Had a question I see Trick Flow has four different types of cylinder heads for my 305 TPI. Which one would be the best to get? Right now everything is stock. But I plan on getting some headers, and a new cam. Don’t have the money to swap the whole engine even though I would love to have an LS.

 

Can you post links to the four different heads?

 

they have that many for a 305? when i looked there was only one. make sure they specifically say 305. all the power in the world is in the heads so do whatever it takes to get the best possible heads you can. if it means saving a bit longer its worth it. trick flow are decent heads though. the heads i saw were the 23 degree heads that had i think a 58 or 56 cc chamber to bump up compression a little which is a really good thing.

 

 

This is what is on the site. And I was just curious. I don’t mind spending the cash for some good cylinder heads. I have to do my intake gaskets, I figured might as well do the cylinder heads since I’ll be ripping into the engine anyways. If I decide to buy the Trick Flow heads, any suggestions what I should buy with them?

 

It looks like there are 2 heads - the first 3 are perimeter bolt valve cover with 3 different valve spring combos - but the same head.
The last one is for centerbolt valve cover.

 

Heads are where all the power is made, but you need the appropriate cam and associated intake/exhaust bolt-ons to utilize them.

I would avoid heads/cam entirely until you are sure you are going to stay with Gen1 SBC.

 

Well what I would really like to do, is buy a 350 and just beef that up. I’m not looking for crazy power. I just want something for the street. And at least around 350 hp.

 

https://www.trickflow.com/search/pro...lock-chevrolet

There are two heads: one centerbolt and one perimeter bolt. Each is available four different ways: bare(to assemble yourself), or assembled with 1.250 diameter springs, 1.460 springs and 1.470 springs. The cam lift limits will be determined by the spring diameter. The specs are all there.

These will also transfer to a 350, if you go that route later.

 

Since the cam and heads are at the heart of the engine, its best not to spend money on them when changing your mind later means losing the money spent on cam/heads that didn't ultimately meet your goals.

I would stick with bolt-on upgrades like upgraded TPI, or headers/exhaust. These will add 20-30whp everywhere without altering the engine enough to impact the tune negatively.

The cam and heads you chose for a 305 are different than what you would buy for a 350.

 

Ok that’s definitely good to know! I might just keep the whole setup. I don’t have too much money to put towards a whole new engine and conversion. I could definitely get a 350 but that’s about it. If I spend anything too crazy, my girlfriend is probably going to kill me. Women don’t appreciate a fine car. Trying to get me to buy a Lexus lmao!

 

The Lexus will be faster.

If you like your Thirdgen and its not a basket case or a rust bucket, then make a plan for it and stick to the plan. Every part should be in accordance with the plan. You'll save money.

if you are going to put a 350 in it later, then don't buy anything that will not be something you would also buy for the 350.

 

What do the different spring heights do? Also what would be a good cam and cylinder head combo if I were to buy the Trick Flow heads? I don’t understand all that much. I know how to install, but I don’t get all the different combos possible.

 

This. Buying a fat kid Jordan's wont make them good at sports. Save your coin. 350hp is doable with a mild 350. Save for that. You'll need the extra coin for the supporting mods and ECM tuning.

 

Lol! Ok I’ll just save for that. I would love to find one in the junk yard by me. Then I would just rebuild it. But the junk yards in Chicago suck!

 

If you like the look of TPI, I suggest scouring the for sale section for used TPI take-off parts. Plenty of people are making the switch to LS and are selling their old parts. Accel, TPIS, and Arizona Speed & Marine made the best stuff.

 

Ever consider a 350 Vortec (96-later) swap? You’d get more cubes and a much better head. Get a Vortec base maybe swap in a cam before install and you’re probably in the neighborhood of your goal

 

I never checked to be honest. I just wasn’t sure what would be compatible with the 3rd gen cars. I would
be comfortable with a 3000 dollar budget for an engine.

 

Just get a 96 to 99 Vortec and be done with it. I got mine with 177k on it, did a rebuild, cam, valve train, intake, etc and am at 325 RWHP with iron Vortec heads. That's getting close to 400 HP at the crank.

