Well i was at a light last night with the car in gear, revving it just to hear it (nobody was around, it was late) and i noticed that even when i had the clutch all the way to the floor, it would move foward a little bit each time i revved.

Well, today i was sitting at a light with the car i nuetral, and the light turns green, i go to put it in gear and it abosolutely refuses to go into any gear. Finally i was able to jam it into second and take off. It did this 2 or three more times before i got home a little while ago. any thoughts as to what this is all about? im thinking its got something to do with the clutch but its only like a year old, maybe its just a crappy clutch, or maybe its out of adjustment? whatcha think?

Eric

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My 1986 Z28
GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles!

You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look

R.I.P Dale Earnhardt

 

I have the same problem.
I'm not sure, but i think the hydraulic clutch may need bleeding.

Can anyone confirm that please?
Thanks guys!

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Sat "IROCkid" Bimrah
1989 IROC-Z 5.0 L / 5 spd

 

try bleeding the clutch. If that doesnt work, try adjusting the linkage...but..Im not sure if you can adjust the release on the 5-speed hyd linkage. I know it cant be done on the 6-spd.

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1987 GTA 355, carbureted, TFS heads(non G2), 6-speed, McLeod clutch, 11.3:1, dual 3" flowmaster 2-chamber exhaust with NO tailpipes, 98 z-28 wheels, soon to be replacing weak 10 bolt with 12-bolt...gettin tired of breakin axles....

...Whatever turns your tires.....

 

there is no linkage to adjust , bleed the clutch and go from there, it sounds like the clutch is hanging up,

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87 IROC-z 305 TPI 5spd 10-bolt 3.73 posi ,8.8 Accel wires , bosch platinum +4 plugs,MAF sensor screens removed, gutted air box, ram air, K&N air filters,TB coolant bypass ,polyurethane tranny and torque arm mounts, K&N oil filter,Mobil 1 synthetic oil 20w50, futura GLS super sport tires 265/50/15 rear and 235/60/15 front mounted on 86 monte carlo SS rims ,

400 sbc and a 6 spd in the works

 

I had the same exact problem back in May, Turns out it was my pilot bushing catching on the input shaft of the trans. The pilot bearing would catch and keep the trans. spinning so the syncros could never line up and I had to force it into any gear. I had 167K miles at the time so if you have high miles or "rough" miles this may be your same problem.

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'90 RS 305 TBI
soon to upgrade to TBI 350 or LT1 (I hope)

 

alright i bled the clutch. after spraying fluid all over myself I've concluded that theres no air in the thing. I bled it 6 times. It's still doing it, although it seems like not as much. One more thing i've noticed id that it seems to do it only after idling in nuetral with the clutch out for 30 seconds or more... What should i check now? The T/O bearing is making noises, could this be part of the problem?

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My 1986 Z28
GM350, T-5, 3.23's, lots of go fast goodies, 4th gen Firebird interior etc...
85 IROC w/ 1364 miles!

You'll always find what you've lost in the last place you look

R.I.P Dale Earnhardt

 

Keep bleeding the clutch. If it's getting better when you do that keep doing it. I've ran 3 cans of fluid through mine before I got all of the air out.

If your T/O bearing is making noise it's going south. Is it possible that it's time for a clutch job?

 

actually the clutch is new. and so is the throwout bearing, i think it just needs to be lubed. thats what im told anyway...

Eric

 

This may be a dumb question, but did you replace your pilot bushing during your clutch swap?

 

sure did.

 

The only way i've been able to get around the problem for now is to leave the car in gear when braking (in gear but on the clutch as well). Once you come to a complete stop, then i pull it out of gear, keep it in neutral, and it should go into first rather smoothly when ready.

 

Ok you say it walks forward when in gear but the clutch is all the way to the floor. And you say its hard to get into gear while stopped. If your tranny has no reverse Syncros I bet if you leave it in neutral, then clutch to the floor, and try to goto reverse, it grinds.
You also mention your clutch is new...

Your problem: Clutch Disengagment.
With hydroulic clutch you may need more throw, which CAN mean Air in the lines. Air will always mess up Hydroulic stuff. If all the air is out and you still have this problem, your linkage is the next step to adjust, (if you can, some hydroulics wont let you adjust) but make sure you have some pedal play so the throw out bearing is NOT riding on the pressure plate. (thats really really bad) if linkage is as far as it will go, and all the air is out of the lines, and you STILL have this problem, the NEXT step is:
Check your angle on the clutch fork and linkage. Have somone watch the clutch fork as you press the pedal and see if anything is pushing in the wrong direction or bending as you press. If its a stock setup this usually is not the case, BUT in my 4000 Pound pressure plate setup I bent a clutch fork and a Z-bar. It NEVER hurts to check this before ripping it all apart.
STILL not disengaging fully?
I would say let the clutch burn in a litte, I BET the problem gets worse as the car heats up! the combind flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch plate heating up and EXPANDING can make the situation WORSE. Giving it TIME to burn in can help the problem SOMTIMES although on the other hand, you can RUIN your tranny shifting it while driving like this without full disengagment. I blew up a Super T-10 because it got JUST ENOUGH throw to disengage, but when it got hot, forget it.

If the problem persists, the tranny will probably have to be yanked and a number of things can be changed / adjusted to fix the issue. Things like pivot ball adjustments, Throwout Bearing length, Pressure plate holding pressures, Flywheel surface size, Block plate / Shatter Shield usage, bellhousing Seating, Clutch fork angle, linkage angle, and Hydroulic Fluid Viscosity all play a role in getting full disengagment.
I've been fighting my tranny for 5 months now, trying to fix the same problem you are having, but mine is a little worse at this point. I've broken 2 throw out bearings (1 slipt up, the other's surface was ground into a groove from wear) I've killed 1 Clutch fork (Heavy Duty from lakewood, Snapped in half) I've broke off my Pivot ball (4 days ago in fact) I've ruined a Super T-10, I've destroyed my old bellhousing and clutch fork before I got this new one, I've managed to Mangle 2 Z-bars with too much pressure and 1 clutch linkage bar has bent. I'm about to give up and get an automatic because this just isnt working out, But I'm having a good friend take one final look at it. He will have to make a special angle Z-bar and linkage for it and probably do some other crap for it.

GOOD LUCK!!! I know I dont have any....