So i bought this car and the seller said it probably has a bad fuel pump, the owner passed away and the last time this car was on the road was 2008.
now i replaced the fuel pump fuel filter and pump relay but still nothing.
It cranks ok and wil run for half a second max
I measured pressure at the fuel rail and that gives me 42 psi and keeps it when the key is turned off.
Now i tried to start it with starting fluid in the throttle body and the car shot flames at me through the throttle body lol.
Could it be bad injectors?

 

Injectors would be suspect based on the time it has been sitting unused. Old gas could have them gummed up. I'd test to verify the ecm is commanding them to fire and check the plugs before going too far. Sadly, it's a bunch of effort to get to the injectors even to test so it's may just be worth it to swap them. Normally I don't recommend changing without testing.
There's also the outside chance the timing is way off, but not likely.

 

To verify the ecm do i just measure voltage at the injector plug while i try to start? I measured al the injectors i could easily acces and all came in at around 24-32 ohm except for 1 who would jump al over the place

 

Somethings wrong with how you’re measuring injector ohms. Just use a noid light to check for pulse. Once you have pulse move on and get a set of injectors.
guaranteed there bad

 

Those ohm readings are very high.
To test for the ecm command, you'll have 12v power to them at with the key on. The ecm pulses the ground. They make tools called noid lights, they stick into the pigtail and will flash when cranking. A test light from one terminal to the other at the pigtail will flash to show the injector is getting command to fire as well, just harder to see and isn't as reliable. Regardless, it still sounds like bad injectors.

 

https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...injectors.html

 

Well sombody called this their home lol

 

Rats! make sure they didn't chew up a bunch of wires or vacuum hoses, looks like you already started down the path of changing the injectors. I would agree with others here if the fuel pressure is good, and it runs briefly/has good spark, injectors would be the next area to look. The noid lights are cheap and great to confirm signal to the injectors, but they wont tell you if they are clogged unfortunately. this is a great how to that I like to reference when I am doing injectors on a TPI (i've done it 3 times unfortunately) just take your time and make sure you dont strip anything in the intake, some of the runner bolts are always a nightmare to get to. I found it a must to remove the alternator to assist with disconnecting the fuel lines at the front of the block https://www.thirdgen.org/injectorswap/

 

Yea i still have a set of 19 lbs injectors from my foxbody which are still good if it solves the problem i know what i have to buy.
And it doesnt run run it makes an effort to run if you know what i mean it cranks, starts for maybe half a second and goes back to cranking

 

Ok update i changed the injectors with the foxbody ones.... Apperently they are a tad to short and leak gas at the top.
still didnt start so i measured with a test light and indeed i dont get a ecm signal to the injectors.
maybe the icm?

 

Icm, signal from icm to ecm, power to injectors , ecm ground or some 88s had vats

 

I have 12v at the injector but no switching signal, the car has vats and some aftermarket security system

 

I also noticed when i went to tried to pull codes i had no cel light with key on same with the brake light and seatbelt light only the security light wil briefly come on ( digital dash)

 

If you don’t have a mil, bulbs missing or check fuse next to battery. This powers fp and ecm. Might also check ecm 2 hots and accessory power.
https://tpiparts.net/1227165_pinout_diagram

 

whats the difference between the southbay ones and these? https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/p...nt=25861774791
Im asking because i live in Belgium and shipping with southbay is 100 and with the other one only 30
Also i have these injectors

 

I’d get the ones in post 6, the D3 from fic are noisy and could require some tuning .
voltage offsets to work well.

 

Ah ok thanks for the clarification

 

Well i removed the aftermarket alarm system which hooked up to the pink wire on the radio....
i tried to start it and she ran for about 10 seconds then i shut her off went to get my wife and now again nothing lol keeps cranking and attempts to start but wont
Also checked the bulbs on the three lights but they are fine also the 20 amp fuse next to the battery is still good

 

hmm If you havent already check out the ICM ignition control module under the distributor cap - they often go bad, autozone used to be able to plug them in and test them, but the replacements are pretty cheap IIRC

 

Yeah i ordered one from rockauto so thats next on the list, sadly we dont have a autozone here in Belgium. You Americans get all the fun stuff

 

Went to replace the icm today and i think this was my problem lol, the connector is completely gone.
should i replace the pickup coil or just replace the complete dizzy?

 

I would not waste one more second on that crusty mess. Replace the distributor.

 

Yeah, no doubt, change that whole distributor

 

Ok will do, will update when its arrived

 

I had a similar looking coil situation on a previous bird of mine, and I just replaced the coil and cleaned everything up it wasn't too terribly hard and coil was like 10 bucks (I also had a lot less money at the time). I suppose just depends on what level of effort and money you want to put in, there is most likely nothing wrong with the distributor itself but for peace of mind and ease, can just throw a whole new one in as others have said. glad you found the issue, that coil has left the building!

 

Yeah i could also order the coil and fix it up and then throw it in the reserve parts bin, so the next time it breaks i dont have to wait that long or pay as much tax for new parts.
Good thinking