hey im having some trubles with my car and it wont shift this started after i switched from a tbi 305 to a carbed 350. would this have anything to do with it since my computer isnt hooked up or is the tranny bad or what even if someone can tell me how the car knows when to shift that may help
thanx

 

TV cable adjusted properly?

 

the computer controls the lockup on the 700r4. you have to get the kit to eliminate the need for the computer at summit.

 

the govenor controls when the car shifts. if you aren't shifting at all, something might be caught in the govenor. you can pull it out and check it. the computer has nothing to do with shift points on a 700r4. at best it does the lock-up.

 

btw, on a 700r4, if you don't have anyway to get it to lock-up, you need to. this will ruin a 700r4

 

The torque converter lockup does not need to be hooked up if the transmission is an 85 or later. Only 82 - 84 700r4's will be damaged without it.]

 

how come everyone is always trying to discredit the other ones advise

 

i don't take it as larry trying to discredit what i said. he could very well be correct. i just thought that it would burn up the torque convertor. i don't see what difference the year makes so maybe larry would care to enlighten us. they all use a solenoid and valve assembly in the pump to lock-up the tc, the early ones just used a valve train in the valve body to help it out. the later ones eliminated this valve train. others on this sight tend to agree with me on the lock-up thing. no lock-up can cause higher temps at cruising speeds.

 

I have found this information on several different transmission websites.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700r4.htm

"If you have a 1982-83-84 car or truck never drive it with the wires on the side of the transmission unplugged. This will overheat the transmission on a long trip. On a 1985 or later it is O K to have the wires unplugged, because of a design change made in late 1984. The only part of this transmission that is electronic is the torque converter lockup. You will still have all four speeds with the wires unplugged."

 

No disrespect intended, This is just some information I came across recently. And I agree that no lockup will increase the temperature of the transmission. I also read that the gas mileage increase by using the lockup was more from the reduced friction than from the rpm drop. I am thinking (but not sure) that with the old 27 spline input shaft, fluid was not routed to the transmission cooler unless the torque converter was locked up. I drove my old TPI s-10 for several years with no lockup (87 transmission). But only because I was to lazy to fix it. I would only disconnect it if it was causing a problem.

 

since my computer isnt being used would it even matter if the wires are hooked up on the tranny or not????

 

Ok... First things first. if you did not replace the TV cable when you did the swap. the TV cable from the TBI system will be to long, You will need a new TV cable.. the shifting of the transmission has alot to do with that cable. Go to the parts store and get yourself a TV cable made for a carbed application. they are different lengths (just got one myself since the trans I bought used had a TBI cable and I have a carb.) Second, Make sure you have the proper bracket for the TV cable.. if you do not you will run into problems later on.

The question about the computer is an unknown for me.. I have not tried to disconnect the wire harness from it yet. I suppose you could always try and see what happenes. worse thing is the car does not start.

But yea.. the TV cable is what you need to look at. the cable is more than likely to long as I stated above and can not be properly adjusted.

 

Without the TV cable the trans should be shifting early...

But either way if you dont have a TV cable on there get one, the TV cable controls the pressures in the tranny and you will find yourself with a burnt out tranny pretty fast.

 

ya my tv cable is fine its shifting fine i just wont to know if i need to hood up the wires to the tranny.
thanx tho

 

I donno
but don't worry you can put oatmeal in the oil to thicken it up. works better then oil addatives.

don't discredit what I say though



yes I know a little extream of a point but the reason people try to say something contrary to what was said before is it is better to spread correct information then just not saying anything to "discredit" them and allow them to spread incorrect information.


now to remove any liability for what I'm saying above
the oatmeal comment is false. you put oatmeal in your motor you will fry it.

I'm not saying anyone is wrong so far just explaining why someone might try to disprove someone else

 

many th350's didn't have a lockup so whats different.

not trying to say your wrong I'm just curious

 

we were talking about 700r4's. th350's are a totally different transmission. early 700r4=pre-86
late700r4=87-up


th350 has a couple different components between lock-up and non lock-up

 

I can read what your talking about but what you said doesn't explain my question

 

the non lock-up th350's don't have a lock-up clutch in the torque converter to produce heat when not in use. unless the 700r4 has a special built converter, they all have a lock-up clutch to produce heat.

 

Some people will say it produces too much heat while not locked up and some will argue otherwise.


Personally i have a TH350C behind my 350 and its been running fine without the lockup wired up for about 10 years. Its got no special cooling just the good ol' tank in the rad.

 

When i was too dumb and young to realize that my TCC went bad on my 89' the tranny over heated and started slipping real bad and was eventually replaced. I dont anything about early or late 700's but i know what happened to mine. Im not "discrediting" ANYONE.

 

Your all discredited...

 

If it is stuck in 1st gear no matter what you do the it can only be a stripped govenor gear

 

 

The TCC stopped locking on my 1983 years ago, before I got it. Cruising down the highway it was turning 2,200 RPM, I noticed that on downhill runs it would drop to 1,800 and on hills it would jump to 2,400. I got to thinking something was not right. Turned out that the vacuum hose to the vacuum switch was disconnected at the Thermal Vacuum Switch and a vacuum cap was in its place. At that time I redid all the vacuum hoses under the hood and brought everything back into proper operation. My cruise RPM then went to 1,800 at all times, with brief periods of 2,400 RPM when the Vac dropped below 8 in/hg and deactivated the switch. Fuel mileage went from 12 to 18+ with no other changes. Just by making sure the TCC, Vacuum advance, and EGR were functioning properly.

I drove my 1983 700r4 for like 3 years without a TCC. It NEVER overheated or burned the fluid. Then again I have the factory Tow package with both the in-radiator cooler and a monster cooler in front of the condensor. Good cooling is vital to keeping a 700r4 alive. My stock transmission ran for 265,000 miles and it was supposed to be the crappiest year for it. It was still pulling just fine when I pulled it, just was making alot of whining noises due to being just flat worn out. Pull around 5,300 lbs or aerodynamic brick often pulling 2,500+ lbs behind it and you see why it would be tired.

 

B&M makes a non-lockup converter that does not ever lockup..... you can have it any way you want it...