Is Transgo the way to GO?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: '92 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: Unknown 9 Bolt Posi, 3.73s
Is Transgo the way to GO?
I am picking one of these up for christmas... I heard these were the best for my 700R-4. So I still have stock gears and I am going to upgrade those ASAP, but will the transgo still be effective without the new gears?
And how difficult is the kit to install?
-Thanks
And how difficult is the kit to install?
-Thanks
The Transgo kit should improve your transmission no matter what rearend gears you're running, and from what the 700r4 gurus on here say, the Transgo kit is the best one to use hands down. As far as being hard to install, they offer two different kits. Their basic kit is supposed to be pretty simple to install, and you can do it with the trans still in the car. Their other kit requires removing the trans and a fair amount of disassembly. Most guys say to get the complete kit and just install the basic stuff, then hang onto the rest of the kit and put it in if you ever have the trans rebuilt. You ought to get in touch with Dana at Pro-Built Automatics. He offers the Transgo kits and also offers unparallelled tech assistance for free if you purchase a kit from him. He's also a member here, so you can send him a PM or just go to his website. His user name on here is Pro-Built Automatics.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 6
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Bowtie Overdrives rates their STOCK LEVEL 1 700R4 at 350HP capable ($900). meaning if you installed that TransGo into your car (Saying it has 300 or less HP) then the trans-go would be awesome. Just watch it because make a car shift harder and quicker is causing wear and tear quicker...so maybe build it up a little then put the full kit in. Thats IMO and go with what you want....because even though I ask questions on here and many people might be against what I choose in the ned I am still going to choose what I want.....so SHYT TRY IT OUT.
No offense to Pro-Built but they dont have any other tranny's other then their 650hp capable $1800 tranny, do they have lower cost tranny's or is thast ALL they do is build monsterous tranny's?
No offense to Pro-Built but they dont have any other tranny's other then their 650hp capable $1800 tranny, do they have lower cost tranny's or is thast ALL they do is build monsterous tranny's?
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 1
From: louisville, ky
Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
i use the transgo shift kits and you don't need to remove the tranny for any part of it. you have to remove the pan and valve body, but that is it.
The idea is for firm quick shifts, the firmer the shifts the better it is for the clutches since they don't slip as much during shifts. Talk to dana at Pro-Built, you won't be sorry.
I have 4 different transmissions for the 700R4. Pro Street, Street/Strip, Road Race, & the Heavy Duty transmission. The HP ratings go from 475HP through 675+HP. I also offer the different level HP rebuild kits. Which one are you looking at? I H8 WWD, I wish that was all that I did when it came to transmission rebuilding was "Monsterous Tranny's". I prefer to help people build their own units, using my rebuild kits, information, and direction.
Last edited by Pro Built Automatics; Dec 12, 2006 at 02:31 AM.
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 6
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
I need a brand new transmission that will support my future mods fine but without being expensive. Here is the deal, Bowtie Overdrives has a Level 1 Tranny (0 miles on it) that supports 350hp....which I wont be reaching for a while....at least until I complete this 305 with some mad mods or buy a 350. So their cost is $900 for their 350hp capable 0 miled 700r4 trans. What do you have that is competitive with this? I would like to know since you are very popular amongst F-Buddies. LMAO. You like that......Ha hA F-Buddies.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 2
From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
I'll tell u this.
I havent used Pro_Built for a trans, but I have talked to him at length about issues and problems that I was having.
The man knows his stuff and helped desgin a lot of parts that others use in their own 700's.
I live close to Jimmy's Transmission whom PB has worked with(developing parts) and vouched for so I went there since it is local to me(relatively speaking).
U get what u pay for when it comes to transmission. I also wouldnt hesitate to use him if no other acceptable local alternatives were available to me
later
Jeremy
I havent used Pro_Built for a trans, but I have talked to him at length about issues and problems that I was having.
The man knows his stuff and helped desgin a lot of parts that others use in their own 700's.
I live close to Jimmy's Transmission whom PB has worked with(developing parts) and vouched for so I went there since it is local to me(relatively speaking).
