Hi

I'm looking for a complete axle package for my 1983 T/A.
Mine is a 2.73, and I want a LSD 3.43 instead.

Sure it would be easier to swap the axle but, I just find any complete kit...

Is there a reason ?
Do somedody knows a solution ?

Thanks

 

Not completely sure what you mean "package".....

The reason there aren't many parts available for 83, is that it used the small 26-spline axles. No one in his right mind spends money on one of those and leaves those in there.

Gears are everywhere. YOu need any of the made-in-USA brands of them such as Dana/Spicer, AAM/Motive, Superior, Precision, or US Gear/Strange; basically, ANYTHING BUT Richmonds if it's going to drive on the street, or cheeep Far East knockoffs off of eBay or something like that.

Then, a "gear install kit" with bearings and shims; a solid pinion spacer aka "crush sleeve eliminator"; a posi carrier; a girdle type of cover; and a pair of axles.

Gears http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...duct-1792.html

Kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=RAT%2D308TK

Spacer http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=RAT%2D4111

Carrier http://store.summitracing.com/partde...%2D19599%2D010

Cover http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=SME%2D8510400

Axles http://store.summitracing.com/partde...SAG%2DEV10%2D4

Put all that in a box, and I suppose you'll have a "kit" of your own making.

Now you understand 2 things:

1. Why you probably want to just go to the junkyard and find a complete rear; and

2. Why you can't find a "kit" - because nobody can be bothered creating something that nobody will buy

 

Amazing advice !

I'll put all this on my shopping list for this summer. I'm currently buying parts to rebuild completely my chassis and powertrain.

I plan to use a 30-spline TCI TH-700 R4 transmission. Do you know if I'll have to modify the driveshaft ?

Last question, my car has factory rear disc brakes. Will I have to replace them or can I re-use them ?

Man, you're a Lord of advice. I'l be proud to amaze French guys with my 305ci '83 thanks to you...

 

No; at least, not if you have a 700-R4 now.

Nothing about this will affect them in any way. They will remain the same as they are now.

Do they ever work AT ALL? That kind usually doesn't.... you might want to consider getting new calipers, putting the "recall kit" in them, and modifying the proportioning valve. If you do all that, they might actually start doing something. Be aware also, you MUST use the parking brake EVERY TIME you park the car, because that's the only way those brakes adjust. They are a very bad design. Most of us try to get rid of them, and get a set of the 89-up brakes made by PBR, with aluminum calipers. That's what I have on my 83 Z28.

Good luck with your project!!

 

I don't know if they work. All I know is that, despite a new master cylinder my car brakes like a soap... And my parking brake is unexistent.

I planned to put SSBC 2-piston caliper upfront, EBC rotors and pads on 4 wheels anb stainless brake lines. Don't know anything about the rear calipers...

I always use the parking brake. As a reflex of a manual-trans daily driver -this is France here

Also, I found this on Summit's website :

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Wouln't it mount on my 83 with Hotchkis sway bars and Koni shocks ?

 

That Saginaw rear brake system is the worst rear disc setup there is.

I would not bother with upgrading the front, until the rear was AT LEAST made to work. You might be surprised at how much difference having rear brakes can make.

The "caliper recall kit" is connected with the adjustment issue. It comes from GM. There was a recall for a very few of these cars, with manual trans, for the parking brake not working; the "kit" was supposed to fix that. For most cars however, you will have to pay for the "kit", but it's not very expensive. Old calipers are almost always frozen in place with rust, from not doing anything for so long; so you should buy new ones, and put the "kit" in them.

The proportioning valve modification involves taking out the regulator assembly for the rear brakes and enlarging its hole for greater fluid flow to the rear. The combination of updated calipers along with this mod, results in rear brakes that almost work. In fact some people have even reported that for the first time in the car's life, their rear rotors actually acquire wear, from the pads touching them, after doing these things. Then, regluar parking brake use is required to keep them operating.

Yes you could buy that Moser setup; note however, that it comes with no carrier, no gears, and no brakes. It won't care what sway bar and shocks you have. But, it's at least $1000 away from a running and driving rear end.... it's just the housing and axles.

Alot of people, even with manual trans cars, don't use the parking brake much, if at all.... myself included, alot of the time.... glad to hear that you do. With that rear brake setup however, it is CRITICAL that you do so; the act of using it, is what adjusts the rear brakes. One of the design shortcomings of that system.