I don't think $3k is enough budget, but you will get quite a ways toward the goal if you spend your money wisely.

GD

 

I can spend more on it, that was just idea. But yeah I would be happy with that set up! That’s all I need.

 

Pretty much this + Vortec TPI base + Tune and done.

A Vortec with ALL of the associated bolt-ons will make 350 crank no problem and probably near 400lb/ft torque.

A Vortec and LT1 are very much the same in terms of power potential.

If you are looking for a "Simple it just works" upgrade from a 305 car, then a Vortec 350 is easy peasy. Its drops right in and re-uses all the major stuff.

 

What's a take out Vortec worth at the scrapyard? Something that won't have to go to the machine shop. Seems to me I could buy a running truck for a couple thousand. Then you know it runs.

 

Well, there are the crappy Jasper remans and such from the major parts stores.

But honestly, I'd trust a used engine from a junk yard as long as the oil is clean more than those parts chain remans.

 

Fair enough I suppose. Personally, I'm past the junkyard days but it does give some insight into what a newcomer would have to be prepared to deal with. That said, I'm not entirely against dropping the engine from my spare truck (03 Tahoe/LM7) in the Camaro but that's zero purchase price to me. However, I know with the direction my builds tend to go, that LM7 would certainly need to be refreshed and more. Using it as a fitter and collecting all of the other necessary bits isn't a bad approach though.

As for the OP and a junkyard Vortec, is it possibly to find something for less than a grand?

 

It’s pretty awesome all the different setups you can go. And all the different combinations you can do. But yeah I’m not looking for something all that crazy. I just want a daily driver for the Spring and Summer months. And something that is just faster than the 305. I might go with the Vortec direction if It’s as easy as that.

 

Here in my area they are $600 to $900 for running pull-outs.

I searched around and found a disabled fellow that parts out full size Chevy's in my area and got a Vortec with blown intake gaskets (was common on these) and 177k on it. Was full of milkshake but it didn't damage anything (wasn't knocking and no metal in the filter). I got it for $200 and he loaded it.

Machine work on the block, including line hone, new main and rod bearings, rods resized with ARP hardware, cam bearings, hot tank, freeze plugs, decked (all pistons 0.025" in the hole), and primered etc was $1600. Cylinder head work (clean, resurface, full valve grind, screw in studs, clearanced for more lift) was about $800. Then of course you have all the cam and valve train for a roller block with Vortec heads - probably another $1000 there. Then you have all the other bits like gaskets and seals, oil pump and pickup, pan, etc. I certainly have $4,000 in parts and machine work in my Vortec. But I assembled it myself (after double checking my machinists numbers of course), and have no one to blame but me if it doesn't live up to my expectations (it has). I prefer it that way.

Look here:

https://www.car-part.com/

GD

 

It'd be interesting to see if the OP could find a good running engine, pull the TPI off of the 305, get a Vortec base for it, a small cam to suit the OEM valvetrain (I ran 218@.050", .454" flat tappet in my first Vortec headed 350 with no extra work required) and headers. Try to skip the disassembly and machining and do all of that for the proposed $3000 budget.
Sort of like my 1st recipe although my vintage block had zero miles despite being nearly 20 years old (interesting story) and I bought the heads new as well as an Air Gap intake.. It was very inexpensive. I did dole out for ARP rod bolts and the requisite resizing but that was it machining-wise. It ran very well.

 

Problem with vortecs is cracking. If you can find a good set then all good but i hear alot of them are not good

if you have a roller cam motor get the 1.46 springs. Or get the heads with the 1.25 singles for flat tappets

 

There's that junkyard risk I was talking about. I've heard the stories and it makes me wonder what is it that kills them. It's has to mileage primarily I would think. I absolutely beat the hell out of my purchased as new heads. Bent valves. Overheated in the extreme. But in the end total mileage was about 100k. Sold them to a shop where they crack checked them and ran the Comp 26918 springs. Clean bill of health. I should have kept them.

 

Mine were fine with 177k on them and went through a blown intake gasket where the oil was heavily contaminated by coolant. They were pressure checked when rebuilt and no problems were found.

GD