U get what u pay for when it comes to transmission. I also wouldnt hesitate to use him if no other acceptable local alternatives were available to me
later
Jeremy
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 6
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Whats your cheapest, bestest trans for holding 350hp? or yours are more so whats your cheapest (0 MILES) trans.
My problem is I only have around $2500 to spend on my car. I need all this plus the trans.
2 new door locks with hatch
STEERING COLUMN VATS (WITH KEY WITH CHIP)
new hood
new manifold
new cap & rotor
new radiator
new hoses (all)
intake
ALL FLUIDS
ac delete box
tires
brakes
front and rear hood/trunk struts
fuel pump & filter
alternator
battery (optima ONLY)
starter
new OIL PAN (old one has dent)(small)
new steering brace (sponh)
temp sensor
o2 sensors
front and rear stuts/shocks
steering wheel
Center console lid
waterneck
water pump
belt (serpentine)
spark plugs
trans cooler
ALL NEW LUG NUTS (Dumbass used an impact)
I think thats everything but seriously I am not sure. But yes I need all that, plus installed.
My problem is I only have around $2500 to spend on my car. I need all this plus the trans.
2 new door locks with hatch
STEERING COLUMN VATS (WITH KEY WITH CHIP)
new hood
new manifold
new cap & rotor
new radiator
new hoses (all)
intake
ALL FLUIDS
ac delete box
tires
brakes
front and rear hood/trunk struts
fuel pump & filter
alternator
battery (optima ONLY)
starter
new OIL PAN (old one has dent)(small)
new steering brace (sponh)
temp sensor
o2 sensors
front and rear stuts/shocks
steering wheel
Center console lid
waterneck
water pump
belt (serpentine)
spark plugs
trans cooler
ALL NEW LUG NUTS (Dumbass used an impact)
I think thats everything but seriously I am not sure. But yes I need all that, plus installed.
Last edited by I H8 WWD; Dec 12, 2006 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Moer info
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 227
Likes: 1
From: SW Iowa
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 406, CF heads, Comp 212/218, Rhoads
Transmission: WC T5, 0.61 option
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt 3.08, re-ground Auburn Posi
Look at my sig. That didn't happen all in one shot. I started with a good, straight '88 Formula back in '97. I took 9 months to build the 305 up to about 360 horses. Then 3 years later I took 2 months to set up and install the 406. I've been tuning the computer for going on 3 years now. Exhaust, cooling, and everything else came in between. Suspension and new paint are yet to come. Plus a head upgrade.
I'm in no hurry, and having a ball. My "budget" for all this has never been more than $500 at a time. Sometimes less than $50.
And yeah, I'm planning to convert from T5 to 700R4. Must be getting lazy in my old age. I don't know who's kits I'll ultimately buy, but I'll definitely take a month or two to build it, and do it right. Might take me 3 or 4 months just to buy the parts. It's the budget thing. The advantage is, I get the best of exactly what I want, without settling for second-best.
Decide what's most important, look at your budget, and do those things that you can. Call that "Phase 1." Then start planning the next phase. Then as budget allows, do more.
If you think you have to do it all, all at once, you might end up with a cobbled-up mess that was just thrown together. Don't do it!
Last edited by SR-71; Dec 13, 2006 at 10:19 AM.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 1
From: louisville, ky
Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
only well to do/rich people get it all at once. most of us have taken years on our project. i've had mine for 10 years and still making mods to it. Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 6
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Man, you need to plan out your project by priorities, and let it take some time. You can spend a lot more money on it if you don't think you have to do it all at once. Life is short, but not that short.
Look at my sig. That didn't happen all in one shot. I started with a good, straight '88 Formula back in '97. I took 9 months to build the 305 up to about 360 horses. Then 3 years later I took 2 months to set up and install the 406. I've been tuning the computer for going on 3 years now. Exhaust, cooling, and everything else came in between. Suspension and new paint are yet to come. Plus a head upgrade.
I'm in no hurry, and having a ball. My "budget" for all this has never been more than $500 at a time. Sometimes less than $50.
