does any 1 know were i could get some information about swaping a manual into my auto Trans Am I tried looking online but i just cant seem to find any info just bits an pieces. Has any one ever done this b4? I would realy appreciate some advice

 

It's a fairly common swap.

700R4 to T5 Swap

A T56 swap is pretty much the same process but you have to use a flywheel for a T56 and so on.

 

thx man i would just buy a manual but my i got my trans am 4 $2,000 and its solid under the car with barely an thin wrong on the body besides the norman pain fade and chip an some minor surface rust but i love working on cars so i dont mine the work. I bought it with 69,000 original miles.

 

I see thread all the time about swapping from auto to manual...I think I'm the only one who has ever done manual to auto. lol. My girls camaro was manual and she doesn't like manuals, but the price was right for the car.

 

I've found it very tough to find a thrid gen that was stick from the factory in my area for sale at a "reasonable" price. That's why both of mine have been automatics. My 92 is getting a T5 swap though. I should have most of the parts this weekend but, it will be next weekend before I can afford the clutch and a flywheel. If only the rent hadn't been due . . .

 

Ya every time I find a stick they are wicked shity or in wicked nice condition and very high priced.

 

When you go to do this, it's fairly easy. I still need to cut the holes for the clutch cylinder and the transmission tunnel. I'm waiting till payday to afford the clutch and flywheel. I don't want to have to bolt the tranny up twice. I went ahead and pulled out the master brake cylinder and the power brake booster today. It was a little tricky to pull the power brake booster out but, not to bad.

Taking the pedal assembly out was sort of a pain. I however didn't drop the steering column down. That required unbolting the brake pedal out of the assembly to access the bolts though. I'm going to drop the steering column down on the new pedal assembly to make life easier. Plus, I need to replace the ignition switch and the dimmer switch that bolt to the steering column.

I advise removing the master brake cylinder and power brake booster before removing the pedal assembly. This is because the pedal assembly and the power brake booster are bolted together. The power brake booster has four bolts that come out of the back of it and run through the firewall. These bolts run through the brake pedal assembly which is held on by four nuts. Pulling the power brake booster first will allow you to just slide the pedal assembly out instead of having to pull it forward with very limited room. You'll need a deep wall 15mm socket for these nuts.

Everything else is going to be very, very easy. If you hit any snags, let me know.

 

So I installed a new ignition switch and dimmer switch in my car today after I fixed the hack job that got done on the wiring under the dash by the previous owner(s). Still haven't cut any of the holes or swapped any actual parts in like the flywheel as most of it shipped out today. Anyway I decided to try and start the engine today just to make sure everything was ok. Well, the damned thing wouldn't crank/start unless I had the automatic shifter's park/neutral switch plugged in. It shouldn't need to be though.


I think I have the problem narrowed down though. I bought a clutch switch and installed it to the pedal assembly. Thing is, I have no place to wire it into. The factory dash wires have a connector coming off of them that matches the wiring for the park/neutral. It's a two wire but it like the clutch switch is a female connector. Is there a male to male connector that is supposed to link the two together?