 

Man, you're a goldmine to me !!!

I made some entertaining calculations, here are the results :

1st option : rebuild my factory axle

-gears $198
-kit $ 79
-spacer $ 17
-carrier $520
-cover $150 (don't believe it's necessary, tell me if I'm wrong)
-axles $231

-pro-building and paint $750
-shipping in France plus taxes $600

Total $2535


2nd option : buy it all brand new

-Moser axle $1499
-carrier $ 520
-gears $ 198

-pro-building, checking and paint $500
-shipping and taxes $750

Total $3467

One grand cheaper to have the stock axle rebuilt. Same risk of unperfect job.

In a 305-equipped F-body with T-tops that'll be driven (quite hard) on the road and almost never raced, I think it's enough...

Thanks for all your great advices. Now I can concentrate on the brakes, especially out back.

 

You can probably skip the cover, if you want. It braces the rear and keeps it from spreading under heavy loads. If you will only have a 305, it's not as likely to be an issue. If you ever upgrade to a bigger motor, you can always add it then.

Search the Brake forum on this site for words like "recall kit" and "part number". The proportioning valve mod info might be in the FAQ section.

 

Just a tip on your brake upgrades. Before you spend a dime on any of the overpriced stuff SSBC sells, send a PM to EB Miller. He's a member here on the boards, and he sells awesome brake upgrade kits for our cars at a fraction of the cost compared to Baer, SSBC, or Wilwood. He's a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the brakes on our cars, and can tell you what the best choice would be for your car. Btw, the SSBC, 2 piston calipers are more than likely just overpriced, 1LE calipers.

 

Wow, this is VERY interesting...

I'll buy the cover. I want maximum rigidity and agility under pure-stock appearance.
The only roads where we can have fun here are . Straight lines and motorways are now crowded with cameras...

That's why I want a good chassis, a light but torquey engine and a quite close-ratio trans.

The brakes remain a problem.
Pat, I'm gonna follow your advices. What I don't understand is why 1LE brake kits come with spindles and require 16-inch of minimal wheel size. I want my car to run on the 15 ''Turbo-cast wheels I bought last year.

Anyway, this is no more an axle problem.

Thanks for answering me

 

Actually, you can modify your own spindles for the 1LE brakes. I did my own, and it wasn't too difficult. If you research it here on the boards, there's quite a few posts on how to modify them. You just have to cut off the original caliper mount area of the spindle, then drill and tap two of the dust shield holes to a larger size to accomodate the 1LE adapter brackets. And on the wheel size, I'm not sure about the "turbo-cast" rims, but I can tell you that I'm able to run my stock, 5 spoke, 15x7 Camaro wheels with the 1LE brakes up front. I have my snow tires mounted on the 15x7's, so I run them every winter. I'd be willing to bet your rims will clear them too. In fact, it's my rear, PBR brakes (89-up style) that come really close to contact with the rim. The front ones have quite a bit of clearance, more than the rears anyways.

 

So, I got to find 1LE brakes up front, and 89-up units out back. Or the PBR kit...

PBR's website is poor on information. But there's a man here in France who parts out 3rd gens. I can ask him.

I also sent a message to EB Miller, asking him what he can offer me.

What I hate most on my car is the soft-cake feeling in the pedal. I always feel like I'm lacking brake fluid. Okay, okay, everything but the master cylinder is 25-year old. But I'm sure that, even new, the whole system din't fell like my modern VW stuff...

 

Any 89-92 3rd gen disc rear will have the PBR calipers. It's real easy to tell since they're aluminum, and the 88-older ones are cast iron. 93-97 f-body rear calipers are also PBR's, and will work on your rear if you get the backing plates and rotors with them. You have to make a slight modification to the end of the e-brake cable from what I've read, but it's not hard. 89-92 style are a direct swap though. I'm running the 1LE brakes up front and the PBR's in the rear on my car with Bosch ceramic pads all the way around, and it stops on a dime compared to how it used to stop with the weenie little 10.5", single piston front calipers it had originally. The Bosch ceramic pads made a huge difference over the stock GM pads too. When I first put the 1LE's up front with the stock pads, it didn't feel much better than the old brake setup, but the better pads made a night and day difference. Sometimes it takes a bit for Ed Miller to reply to his PM's, but he should be able to set you up with everything you need for a lot cheaper than any of the aftermarket companies.