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So I've come across what I believe to be a gem, a 1 owner 1985 Z28 w/ the LB9 (305 TPI)... Asking price is at $2K, I've got them to about the $1250 mark. IS it worth it?
The seller has stated "hasn't been started in two years but ran last time it was started."
When giving it the once over I noticed that *if* it has AIR Injection like my 92 (TBI), there's no belt on the smog pump. Should I think the worse? Or should I see if we can get the engine turned over, car started to see what if any codes pop? Would this be a good buy for the price point I'm at? Also, can any of you suggest a series of steps one would take before just charging the battery and turning the key?
1250 is cheap but man think of the $ and effort it will take to bring her back. It's just up to you if you're willing to put that kind of work in. I do love seeing them brought back. Good luck.
So I've come across what I believe to be a gem, a 1 owner 1985 Z28 w/ the LB9 (305 TPI)... Asking price is at $2K, I've got them to about the $1250 mark. IS it worth it?
The seller has stated "hasn't been started in two years but ran last time it was started."
When giving it the once over I noticed that *if* it has AIR Injection like my 92 (TBI), there's no belt on the smog pump. Should I think the worse? Or should I see if we can get the engine turned over, car started to see what if any codes pop? Would this be a good buy for the price point I'm at? Also, can any of you suggest a series of steps one would take before just charging the battery and turning the key?
I don't like to purchase a car if I can't hear it run, but if you are willing to.. price wise, can't help because here in Portland OR, I see running 3rd gens between 1k-3k all day long on Clist that look good, mostly 305s or swappec 350. I'd save up and find a better example, unless u r down with peojrpr. It may be a winner, though. If u purchase, I would check n change all fluids, get it up in the air, check underneath, brakes , make sure wiring is intact from mice etc, change gas, etc. Good luck with your search
1250 is cheap but man think of the $ and effort it will take to bring her back. It's just up to you if you're willing to put that kind of work in. I do love seeing them brought back. Good luck.
From what I saw the car is solid and was being prepped for paint and then garaged, was brought out earlier in the summer and has sat since. The missing ground effects are included and the Interior is in pretty decent shape and No rust / holes underneath. I was thinking i'd haggle down to a flat $1K then i'd feel better but that's wishful thinking.
I don't like to purchase a car if I can't hear it run, but if you are willing to.. price wise, can't help because here in Portland OR, I see running 3rd gens between 1k-3k all day long on Clist that look good, mostly 305s or swappec 350. I'd save up and find a better example, unless u r down with peojrpr. It may be a winner, though. If u purchase, I would check n change all fluids, get it up in the air, check underneath, brakes , make sure wiring is intact from mice etc, change gas, etc. Good luck with your search
I understand completely. A condition of the sale is getting the engine to turn over and start. I was told oil was checked and appears clean but i'll see for myself and likely change it on the spot along with draining as much of any old fuel I can and adding in fresh fuel. The battery should be charged by then and if the engine will turn over manually then i'll go for a turn-key ignition. if that works then my 2nd thoughts will likely start to fade.
I don't know how much you can do on your own. If you are good with all aspects of rebuilding cars and have all the tools and the means to do the work I would say 1K or just above would be o.k. If not I would be running from this as fast as I can. If the car was left for 2yrs with gas in the system then I assume you know the amount of work that it takes just to get that cleaned and operating. Engine work...Body work... New paint...interior work...man the list is endless on this.
Find and nice one out here on the west coast and ship it. Doesn't really cost that much. Nothing here has rust.
GD
Gem as in a potential diamond in the ruff, that's all. To your main point though buying from farther west and shipping it to the Midwest... I'd have to find one at a deal and get a deal on shipping and I mean a GREAT deal. It's really slim pickn's where I'm located.
Originally Posted by vinny R
I don't know how much you can do on your own. If you are good with all aspects of rebuilding cars and have all the tools and the means to do the work I would say 1K or just above would be o.k. If not I would be running from this as fast as I can. If the car was left for 2yrs with gas in the system then I assume you know the amount of work that it takes just to get that cleaned and operating. Engine work...Body work... New paint...interior work...man the list is endless on this.
Fact is I'm no master mechanic, just a noob w/ TGO & a GM Service manual for my 92, I have a few Haynes Manuals too. I know nothing of the amount of work that it takes to get the fuel system cleaned and operating as it should. I assumed that was as simple as draining existing fuel, adding new fuel w/ a bottle of *insert fav fuel system cleaner*. I'm guessing that's not the case.
These cars are tough to work on honestly. I've had a lot of Gbodys and box Chevy trucks that were so easy to work on in comparison. My honest opinion is this will be a money pit and may even burn you out.
These cars are tough to work on honestly. I've had a lot of Gbodys and box Chevy trucks that were so easy to work on in comparison. My honest opinion is this will be a money pit and may even burn you out.
Based on all feedback rcvd, I did not buy this ThirdGen.
UPDATE: Found this for $1800 obo seller is willing to take $1450. Seems like a MUCH better foundation that what I have. I should have pics of the undercarriage sometime tomorrow...
Another rusty dumpster fire. That's going to look like garbage underneath - I can tell just looking at the engine bay. Jeez even the center console *screws* are rusted and so is the auto shifter post..... Find one out here and pay the $1500 to ship something that has no rust. $1500 is NOTHING compared to what it will cost in time and money to deal with the level of rust you have out there. Also they are relatively cheap out here because there is no rust so we have a lot of them. If you find one here in the Portland metro I can inspect it for you at my shop if you like. Our pre-buy inspection fee is $85 and I can send you lots of pics, etc.
GD
Last edited by GeneralDisorder; May 30, 2019 at 05:40 PM.