I have done alot or research on this site before posing this question on this site, however I have not been able to find information on my specific question and that is: I have a 84 Z/28 with the oem hydraulic set-up, I'm running a Richmond 5speed, w/ a lakewood scattershield and a heavy duty street strip pressure plate. Are there any sucess stories out there utlizing after market manufactures of slave cylinders & master clyinders. mine does not seem to want to disengage. For street driving I could probably get by however when you drag race and the clutch gets hot it dosendt want to disengage and I think the pressure is bleeding by. I have already spaced the flywheel .100 closer to trans to get better disengagement.
Should I replace the hydrauic arrangement with the mechancial lingage? If so, is it a pain, will the pedals from the 84 work with the mechanical linkage, or do they need changed out to the 83style. Your thoughts are appreciated, I'm at my wits end.

11.02@126.5mph, 1.55 60' lotsof fun

 

I blew my slave cylinder when I installed my stage 3 clutch and just went to autozone and got a replacement one and it turns out it was made form machined aluminum! You could combine this part with a braided line and try finding a metal master cylinder housing.

 

" just went to autozone and got a replacement one and it turns out it was made form machined aluminum! You could combine this part with a braided line and try finding a metal master cylinder housing."

Outstanding! I also am involved in a project using a hydraulic slave cylinder setup (with an '88 Camaro T-5) and the cheap plastic slave cylinder is not making me comfortable about using it with my aluminum Willwood M.C. and the stock plastic line with a compression fitting. Do you have a specific part# ? It would be greatly appreciated.
Also what procedure did you use for bleeding it?
Thanks

 

When you say to replace the oem slave with one from a parts store, will the one from the parts store accept a fitting to use a braided line? Also the oem master cylinder would have to be capable of accepting the braided line. Have you made this conversion?

 

how'd you change just the slave on the assembly, i went to order one today and they told me the master, line and slave came as one unit.

 

Beats the slop out of me, I have an aluminum one (slave cylinder) that I have not repalced my oem plastic one with yet. I purchased it from Advanced auto parts and it is the slave cylinder only. I can't believe no one makes an upgraded model for these like they do for the 4th gen. This is really frustrating!!
I'm looking into a hydraulic release bearing as we speak. Keisler Engineeering makes the whole set up, but I have not heard of anyone using it. Its $500 for the bearing, master cylinder, resivoir, and the lbraided line. If I could get anyone to call me back from there would be a miracle.

 

Try Howe Racing, they make a hydraulic throwout bearing, looks interesting but they won't give much info on everyday street use. I just did a search thru autozone for a replacement slave cylinder with no results.
Do you have a specific part #, it would really help. Good luck and thanks.

Speedway motors also stocks the Howe t.o. bearing.

 

Try Advanced Auto for your search or even calling the store if there is a local one near you, I will get the part number tonight and respond later tonight or tomorrow. I dont' believe the HOWE T.O. baering will throw far enough.

 

Tried an Advance Auto search, only came up with plastic slave cylinder. Brand and part# would be very helpful. Thanks

 

I got mine at Autozone. I am not sure of the part number but it was like 50 bucks and it was just the slave cylinder. You just have to punch out a pin and then the fitting on the end of the line will come out of the cylinder. I believe the LT-1 cars had the braided line but I am not sure if the fittings on the end will fit into the T-5 slave cylinders. It couldn't hurt to take the new aluminum slave to the store and ask for an LT-1 line and see if it fits. If that doesn't work then maybe you could just go to a hydraulics company that could fab you a line with the correct fittings.

 

Re: "I believe the LT-1 cars had the braided line but I am not sure if the fittings on the end will fit into the T-5 slave cylinders. It couldn't hurt to take the new aluminum slave to the store and ask for an LT-1 line and see if it fits. If that doesn't work then maybe you could just go to a hydraulics company that could fab you a line with the correct fittings."

The fittings won't be a problem, if I could just find a metal slave cylinder. Right now I'm planning on putting a brass inner sleeve into the plastic line with a compression fitting/ring setup, but I realy would feel better with a metal slave that I could solidly thread a braided or hard line to. Anybody out there know where I can get a metal replacement slave cyl. for my '88 T-5 setup?
Thanks

By the way,
GASGZLR...what procedure did you use to bleed the s.c.?

