Just looking for opinions on this. I am currently having a 400 built by a performance machine shop.

On several occasions I've said to the guy at the shop that I'd like to get AT LEAST 400 HP to the wheels. Up to this point his only response has been "We'll get you at least that much".

Well, long story short, I finally cornered him on the topic. His reply has me both happy and worried at the same time.

I personally only expected maybe 420 HP and 450 ft lbs of TQ on the dyno. He's telling me I'll be closer to 500 HP at the fly with at least 450 TQ!!!!

What kind of drive train will I need to support this??? I think I'm in a league I didn't intend to be in when I started all this.

I have SFC's (that I still need to install), and I think my trans will hold up OK, but what about a clutch?? I only have a stock one in it now. I also still have a one-legger alum. drum rear in it too. But am I beyond the level for a 10 bolt posi?? A 9 bolt??

Or will I need to drop even more big $$$ on a 12 bolt?? How about the factory torque arm?? Should I buy LCA relocation brackets??

I want to put the power to the ground, but how much will that cost? It's not like I have'nt spent enough already...

I know a lot of people that would love to have this problem, but they may think differently if they just spent over 4K on an engine, and face spending who knows how much more $$$ in order to use the engine without tearing up the rest of the car.

You'd think I would have figured all this out by now. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Only thing I or anyone else can tell you is with that much power on a car that has nothing else built will get real expensive real quick if you try and use the power- which you will (we all push crap harder than we should) The only proper way to build a car is to start with the brakes, then drivetrain then engine- build the car to handle the power first, then put the power in. Might I suggest keeping the motor on a stand until you get everything built? That way, as you take off part and replace with more heavyduty, you can possibly still sell them as good used parts and get something from them. Otherwise they will be a bucket of bolts with 400+ hp along with harzardous throttle blips down the road with a chassis that cant handle it.

Food 4 thought

I would highly suggest a ford 9" rearend.

 

I think the ten bolt could handle that, however it is recommended you upgrade. First off, buy a POSI unit if you want to keep your stock rear, the one wheel peel rear you got will never get good traction with that monster in front of it. Upgrade to some wider tires. You got the subframe connectors. Im not sure what else, im no expert on the Suspension of these vehicles, and as for a clutch, do they make Spec stage II's for the T-5? If so, that is your best bet.

 

If you plan on ever using slicks that rear won't hold up long. If you have street tires it should be fine though.

 

I can't argue with you there BruteForce. But I didn't go into this totally blind I guess.

I do have an upgaded trans that's SUPPOSED to be able to handle it.....so far as the front end, I installed a PST frond end kit w/poly bushings all around.

So far as the rear though, it's a bone stock one legger with a bad axle bearing causing a vibration, so it's going anyway. I was planning to get a 91-92 PBR 10 bolt rear, and install my 3.73:1 gear in it. Money to buy a Moser 12 bolt wasn't in my "immediate plans. "

And I'll have the SFC's installed before I drop the engine in. I guess I'm just backwards in my build up. Sound advice though!!

pasky - The Spec clutch is exactly the one I was thinking about. Right now, I have brand new P245/60 15's all around. It'd be a shame to waste 'em!!... I don't plan on running slicks unless I buy a 12 bolt first. The car's my money pit (toy), but I plan 90% street use. Maybe down the track once, twice a year on test-n-tune days.

Will LCA relocation brackets really help w/traction?? I'm gonna try my hand at mig welding the SFC's on, and it would be best to do it all at once. Thx for the replies!!.

 

Should be interesting to see how your trans. holds up.

If you're pushing those numbers, you should consider a rear axle upgrade. Don't launch hard, just drive it, and save up for that 12 bolt.

Best of luck. Wish I had your problems.

 

Believe he said he had the G-force setup, don't they have on thier site it can stand 600 hp and 500 lbs of tourque? If so, I think it would be fine, I think G-force is a reputable company from what i've heard on these boards.

Oh, yea if they make a spec II for the T-5's, definatley get that, thier great!

 

Get get a Ford 9" rear and a stronger driveshaft too.

 

Will a Moser 12 bolt hold up as well as a 9" Ford rear?? But you're right, I'll need something better than a 10 Bolt eventually. From what I've read on the board, the stock driveshaft can support quite a bit of power. Can't it??

They do make stronger U-joints I think though. I'll have to accept the fact that I'll have traction issues until I can cough up any more cash for upgrades.

"Back in the day", a friend of mine had a 74 Monte SS with a 454...that thing was a torque monster!!!

He had a posi rear in it stock, and let me tell you, it would simply PLASTER you into the seat!! That's what I want to get with mine, minus the big block.

As mentioned though, I need to get the power to the ground to make it happen - without breaking!

 

Just thought I'd share - passed emissions today with flying colors!! :hail:

And it's fast too!! Boy am I nuts for pulling this engine or what!!??!

 

A 12 bolt will be fine, I just like a 9" better. If you get a 12 bolt, make sure to get it with the pressed on bearings, not the c-clips.
Stock steel 2.5" driveshafts are pretty weak.

 

How about a stock aluminum one from a 4th Gen???
Are they stronger, or just lighter?

(Driveshaft that is)

 

You know, there've been a few guys breaking the 4th gen aluminum driveshafts. Personally, I bet they're made of a thin wall aluminum compared to an aftermarket shaft. I'd economize with steel, and get a GOOD aluminum one when you can.

 

With that much power, I'd look into getting a Lingenfelter 3.5" Al d/s or a Spohn steel d/s.

 

The truth? You need a 9" with 35 spline axels and a Detroit Locker. If you've got a G-force trans it'll be fine. Get a serious driveshaft. The stock one is a spindle. Use bigger 1350 u-joints too.

I built my drivetrain up first, so that eventually I could go in and build a serious motor. Also, I boke my 10-bolt with a stock motor. I didn't really flog the car either. It just gave it up. Ripped three teeth off the pinion.

 

Thx for the advice TKO....I want to get a moser 12 bolt eventually, although I think overall the 9" is probably stronger. But if you believe magazine articles, the 9" had the most draivetrain HP loss. Plus it's a bit more expensive.

I've seen carbon fiber driveshafts, but thier serious money!!! (700 plus!!).....someone must make a heavy duty one for a REASONABLE price, right?? I guess I'll be gentle for a while. I have no choice.

Anyone have experience with LCA relocation brackets? Do they work??

 

There is more loss in a 9", but it can be minimized.

$300 for a HD steel driveshaft is reasonable

If you get brackets, make sure you get ones for a Moser rear. Spohn sells them for Moser rears. IIRC, 10 bolt brackets wont fit correctly.