Ok guys, I went from TBI to TPI and lost my lock up for the torque converter b/c the '730 ecm wants 4000 pulses and the TBI vss has 2000. So, I've read where you can stick a paper clip in the ALDL in A and F terminal and it will manually lock it up. So, my question is, I have a switch in my dash that I don't use anymore, how can I use the switch to lockup the torque converter manually just for highway traveling? Do I just ground terminal on the switch to a the ground source and then tap into the F terminal with the positive side terminal?

Thanks for the help.

 

Ok, after re-reading the article for this....A is the ground so I would assume A would go to the ground terminal on the switch and since you need a positive then F would go to the positive terminal on the switch. I'm I assuming correct.

 

where did you read that? Id be interested to read it

 

As I recall, you just have to jump the two terminals to lock it up. That would mean that on a two post switch, A goes to one side, F goes to the other. On a 3 terminal switch, the ground part is the ground for the light inside the switch, no for the component it is operating. Use the + and the ACC terminals on that type of switch. Remember not to lock it up in first through third if you don't enjoy swapping trannys or torque converters. If you do, have at it, I heard it's supposed to knock a few tenths off 1/4 mile times.

 

The way I did my manual lockup...

The four prong connector on the tranny constantly has power going to one of the prongs. The lock up is activated by a interruping the ground or negative. Which means, all I had to do was run a wire from one of the other prongs to a switch on my dash. From the switch I found a ground that I ran another wire to.
When I pull the switch, my lock-up activates. And I must push the switch to deactivate it. No more automatic lock up. Which means, I must shut it off when I come to a stop and when I accelerate.
You could figure it out with a test light. The next time I look under my car I will take note of the wiring for you.
The nice part is that you don't have to run a hot wire to the tranny or to the switch.

 

If you read my past posts, I have some helpful info regarding this issue. Like the wire colors and what to do with them.

 

Ok, some interesting info here. If you are looking to maually control lockup on your 700r4 both Summit and Jeg's have wiring kits from Painless and others. I have also seen them on Ebay.
Does anyone know what triggers lockup in the stock computer? I have a 1988 Formula that I put a 383 SBC in and the stock ECM no longer gets any engine sensor info, MS1 EFI controller and ignition is a stand alone MSD system. I don't know if it is still going into lockup or not but I don't think so.

 

Throttle Position Sensor, I think. This is good electrical question.

 

dude my car was a tbi to tpi convert and it has lost lockup too, if you fix it tell me how you did it cos i got the exact same prob

 

I'll keep you up to date but the engine is out of the truck at the moment getting modified. So, I'll let you know.

 

Locking the torque converter up at WOT will help destroy the transmission if it is locked from 2nd gear on, and the vehicle will slow down in the quarter mile. Locking up the TC is for cruising, lower heat, lower rpm's, and gas mileage.

 

That's my only reason for doing this is to lock it up on the highway. Around town, I like have it unlocked.

 

I never thought to apply my lockup in the 1/4mile. When I hit the traps I am just topping out 3rd gear. Sometimes I think I should shift to 4th but I never do.
I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully it don't go boom.