Price range (or difficulty) of installing shift kit? Q's about stall converters too.
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro Gunmetal Gray with
Engine: GM Crate ZZZ HO 350, Edelbrock head
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 all TransGo and Beast
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.73 gears
Price range (or difficulty) of installing shift kit? Q's about stall converters too.
Hello. I was wondering if it was difficult at all to install a B&M shift kit into a stock 700r4. I do not have much mechanical experience at all. Also, if I were to get it done somewhere, how much does it usually cost?
I also had some questions about stall converters. What kind of advantages do they give you, and do you think I could benefit from having one. I have been told that my motor might be tearing up my transmission because of the amount of power I am making. I have a ZZZ (also known as zz1 i think) motor, and some 3.73 gears.
And finally, if I were to get a stall converter, would it just be worth it to take it to a shop and get it all installed together. And again, how much should this cost on average?
Thank you so much for all of your help.
I also had some questions about stall converters. What kind of advantages do they give you, and do you think I could benefit from having one. I have been told that my motor might be tearing up my transmission because of the amount of power I am making. I have a ZZZ (also known as zz1 i think) motor, and some 3.73 gears.
And finally, if I were to get a stall converter, would it just be worth it to take it to a shop and get it all installed together. And again, how much should this cost on average?
Thank you so much for all of your help.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: '85 TA
Engine: 350 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 posi 9bolt
Installing a shift kit doesn't require much mechanical experience, rather a lot of time. It took me around 8 hours straight to install the B&M kit into my 700r4.
As far as paying a shop to install the stuff, you should call around and ask. That's the only sure way to know.
As far as paying a shop to install the stuff, you should call around and ask. That's the only sure way to know.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I got quoted $300 to have a trans go shift kit installed... Good thing I didn't because I blew the trans two weeks later... And do you mean you have the ZZ4 Crate motor??? Another thing, what are your plans for this car? Drag Racing? Daily Driver?
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro Gunmetal Gray with
Engine: GM Crate ZZZ HO 350, Edelbrock head
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 all TransGo and Beast
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.73 gears
No, it is a ZZ1. I messed up when making my username. I was told that the motor was a zz series 350. the zz4 is pretty much the same thing, its just based on the 4th generation of chevy small block. mine is based off the first generation. there is also a zz2 and zz3. as for my plans, i want to make a car that is good for the street and the strip, but yes, it is a daily driver. i dont drive much though. thanks for the info.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 420
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Well for drag racing a stall convertor will definatley help you out. The price of them is very wide... some $400. You just have to look around. I don't know how much it would be to put one in. Your best bet would be to install it yourself, but if you don't know how then taking it somewhere would be the best. Just start by calling around your area.
I put in a TransGo shift kit in my 700r4 last year ...it was the first time I was ever under a car
The only thing I did before that was gut a couple of TBI units. It really wasn't that difficult, but there are several areas where you could severely screw up if you aren't careful. All in all, if you take your time and don't do anything stupid you should get it done in a day or two. It took me two days because I put a wrong spring back in and had to take the whole thing apart again (I wasn't pleased, to say the least, when the car wouldn't shift out of first
)
You won't need any specialized tools. So I suggest if you aren't a total block-head then you should give it a go (but hey, you mustn't be a total block-head 'cause if you were you'd have a mustang right?
) Just take your time and don't start drilling holes if you're not sure of what you're doing.
By the way, one of the bolts on my trans base pan was frozen on and I twisted it off when I was taking the pan off ...major pain in the ***. I had to drill the bolt out. It really was the first time I've taken a bolt off the car so I was learning the hard way. Be safe and give the bolts a few squirts of liquid wrench before you go at it. And if any of them feel stiff back off, let them cool down for a few seconds and go slow.
The only thing I did before that was gut a couple of TBI units. It really wasn't that difficult, but there are several areas where you could severely screw up if you aren't careful. All in all, if you take your time and don't do anything stupid you should get it done in a day or two. It took me two days because I put a wrong spring back in and had to take the whole thing apart again (I wasn't pleased, to say the least, when the car wouldn't shift out of first
)You won't need any specialized tools. So I suggest if you aren't a total block-head then you should give it a go (but hey, you mustn't be a total block-head 'cause if you were you'd have a mustang right?
) Just take your time and don't start drilling holes if you're not sure of what you're doing.By the way, one of the bolts on my trans base pan was frozen on and I twisted it off when I was taking the pan off ...major pain in the ***. I had to drill the bolt out. It really was the first time I've taken a bolt off the car so I was learning the hard way. Be safe and give the bolts a few squirts of liquid wrench before you go at it. And if any of them feel stiff back off, let them cool down for a few seconds and go slow.
Last edited by Casey_Butt; Sep 1, 2005 at 07:47 PM.
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro Gunmetal Gray with
Engine: GM Crate ZZZ HO 350, Edelbrock head
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 all TransGo and Beast
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.73 gears
Alright, I can take it to my school and show the teachers the directions. I don't have any tools here, and I can't do it in my driveway. Did you support the car on anything when you did it? And didn't you need to support the vavle body as well. The only things I have done to my car in the couple months I have had it is replace the air filters, put in a new gauge cluster, and put in a cd player. So mostly electronic stuff. Thanks for the help though.
