T56 vs Beefed up 700r4 manual valve body
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From: Long Neck, De
Car: 2002 SS
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
T56 vs Beefed up 700r4 manual valve body
I'm in a dilema, pretty soon i'm going to start my performance build up and still am not sure which one to go for. My car is currently automatic. T56 i would have to swap all over to manual. And a manual valve body just bolt in a 700r4. I want to be able to shift. But nothings better then some clutch shifting action. I plan on around 450hp at the crank. I would have to get a beefed up 700r4 ordered then get a manual valve body if i wanted auto set up. T56 pswew hole nother story. Anyone have their opinions for me.
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From: Sicklerville,NJ
Car: 87 Buick Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Intercooled Turbo
Transmission: 200R4 3000 Stall
it depends on what youll use it for. if you want somthing to carve corners with- definatly go with the t56. if you want somthing to go in a straight line- go auto all the way. it all depends on your setup and what you want it for- i love my 200r4 with my ratchet shifter in my g body- i also loved the t5 in the camaro thatll soon be a richmond 6 speed hopefully.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,855
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
You don't need a manual valve body for a 700r4 pushing the hp you want. The probuilt 700r4 will do everything you need. I have 450 hp at the crank and my tranny is fully automatic and I still autocross it. I keep it in 2nd gear since the courses around here are short and tight, and when I want 1st gear, I floor it andd it downshifts. 1st and 2nd gears are all you need for an autocross course. Roadracing you need all 4.
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From: Long Neck, De
Car: 2002 SS
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
I'm not course racing either. It's a show/ cruise car with like a 12 sec run all motor. So its not strictly raced out. Its gunna be bagged so it wont be any heart pounding corner turning car. I'm thinking maybe t56
Good friend of mine helped me with this subject awhile back. It all boils down to your engine combo(cam, intake, etc) and the gear spread. For example, there is Supras out there running 11's @ 130 . With an auto the car would be around 10 flat on the ET side. If your cam is big and/or the intake's runners are short then a t56 would be a better choice. YOu don't want a close ratio transmission with a wide power band. Shift recovery is everything.
What is your engine specs?
What is your engine specs?
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Thread Starter
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From: Long Neck, De
Car: 2002 SS
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
heres the specs as i will build the motor, its a 350 vortec out of a truck so i think i'm going to use these vortec heads as well. thinken 450 at the crank around 380 at the wheels, should be in the 12;s somewhere, then later on possible use some nos to get me high 11's
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From: Long Neck, De
Car: 2002 SS
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
HEAD WORK
Cut the guide OD to .530", so you can use the Teflon valve guide seals. You should also get the stock pull-out studs pulled out, and the holes milled & drilled & tapped for screw-in studs; and use good quality studs, and guide plates. That way you don't have to use self-aligning rockers. Your choices are much more varied.
Push Rod whole’s have to opened up to .500” or ½” to suffice for the 1.6 Rockers
Carb
750
Crank
Scat 9000 Crank Crankshaft 350 Chevy Chevrolet sb sbc=200$
Cam
XR282
Rockers
Comp 1302 1.6 roller rockers
Valves
Manley "Street Flow" valves, with undercut heads
Cut the guide OD to .530", so you can use the Teflon valve guide seals. You should also get the stock pull-out studs pulled out, and the holes milled & drilled & tapped for screw-in studs; and use good quality studs, and guide plates. That way you don't have to use self-aligning rockers. Your choices are much more varied.
Push Rod whole’s have to opened up to .500” or ½” to suffice for the 1.6 Rockers
Carb
750
Crank
Scat 9000 Crank Crankshaft 350 Chevy Chevrolet sb sbc=200$
Cam
XR282
Rockers
Comp 1302 1.6 roller rockers
Valves
Manley "Street Flow" valves, with undercut heads
Maybe go a step down on the cam, your combo is better suited for an auto. The vortec heads make a ton of low end power. Using a manual or high stall speed would just slow ya down! You can manually shift a 700R4 with the stock valve body. Not sure why someone would need to have a manual VB...
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