ok, i figured out that the reason i poped my slave was the fact that there was too much travel for the push rod. can a longer TO bearing fix this problem? I tried to adjust the stupid pivot point but i cant budge that screw and all my 10mm allen does is spin out of it.

 

Yes they make longer TO bearings. They are for clutches for 6-cyl cars and the like. The correct clutch for one of these cars uses the short one.

What clutch have you got? Sounds like the wrong one.

 

its a centerforce, i think its a Dual friction. Im not 100% because got it used with the trans. It has very little wear on it, got it with the WC T5 that i bought. I dont know why, but it seems i need a longer pushrod on the slave for it to work propery. A longer TO bearing would solve this correct? I had to buy a new flywheel (trans came from a 1-piece main car, mine is a 2 piece) but i dont think that would be a problem would it?

 

If it's the right clutch, and you're POSITIVE of that, then no, you don't need a longer throwout bearing. Something is still installed incorrectly.

All that stuff just bolts up and works when it's put together right. There's a fairly enormous amount of tolerance built into the whole arrangement, to allow for quite a bit of variation in the parts. If your parts are outside the range that the system can tolerate, and you're SURE THEY'RE THE RIGHT PARTS, then they're put together wrong.

Figure out what's wrong, instead of looking for ways to hack and rig the car. You'll be alot happier with it in the long run.

No, the flywheel doesn't have anything to do with it. Just to give you an idea, I ran a 73 model 400, a 91 T-5, 1 83 flywheel, a CF DF clutch, and either a 84 (I think) or 91 bell housing in my 83 car, that I had converted to hydraulic using whatever hydraulics the dealer had in stock at the moment, which I think was listed for about 88 or 89 cars. That's how interchangeable all that stuff is, IF YOU PUT IT TOGETHER RIGHT.

 

well, im not really sure what to look for... i mean everything is bolted in and lined up..... i know because you have responded with a particular pic about 1000 times and i have seen it in searches, but could a TO bearing that was installed wrong cause my problem? Also.... who's to say that the idiots at auto zone didnt sell me the wrong one do you have measurements of the corect one so i can check?

 

Unfortunately I don't have a pic of the TO brg here at work... I think I have one in my home machine though. But it's not hard to describe. The correct TO bearing has no more than 1/8" between the groove where the fork goes, and the beginning of the wide part where the actual bearing itself is. The "tall" bearing, for the weaker low-perf clutches, has more like 3/8" of "neck" in that spot. The correct bearing is the shortest one they make, so any wrong TO bearing you could possibly have, wouldn't produce this symptom.

Something it occurs to me I haven't mentioned, is to make sure the fork is on the ball stud correctly. If it's not, you can end up with too much fork on one side of the pivot and not enough on the other, and the "leverage" factor will be WAY off. There'a another little spring clip thing on it, that's supposed to hold it clipped onto the stud. If that's bent or broken, your fork may be off its correct pivot.

 

not wanting to pull the damn trans out over and over again, can i put togther everything: bell fork, TO bearing hydro linkage yada yada yada and leave the trans disconnected and push the pedal so i can watch everything and see whats going on? the trans doesnt have to be in there for the clutch assembly to go through the motions right? sorry for all the dumb questions.

 

The input shaft and bearing retainer - which is what the TO bearing slides on - need to be in place, or everything will go all jabberwocky when you depress the pedal. The easiest way to hold all that stuff in proper alignment is, with the trans attached to them.
The slave cylinder is self-adjusting, and the throw spec for the rod is 0.58".
Two other possible problems might be the wrong fork - using a V6 one instead of a V8 piece; or, a bent fork.

 

Here's the correct throwout bearing.