 

Advanced auto is where I got mine, model # cs 37821 made by Tru Torque. There is also a wagner # on the packaging, #F 126869. It is a aluminum slave cylinder, packaged by itself. Hope this helps and good luck, I'm still searching for my answer.

 

Cat,
Thanks alot, but I found # cs 37821 made by Tru Torque on the advance auto site, and it looks just like my plastic one.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=236&PTSet=A


Any ideas?

 

Airbrushguy, you just unbolt the slave and let it hang down at a 45 degree angle so that the bleeder screw is at the highest point of the slave cylinder, then you make sure there is fluid in the little cup at the top. Next you open the screw and get somone to push down the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there, then close the screw BEFORE they release the pedal. Once it's closed then you have them let the pedal back up to the top. Now open the screw as they begin to push it down again and close it again at the bottom. Keep doing this until fluid comes out of the screw. Then once fluid comes out you may notice bubbles, keep bleeding it until there are no more bubbles.

Position the slave like this:

 

I would take the part number to the folks at the parts store or call them directly they should be able to check their stock and tell you if the ones they carry are aluminum or palstic.
gasglzr has provided a pretty nice looking diagram and bleeding instructions, if I stay with hydraulic I'll keep this info handy thanks gasglzr!!.

 

If you dont have any sucess with a parts store in your areas I can check around here where I got mine. If I find one I 'll give you the # of the store to call and you can have it shipped to you.

 

Thanks, Cat. I'd really appreciate that.

 

I just called 7 auto parts stores in my area, they all have plastic ones. Sorry.

 

Guess I'm back to SQUARE ONE, unless somebody else knows where to get a metallic slave cylinder.

 

Anybody? Anything?

 

I tried NAPA, auto zone, advanced auto, fisher auto parts, mardis wholesale, and harveys supply and to avail. I know one of the guys at advanced auto, when i get there again I'll see if they can specifically order one of the aluminum type. Your still going to somehow have to get t the line connected to the slave and the master.

 

Thanks, Cat. Anything is greatly appreciated.

 

where is this pin, is it right under the clutch line fitting?? because I broke off the clutch line fitting and i just tried easy out and it just spun, and spun, if i could just get that out and get a line, then i could just buy a line, but i cant figure out how to get that end of the line off
Thanks
Joe

 

I know this sounds like big advertising but I sale what you guys need for the SS braided slave cyl lines and aluminum slave cyl... i offer warranties too.
firestarperformance.com click the catalog.
The slave cyl lines are a bit pricey but that is because the roll pin to an 4 fittings you need to make it work are $85 from mcleod industries...
let me know... i will be more than happy to show you how to make it too!

to take the stock lines off there is a small roll pin facing the front of the clutch master cyl. if you were to look at it you would just see a small metal circle.. I made a tool to remove it, outta a small hex T handle and grinded the hex poinit down. push it in the pin comes out, same for the slave cyl...
These fittings I sell pop back in there and prevent you from having to remove the roll pin again since the line has an AN 4 fitting that just screws on.

 

A couple years ago, when I had my '85 T/A, I got an aluminum slave cylinder from Autozone. I think it might have been for a V6 application but it worked with my V8 stuff. I want to say it was made by Brakeware.

 

couple years ago? right about when this thread was started? i didnt even realize it when I posted

 

hey nelapse, I just looked at your site and I need that alum slave bad. It says the slave is optional, do I have to get the line to get the slave or can I just buy the slave? Also I didn't find anything saying what payment methods you accept. Thank You

 

I just replaced mine a few months ago , both where metal replacements and I used my stock hose. got em off amazon.

http://a.co/d/gIjpOy7

http://a.co/d/7nG76n9

 

wow a 12 year old post back from the dead.....lol

 

Let's now make it "16". Interesting reading. Glad I found it here.

 

Lets add a few more years...

Just started here for my search of a metal Slave cylinder. Mine burst yesterday during an Autocross event !

This is what I found so far
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...BoCzOAQAvD_BwE