Can anyone give me some pointer and direction on rebuilding the posi unit in my 85 IROC? It has the 3:42 gear ratio and is a posi. Any help would be greatly appreached. Thanks

 

Limited Slips (posi) in 10-bolts cannot be rebuilt.

 

So I should look to replacing the carrier

 

Depends on which one you have. It could be the Governor Lock or Auburn. If it is an Auburn then take it out and toss it in the scrap metal pile. Be ready to clean the housing and axle tubes out well because the Auburn fills the rear end with powdered metal. The Governor Lock can be rebuilt, but not without special tools.

The best thing to do is replace it with a new Eaton posi or Truetrac. The one you choose depends on what you want to do with the car.


Governor Lock

Auburn

 

Well I have the Gov lock. Was looking at the true trac today in the new summit book. Tough desision................... NOT!
Just for S@#% and giggles how hard would be to rebuild the gov lock? Where can I get the parts from?

 

Not worth the time and effort.

 

The tool to disassemble the Gov Lock is over $130. What parts are broke in it? The parts come from GM.

I have the tool and can rebuild it for you if you want. I have rebuilt many of these.

 

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It's just plain wore out. There is about a half of a turn in the driveshaft before the tire even start to rotate.

 

What are you going to do with it? I might be able to use parts out of it.

 

Oh don't know yet. The car is all orginal numbers matching, I guess I was just going to keep it for now and if I sell the car it could go with it.
What's the difference between a truetrac and a eaton carrier

 

The Eaton uses clutches to lock both sides together. It can be adjusted for more or less slipage in the clutches, depending on how you want it to act. It is also completely rebuildable.

The Truetrac uses resistance in worm gears to distribute power to both sides. They are smoother in curves, but can sometimes slip when doing burnouts.

I prefer the Eaton for street/strip cars and the Truetrac for road racing and autocross.

I have a Governor Lock that is rebuilt. I don't remember if it's 26 or 28 spline. I can check it if you are interested. I sell them for $250.

 

Thanks for the offer I'll let you know what direction I going to go. if I decide to buy your gov lock would you want the old core? Without counting the splines I couldn't tell you if It's 26 or 28. My guess is 26 cause it's all stock and the orginal rear.

 

The '85 will be 26 spline. I might be interested in the core if I have parts to go in it.

 

Ok. Thanks for all you help and insight.

 

I wouldn't spend $25 on a Gov-Lock, let alone $250. They're weak and prone to failure, that's why they're commonly nicknamed "grenade-lock". They work okay in 4WD trucks since dirt allows some slippage when they lock up. When they lock up quickly on dry pavement, they like to explode into shrapnel. If you plan on keeping and driving the car for a long time, I'd suggest sealing up the original Gov-Lock in a plastic bag, sticking it on a shelf in the garage, and then install an Eaton clutch type unit. The Eatons are tough as nails, and fully rebuildable, unlike an Auburn. If you're on a budget, the Truetrac isn't a bad choice either, and can be bought for cheaper than an Eaton. Whatever you do, don't even think about one of those no-slip locker units from Powertrax or Richmond. They jerk and bang so badly in a street-driven car, it'll drive you nuts! Had one of those in my 69 12 bolt rear for a while. Never again.

 

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