And yeah, I'm planning to convert from T5 to 700R4. Must be getting lazy in my old age. I don't know who's kits I'll ultimately buy, but I'll definitely take a month or two to build it, and do it right. Might take me 3 or 4 months just to buy the parts. It's the budget thing. The advantage is, I get the best of exactly what I want, without settling for second-best.
Decide what's most important, look at your budget, and do those things that you can. Call that "Phase 1." Then start planning the next phase. Then as budget allows, do more.
If you think you have to do it all, all at once, you might end up with a cobbled-up mess that was just thrown together. Don't do it!
Look at my sig. That didn't happen all in one shot. I started with a good, straight '88 Formula back in '97. I took 9 months to build the 305 up to about 360 horses. Then 3 years later I took 2 months to set up and install the 406. I've been tuning the computer for going on 3 years now. Exhaust, cooling, and everything else came in between. Suspension and new paint are yet to come. Plus a head upgrade.
I'm in no hurry, and having a ball. My "budget" for all this has never been more than $500 at a time. Sometimes less than $50.
And yeah, I'm planning to convert from T5 to 700R4. Must be getting lazy in my old age. I don't know who's kits I'll ultimately buy, but I'll definitely take a month or two to build it, and do it right. Might take me 3 or 4 months just to buy the parts. It's the budget thing. The advantage is, I get the best of exactly what I want, without settling for second-best.
Decide what's most important, look at your budget, and do those things that you can. Call that "Phase 1." Then start planning the next phase. Then as budget allows, do more.
If you think you have to do it all, all at once, you might end up with a cobbled-up mess that was just thrown together. Don't do it!
Man, you need to plan out your project by priorities, and let it take some time. You can spend a lot more money on it if you don't think you have to do it all at once. Life is short, but not that short.
Look at my sig. That didn't happen all in one shot. I started with a good, straight '88 Formula back in '97. I took 9 months to build the 305 up to about 360 horses. Then 3 years later I took 2 months to set up and install the 406. I've been tuning the computer for going on 3 years now. Exhaust, cooling, and everything else came in between. Suspension and new paint are yet to come. Plus a head upgrade.
I'm in no hurry, and having a ball. My "budget" for all this has never been more than $500 at a time. Sometimes less than $50.
And yeah, I'm planning to convert from T5 to 700R4. Must be getting lazy in my old age. I don't know who's kits I'll ultimately buy, but I'll definitely take a month or two to build it, and do it right. Might take me 3 or 4 months just to buy the parts. It's the budget thing. The advantage is, I get the best of exactly what I want, without settling for second-best.
Decide what's most important, look at your budget, and do those things that you can. Call that "Phase 1." Then start planning the next phase. Then as budget allows, do more.
If you think you have to do it all, all at once, you might end up with a cobbled-up mess that was just thrown together. Don't do it!
Look at my sig. That didn't happen all in one shot. I started with a good, straight '88 Formula back in '97. I took 9 months to build the 305 up to about 360 horses. Then 3 years later I took 2 months to set up and install the 406. I've been tuning the computer for going on 3 years now. Exhaust, cooling, and everything else came in between. Suspension and new paint are yet to come. Plus a head upgrade.
I'm in no hurry, and having a ball. My "budget" for all this has never been more than $500 at a time. Sometimes less than $50.
And yeah, I'm planning to convert from T5 to 700R4. Must be getting lazy in my old age. I don't know who's kits I'll ultimately buy, but I'll definitely take a month or two to build it, and do it right. Might take me 3 or 4 months just to buy the parts. It's the budget thing. The advantage is, I get the best of exactly what I want, without settling for second-best.
Decide what's most important, look at your budget, and do those things that you can. Call that "Phase 1." Then start planning the next phase. Then as budget allows, do more.
If you think you have to do it all, all at once, you might end up with a cobbled-up mess that was just thrown together. Don't do it!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 6
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
LMAO. I know I know phases....but my phase 1 ends spring and without a trans I'm history.....so because what you guys have said PB mostly, I'm going to calm down and just wait and read more. Thx alot
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