Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

How do I determine what RPM stall my torque converter should have?

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Old May 12, 2006 | 09:57 AM
  #1  
firebirdjosh's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
How do I determine what RPM stall my torque converter should have?

I have a 355 with this cam in it:
COMPETITION CAMS
-270H MAGNUM CAM SPECS-
Valve Adjustment: hydraulic
Gross valve lift: .470" intake/ exhaust with 1.5 to 1 rockers
Duration at .006" Tappet Lift: 270 degrees intake/ exhaust
Duration @ .050": 224 degrees intake/ exhaust
Lobe lift: .313" intake/ exhaust

open close
intake 29 BTDC 61 ABDC
exhaust 69 BBDC 21 ATDC
Lobe Separation Angle is 110 degrees with 106 degree intake centerline
STRAIGHT UP = 106 degrees; cam is ground 4 degrees advanced
Operating range 1800 to 5800 rpm

I'm not sure what else is needed. It's a stock 700R4, soon to have 3.45 gears.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:04 AM
  #2  
sofakingdom's Avatar
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Take it to the chassis dyno.

Whatever RPM the motor's peak torque occurs at, get a converter with a stall about 200 RPM below that, for optimum launch. That might be a bit excessive on the street though.

I'd guess you'll want something in the 3200 RPM range. Maybe as low as 2800 if it's a street driver most of the time.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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firebirdjosh's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Well that's easy enough, thanks!
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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Yup, pretty straightforward.

Just temper the "max effort" result from the chassis dyno approach, with however little common sense you can get away with for the street (if any).

Shift at the RPMs that when you hit the new gear, you're back at your peak torque RPM. Which should put you shifting at or just above the peak HP RPM. Don't wind it up any farther, you'll slow the car down. And of course, shift a little earlier, so that the RPM doesn't continue to buld up while the trans is deciding to do its thing.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
After wasting my time and money being too conservative years ago with a 2200 stall, and now running a 3500 stall, I wouldn't go below 2800 if I were you and keep the lockup also. Stay away from b&m convertors also.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Call Andre at Edge(www.edgeracingconverters.com ). He will tell you exactly what you need. He is one of the best converter guys on the planet Edge converters are also one of the best out there. Remember, with the possible exception of camshafts, "You get what you pay for" is more true with torque converters than any other performance part.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 02:44 AM
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally Posted by 89gta383
Stay away from b&m convertors also.
Why's that?
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:21 PM
  #8  
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally Posted by firebirdjosh
Why's that?
They don't last, they are innefficient and generate to much heat. They are typically useless below their stall speed, and not overly streetable. They are also a few tenths slower than a comparable "quality" converter like Edge, Vigilante, Yank. they are "off the shelf" and not taylored specifically to your car and your engine. Often, their actual stall and their rated stall aren't the same. Hot Rod(?) just built a car with a B&M in it, it turned out their 3000 rates B&M was actually stalling at 4,000, well above what their cam could handle. The build quality just isn't there either. Remember, when a converter goes, it takes the trans with it.
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