previous setup?

 

thanks man.... i think i want to go afr 195 heads... i just have too much torque so afr 195 seems to be good for a hot 355...

there are a few drag strips down here benson dragway and rockingham dragway.... i have been to both but not in my car....

the only time i had my car dynoed was when i still had my stock block..... block had 150,000+ miles and was blowing blue smoke... it was a highflow tpi with basic bolt ons and exhaust.... it dynoed at 215whp by 283wtq.. (this was a 350tpi mind you) my car blew up on the dyno... it was too much stress for the old engine so i built this one that i have now.... i really want to get track numbers and dyno numbers to see where im at now....

 

I'm originally from Orangeburg, SC .... Used to run at Orangeburg Dragstrip a lot, but there was a huge underground street racing scene there back in the day, too. Some guys would come down from Raleigh every now and then, they said there was a lot big money street racing going on there, too.

 

yes there is... there is a main street near my house called capital blvd and police just wait there on the weekends because its known for street racing on weekend nights..... right before i swapped to my FIRST i took on a ls2 gto on that street.... got him off the line but he quickly passed me....... i would like to see that race again with the new intake on....

 

LOL reminds of my first run-in with a Turbo Buick. Talk about a sleeper.....

 

Check your timing to make sure it is the same as it was. Check the fuel pressure and bump it about 2# higher than the old intake then run through the minimal idle setting procedures a couple of times. It took a couple cycles to get the TPS set just right in relation to the base timing, IAC, and idle throttle setting. It should idle every bit as smooth as it did before. If you're not burning your own chips,,, I'm not so sure you'll HAVE to get a new chip,, mine ran extremely well off the stock chip with 10* base timing and 42# pressure. If you were happy with the way it ran before chances are minimal idle setting, bump in fuel pressure,,, and maybe a degree or so in timing might put you close enough to at least wait until you did the head change.

Also, while I too think the 80 series flowmashers sounds very nice on these cars,, if it is the 43083 (15x4x9.75 case),, it is one of the worst performance mufflers you can run and the 53083 (17x5x10 case) isn't much better. I'd swap mufflers before I did a chip also. If you were to swap to a DynoMax 17227,,, even over the larger 53083,, you're probably looking at 10 - 15rwhp (through a large portion of the RPM band,,, not just at peak) and at least a 100 rpm higher shiftpoint.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-17227

 

Yeah, but how does that Dynomax sound?

 

I agree to revisit the tune areas and go from there. Also one thing about port alignment. It the ports do not line up correctly and a "wall" is created you not only have a physically smaller cross sectional area you also have in a practical sense and even smaller cross sectional area. That is because the turbulance created by the wall will further decrease the size of the area where there is free flowing air.

I am just saying this in general and not saying that is your problem. It is a reason I like to assemble the parts ahead of time and look into how the ports line up. Then clean them up as necessary.

 

Do you happen to know what the height and width of the port was where it exits the base and bolts onto the head? I was wondering if it was about the size of a Felpro 1204 gasket so that it would work on stock factory heads. My First base was that way. However yours looks different than mine in that area.

 

Different. However,, you could still tell it was an f-body. It doesn't have near the resonance at idle, it's quieter but still gives off a nice muscle car rumble. It's relatively quiet under minimal throttle,, but it gets louder the heavier you get with the throttle. In fact, it was loud under WOT. My best guess is it would be louder under WOT than the 80-series.

I had a lot of people flag me down on the street and come in the pits to ask what exhaust system I was running on the car. Like I said,, it was a little different since most people around here do run the 80-series.

Here's a link to an internal view of the 80 series. The main muffler body is EXTREMELY small,,, and these chamber designs need a lot of internal volume to make good power. If you love the Flowmasher's sound,, I'd convert to the largest single in and out muffler that would fit.

http://i.pgcdn.com/pi/3/79/29/37929926_640.jpg

edit- I did a quick search for audio clips and this is as close as I could find that was a decent representation how the UltroFlow sounded. I don't think his tune is dialed in,,, mine wasn't as crackly,, but it gives you a good idea of not so loud at idle,, then what the!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2tbdPOkT3I

 

Is that Ultraflow the one with the spring-laoded valve in it?

