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ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)

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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 09:23 PM
  #1  
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From: L.I.,NY
need help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)

im in the process or rebuilding my 700.. i have the ATSG book... and from what the book is describing and showing to what came out of my tranny im now totaly confused.... pics and description of problems are as follows

3-4 clutch pack... is this config right.... the steel with the bent tabs goes in first
Attached Thumbnails ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)-dsc00132.jpg  

Last edited by TwinTurboROC; Jul 15, 2003 at 06:32 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 11:49 PM
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same setup... except i have an extra steel (bottom of pic/background on the table) and i cant figure out where it goes.

i have 6 new steel...
Attached Thumbnails ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)-dsc00133.jpg  
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 11:53 PM
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here is another pic of the old steels (notice the broad tabs on the outer edge) as opposed to the extra one from the overhaul kit.... the middle steel of the 3 on the left is about 1/8 inch thick.... the one on the top is the one with the bent tabs, and the one on the bottom is a spacer (im guessing) it has the same thickness of a regular clutch steel.
Attached Thumbnails ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)-dsc00134.jpg  
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 12:12 AM
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aslo take not that i have the v8 clutch setup so i have 6 friction clutches.... as per the atsg book im supposed to be using 5 steel plates, 6 friction plates, and and apply plate, and a backing plate. now if set up the atsg way it seems that i have to much play in the 3-4 clutch pack.... foward and backwards... basicly it seems like you could fit an extra clutch (or steel) in between.... now i am somewhat confused by the differences as to what came out of my trans... as to what is going back in.... its totaly different.... (maybe thats why it failed). also there is a techinical servive bulliten on adding an 1/8 inch apply plate at the bottom of the stack.... (closer to the foward clutches im assuming) to help minimize clutch damage due to wrong gear start off.... it also stated im supposed to have a minumum of .025 max of .060 inches of clutch clearance... i dont even with my current setup (pics) and its even more with the ATSG book setup....

should i follow the manual.... the techinical service bulliten.... or do u guys have any other advice?

aslo these springs sit one the bottom of either the clutch retainer ring.... or one of the plates.... depends on which config i have it in.... which way should they face... this way down(following pic) or up
Attached Thumbnails ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)-dsc00137.jpg  
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 12:20 AM
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alright those are the questions for the 3-4 pack now for the FOWARD PACK....

now in this pic is how i have the current setup for the foward clutches, now my tumb is pointing/on the "waved steel plate" the foward clutch apply plate is towards the left and an "extra" steel that came with the kit its towards the right of the waved plate. should it be in this configuration.... with the extra steel there.... or is the wave plate supposed to come into contact with the friciton plate... as per the atsg book i should be using 4 steel, 5 friction plates, 1 apply plate, and one waved plate... aslo not that i did pull out 5 steel's out of my tranny...
Attached Thumbnails ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)-dsc00136.jpg  
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 12:24 AM
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From: L.I.,NY
another side shot of the foward clutches.... aslo not that i have the over run clutches/steels in this show toward the left of the pic.

once again the book says one thing.... and i pulled out something different from my tranny... there seems to be too many extra parts from the rebuild kit... one extra steel for 3-4 and one extra for foward.... and extra parts comming out from teh tranny that are not in the kit and also not described in the book....

guys any help would be greatly appreciated in advance....
Attached Thumbnails ned help w trans rebuild 700rd (input housing clutchpack)-dsc00135.jpg  
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 05:52 PM
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From: L.I.,NY
bump

Last edited by TwinTurboROC; Jul 15, 2003 at 06:33 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 05:53 PM
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
Its hard to see what you have going on in some of the pictures, but I will try my best, give me a minute to analyze...
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 06:00 PM
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
3-4 clutch pack:
Tabbed plate goes first, then the "stepped" apply plate. The outside step points down and the inside step points up towards the clutches (so that it rides towards the inside of the first steel).
Then it goes steel, clutch, steel, clutch, steel, clutch, steel, clutch, steel, clutch, steel, clutch and then backing plate. So you should have 1 apply ring (tabbed plate), one stepped apply plate, 6 steels, 6 clutches and a backing plate.
You probably have an extra steel because you probably have one thats a different thickness for adjusting clearence.
If something is saying you only need 5 steels, thats if your using the newer apply plate, which had the apply ring, apply plate and first steel combined as one peice, which is what I use.

The spring "seats" go towards the bottom of the clutch pack, so that the "bare" spring ends rest on the backing plate. However, I do not use these. I throw them out and install the TransGo "Hi-Rev" springs instead. Now is the ideal time to install them while the input housing is still out.

Last edited by GMTech; Jul 15, 2003 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 06:12 PM
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
Foward/overrun clutches:

You should have an overrun steel, overrun clutch, steel, clutch, then a foward clutch apply plate (thick steel on top of the last overrun clutch). Then the waved plate, then the first steel, clutch, etc... Top it off with the foward backing plate.

When its all together, leak test the input housing. Note that applying air to the overrun circuit will allow air to bleed into the foward circuit. This is normal. You'll just have to put your finger over the foward hole (next one down) when air testing. Then when you air test the foward clutches, you should be able to freely spin the overrun clutches with a pick while the fowards are applied. If not, they are stacked wrong and will bind or burn up in 4th gear.
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 06:36 PM
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From: L.I.,NY
ok so what i pulled out was right.... cept that stepped apply plate... think that was in backwards.... can that plate (stepped) going in withe the step facing away from the clutches/steel's cause a clutch to deform the inner ring of the friction clutches where the splines/indexing tabs are was bent in (not the tabs themselves, but the actual clutch...). it looked almost like there was not back support for the clutches.... like something flexed.... aslo the outer edge of the friction material on one side was burnted.... and on the opposite side of the same clutch... the bottom of the frict matterial was burnt...

aslo how much free play should you have in the actual clutch packs themselves... should you have a space about as big as a steel between the pack of 3-4 when you compress them down (with the snap ring installed). i understand you need a certain amount of free play to index the clutches to the reverse hub and reaction carrier
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 07:24 PM
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
Its possible about the clutches. It is put in there, in that position for a reason. If you install it like I mentioned, or get the newer apply plate, you shouldn't have a problem.

Foward clearance: .030"-.063". Being a little on the tight side is OK, since the foward clutches are applied in all foward gears.
3-4 clearance: .060-.094, however I usually aim for about .045"
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