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I did the shift kit before I had jack stands, so I drove the two front tires up on ramps (the steel ones you can get at any hardware store - probably Walmart). Unless you're really skinny you'll need the front of the bar lifted at least a bit. The extra room makes it a lot more comfortable! I did the rear end with the car raised off the tires about a foot. You get to appreciate working space after a few days on your back
For a shift kit you won't need to raise it much though.
I don't know about the B&M kit, but with the TransGo kit the valve body didn't have to be supported because you remove it from the transmission in order to modify it.
Essentially, you get under the car, remove the pan, wires and valve body, etc, take the valve body inside and drill some holes in it, plug some others in the steel plate that goes over the valve body and put it all back together. There are also some springs and valves that have to be replaced. One was particularly irritating because it has to be done under the car, snap ring pliers would really come in handy. If not you'll have to be real tenacious with some needle nose ones.
If you do have to support the valve body (I can't see why though) it wouldn't be too hard. Its only a plate about a half-inch thick - doesn't weight more than a few pounds. I can't see why you wouldn't just take it off though - there are a dozen or so little bolts - that's all.
As for a higher stall speed, it depends on where your engine starts to make its power. Most high performance engines will be comparatively weaker in the lower RPMs so a higher stall speed allows you to rev the car higher before you actually launch - so you're bypassing the weaker range of the engine and getting it into its power zone.
The newer GM crate engines I've seen have plenty of low-end torque (they're all using hyd. roller cams that have short enough duration to make good low end but also enough area under the opening curve to make some decent mid and "upper" range power as well). With an engine like that you won't need a higher stall speed on the street but you might cut some time on the track by getting a torque converter with a stall somewhere in the 2000-2500 range.
They appear real easy to install - if you can get the transmission down or the motor out that is
I'm putting one in myself this fall (motor and trans is coming out tomorrow!!). By the way, if you're going to have some decent power and a higher stall speed I think you'd definitely be wise to get a transmission cooler. It wouldn't hurt to rebuild the 700r4 with a good kit (depends on how much torque you'll have). I'm rebuilding my trans too. *** help me
For a shift kit you won't need to raise it much though.I don't know about the B&M kit, but with the TransGo kit the valve body didn't have to be supported because you remove it from the transmission in order to modify it.
Essentially, you get under the car, remove the pan, wires and valve body, etc, take the valve body inside and drill some holes in it, plug some others in the steel plate that goes over the valve body and put it all back together. There are also some springs and valves that have to be replaced. One was particularly irritating because it has to be done under the car, snap ring pliers would really come in handy. If not you'll have to be real tenacious with some needle nose ones.
If you do have to support the valve body (I can't see why though) it wouldn't be too hard. Its only a plate about a half-inch thick - doesn't weight more than a few pounds. I can't see why you wouldn't just take it off though - there are a dozen or so little bolts - that's all.
As for a higher stall speed, it depends on where your engine starts to make its power. Most high performance engines will be comparatively weaker in the lower RPMs so a higher stall speed allows you to rev the car higher before you actually launch - so you're bypassing the weaker range of the engine and getting it into its power zone.
The newer GM crate engines I've seen have plenty of low-end torque (they're all using hyd. roller cams that have short enough duration to make good low end but also enough area under the opening curve to make some decent mid and "upper" range power as well). With an engine like that you won't need a higher stall speed on the street but you might cut some time on the track by getting a torque converter with a stall somewhere in the 2000-2500 range.
They appear real easy to install - if you can get the transmission down or the motor out that is
I'm putting one in myself this fall (motor and trans is coming out tomorrow!!). By the way, if you're going to have some decent power and a higher stall speed I think you'd definitely be wise to get a transmission cooler. It wouldn't hurt to rebuild the 700r4 with a good kit (depends on how much torque you'll have). I'm rebuilding my trans too. *** help me
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Originally posted by Casey_Butt
I'm rebuilding my trans too. *** help me
I'm rebuilding my trans too. *** help me
I'm gonna set up a camcorder and tape the whole thing. So if I forget where something went I can see it on the tape
When it's done I'll download some shots.
You can buy videos of 700r4s being rebuilt - I'm going to do that as well.
I can't stand the thought of another man's hands all over my girl ...I have to do it myself
When it's done I'll download some shots.You can buy videos of 700r4s being rebuilt - I'm going to do that as well.
I can't stand the thought of another man's hands all over my girl ...I have to do it myself
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro Gunmetal Gray with
Engine: GM Crate ZZZ HO 350, Edelbrock head
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 all TransGo and Beast
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.73 gears
wow thanks for the great description. i go to shcool in an auto body class, and there is a mechanics class too. i can bring my own car in to work on it if i want to, so lifting the car and having all the tools i need will not be a problem. i also have a few friends in the class that know how to do it, and im sure the tech teacher knows how. thanks a lot.
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Aug 11, 2015 11:50 PM
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