 

This is what I'm used to an LT4 Hotcam sounding like at idle. Yours sounds about 1000% better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjZrm...eature=related

 

No, the 17227 is a straight through design like the MagnaFlow and Borla Sportsman mufflers,, except it's more of a "y"design for the dual exit I think DynoMax makes a spring loaded muffler now,, but I haven't run one,,, or even heard one in person yet.

 

yes i measured it before with my caliper.... it was about 1.2 inches wide and 2.1 inches in height....

 

yes mine sounds abit choppier... here is an old video with the same mods except with my old tpi and the chip was tuned for it all...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-mcxPSKgD8

 

hmmm

 

i love my first....

ok... thats all i had to say


carry on

 

"yes i measured it before with my caliper.... it was about 1.2 inches wide and 2.1 inches in height...."

Hmmmm, that is 2.52 square inches less the corner radius. That certainly is not a problem.

 

88fatgta... where u get that intake set up?

 

I agree. My TPI/SLP combo's stock base was ported as much as it could be ported without welding. The SLP runners were matched to the intake and ported as much as possible without cutting them apart. I removed a little of the divider at a time until ET and MPH leveled off,, so that TPI/SLP combo was as good and as tuned as it could be for that combination. The box-stock FIRST was .5 seconds faster at the track and that was with the old gaskets that over-hung the ports. I'm sure there was another .15 seconds with the new gaskets and a mild clean-up with a grinder. Anyway, I have to say some of that ET drop was due to the FIRST moving the torque curve up high enough that I could manage the launch a little better. However, the bottom end was still extremely strong and it added a good bit from a kick. A buddy's bolt-on LS1 T/A could pull away from the TPI/SLP combo from a kick, but after the FIRST I could pull heavily on him from a kick. If it made that kind of improvement over what I consider a well ported and optimized TPI/SLP intake, I'm sure it would be a massive difference over a stock unported intake and as you reported a huge difference over your old intake.

Good luck with the rest of your project,, and aren't you glad you didn't go with the MiniRam now - lol.

 

i totally agree with you badss.... the power really kicks in the midrange and does not die off nowhere near as quick as my old tpi.... it seems to have lost a tiny bit of take off but MUCH more oomph in the midrange... its like the power keeps going then slowly dies off as to where my old tpi it would just hit the power all at once then falls flat... MUCH better intake imo.... guys at first fuel injection really got themselves a winner here.... but be warned..... this intake required alot of modifcation to fit my application.... i had to take the manifold off twice because both side of the intake was hitting that long ridge that goes on each side of the cylinder head causing it to leak coolant badly.. that issue had caused my coolant to get into the lifter galley and get into the oil and pan... so i flushed it out twice with standard oil then put it my mobil 1 oil.... then all the intake bolts were a tad off so it required ovaling out all the holes... the tps switch was binding of the throttle linkage causing the throttle to bind... had to use spacers so it would not contact anything...i had to buy a different throttle spring because the spring they supply was a tad to short and was really hard to press down on the pedal and caused the car it coast wherever your foot was on the gas.... there are more thing but i wont go into detail...its not for the novice because its not quite the bolt on as you expect..... plan on buying tons of little things and doing ur custom lines because like i said its alot of work imo...

 

got the intake from

firstfuelinjections.com

 

Good luck with the rest of your project,, and aren't you glad you didn't go with the MiniRam now - lol.[/quote]



yeah i am soooo happy i didnt go with my miniram.... i bought the complete miniram for 200 from and friend i actually sold the miniram on ebay and made enough money off it to buy the FIRST outright..... so this intake was basically free for me....

 

Yes, the intake is a bit of a pain to install , but worth the effort in the end!
Check your throttle travel, on mine I had to lengthen my throttle cable by one inch. On mine, the throttle blade would be maxed out, yet the foot pedal would only be about 3/4 depressed, this causes a lot of pressure against the linkage bracket if you get your foot into it hard, and it was starting to bend by throttle lever.

 

Well when I had my first installed I almost killed myself on the highway... My car felt at that time to be a toyota(this was 2 weeks after the whole toyota.. Because the throttle would get stuck and as much as I was pressing the break it still wanted to go.... Switched the spring and I was goooood to go!!!

 

yea you got to switch that spring out..... idk why he gave that spring in the kit... i have to go to autozone or pepboys and get a different spring... other than that everything is pretty much good..... it still runs circles around my old tpi tho..... i just cant imagine what a set of afr 180s would do....

 

Also for my fuel rails I used an ss line instead of the rubber one he says to install in the diagrams... I figured better safe than sorry

 

well guys took the bird out last night and i just so happened had a 06-07 mustang gt try to get me off the line at a stop light..... i absolutely murded him off the line and kept on pulling away hard.. he had no chance whatsoever... I LOVE THIS INTAKE.......


071811164337.jpg?t=1311077573

 

Now go find a 5.0 stang and see how it does Glad you like the intake, thats a good combination there.

 

yeah i want to try the new 5.0 mustang or the new camaro to see where i stand now....

 

more updated pics with my strut tower brace back on..... all i need now is my polished valve covers.... let me know what yall think.....

071911102831.jpg?t=1311092706

 

Looks very good.Like them 70 $ spark pugs wires.I have shields on mine. but need to upgrade.Go eat them stangs up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

thanks man... i just read that the 2011 mustang gt's are 11.82 second cars with just tires only... wow.... im not sure if i can beat one of them.... maybe with heads and converter added to my build.... but im sure i will loose to one of them.... and i thought i could beat any mustang gt out there...

 

yeah the new ones are crzy fast....more power than the camaro and wieghs less

 

Are you sure about 11.8 ?? Motor Trend has it at 12.8 for the GT Premium. Their numbers are usually a little on the conservative side so 12.5 or 12.6 wouldn't surprise me. Granted that is still pretty fast but it is far from unobtainable for your new build. Its a shame you couldn't swap to the AFR's when you were doing your install, but I understand how it is to work on a budget.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...t_numbers.html

 

Oh and about your polished valve covers....

One of the things I really like about your engine compartment is that even with that monster intake, it could still pass for stock to a lot of people. Except for the guy who tries to fill your windshield washer fluid.

Anyway, considering you went with the satin manifold, the polished valve covers may look a little out of place. Just my opinion. Maybe you could clean up your existing covers and add the matching accents that you had done to the manifold.....

 

yeah i thought about painting my stock valve covers or having them powdercoated to match my intake... your also right about those polished cover might be out of place since nothing else on my engine is really polished

 

here was the article about the mustang

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1...5-0-in-the-11s

 

tell me about it.... i would have loved to switch to afrs while down there but that will be my next big thread coming up next year.... thats the last major component that i want to add to my 355 engine....

 

Good to hear your end product works so well.....I just received my FIRST yesterday so I may hit you up with questions.

 

ok thats cool man.... i just got done working out all the bugs in my system..... so far im more than pleased with the results... dont be afraid to ask questions if you need it......

 

they are not 11.8 with just a tire. they dyno around 375rwhp in stock trim.

 

People in general are funny. A "stock" 5.0 runs 11.8 with a tire?

You have to ask yourself is the car really capable of stock C6 Z06 times with much less horsepower/torque, and weighs alot more.

If one guy does it, does that mean the car is capable of it. Yes and No!

From what I have read an 11.8 car is full suspension and a tire with a 1.6 60 foot (abouts). This is not your mustang that you will find rolling the street.

 

well in that case i could hang with it.... it wont spank me so i might have a chance...

 

You'd be surprised how often you come across that

 

well first thing is first... i need to give alvin from pcmforless a visit to dial in my tune.... i feel i can benefit greatly from a tune...

 

if you can find someone to dyno tune it, that be best.

 

i still cant get over the midrange punch that this thing has..definitely much more fun to drive around the street.. to me its one of the top mods i would do if your wanting more power out of tpi...

 

i live one hour from the pcmforless building... for me it costs 500 for alving to dyno tune my car..... idk if i should wait to get my heads then get it all tuned because it would be pointless to tune it now just only to swap to better heads needing another 500 tune..... maybe i should wait till i got everything done on my engine to tune it...

 

Id say you just wait for the heads then do the tune... But damn that first Tpi looks really good too bad its really costy lol