OK, I have just finished rebuilding my T5. Nice little project and AMAZING results. I have never had a trans that shifted this smoothly. I highly recommend the kits that Gearbox sells. A+ for tech support and answering any and every question on the spot.

Now for the question: I have replaced the piolet and throwout bearing three time on account of a constant chirping sound to no avail. The sound goes away if you just apply light finger pressure to the pedal. This car was origionally a 700r4 car and was converted when I did my restoration. Is there supposed to be a tension spring on the pedal or maybe a rubber boot where the throwout fork goes into the bellhousing? I was thinking about putting a very light carb return spring on to just add the slightest about of pressure to the pedal to eliminate the sound. I am just worried that this will cause premature wear on the clutch components even though it wound be enough to engage the pressure plate. Any thoughts or ideas here?

 

how is your pedal?..is is soft or firm?...i have had issues with my clutch ,,i can't seem to be able to ship gears without grinding when the engine is on ..i can only shift gears with engine on....

 

Well, pedal has about 1/4" of freeplay, then it has about 3 1/2" of medium-low tension until it lightens up and pressure plate is fully disengaged. Overall I would say a medium pedal for all I have driven. This is with a fresh build, a new flywheel, and new clutch kit.

Grinding gears could mean worn out synchros or broken splines. Does the car move on its own when in gear with clutch engaged? Smell burning clutch? Seem to rev faster then you are moving? Pedal stay on floor, or feel spongy?

 

pedal feels always the same, i have a new clutch kit and flywheel and new master slave assembly ,,i can start the car in gear and if i let go of the clutch it will advance or reverse no problem ,,it just doesn't want to go in gear when engine on and i want to shift...

 

Did you make sure to bleed the clutch really well? If the Slave cyl isn't fully extending and pushing the fork all the way in it will grind going in and be impossible to shift gears. If the clutch and hydraulics are all functioning properly, then you will be looking at a rebuild on the T5 itself (which if it has been grinding long, I wouldn't recommend) or a new transmission.

 

i think i new to bleed it more,,,i have bled it a dozen times and it has got better...i really think that may be it because with the car off...i can shift into gears with one finger and it makes no noise or resistance...the clutch fork and rod moves about .5' or maybe a little more,,,maybe it's not enough to disengage properly?

 

When you are bleeding, are you doing a one man bleed or is someone helping you? If you have a helper have your helper pump the clutch 3 times and hold it to the floor. Crack open the bleeder valve to relieve air, close it back and have your friend do it again. Once it is fully bled, you will have a single clear stream of fluid (not milky looking or spitting). The fork doesnt move much more then 3/4" at full engage, but it can be hard to tell. You said it was a new clutch? Did you install it yourself? If so did you notice if there was any shaft play (up/down, in/out) in the trans input shaft?

 

i had someone help with the bleeding...i had the person pump the pedal once each time and then bled the system over and over again..yes it's a new clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing and pilot bushing along with a new flywheel ,,also the slave cylinder assembly kit is brand new out of the box.,,even the bellhousing is new(lakewood)..i did install it all myself..torqued it at to specs..the only thing not new it the T5 itself,,,it seems fine though,,,the input shaft had no play,,it just turned with no issues when in gear or neutral on the workbench,,on another forum someone said that my pilot bushing is stuck to the input shaft...most people say to bleed it again and agian until i get full pressure out of the slave...

 

I would try bleeding it again. But have your buddy pump the pedal 3 times and hold. Also make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level, if the master goes dry you have to start all over.

 

you asked about a boot around clutch fork into bellhousing . yes it should have one , keeps trash etc. out of clutch . i bought one from dealership last year . don't remember cost but it was inexpensive . i think boot is the same on S-10 P/U trucks . good luck .

 

well, i was told not to actually pump the pedal like a brake pedal...just have the helper push down and open bleeder and close it quickly...do this about 6-7 times...

 

Thanks, I figured there should be one had just never seen one of these that still had one on it.

I have never had issues with doing it, as long as they aren't trying out for the track team while they are doing it. I normally do a one man bleed on mine, as I do on brakes as well. But when I do have someone to help I have them pump it up 2-3 times and hold. If they do pump fast it will cause the air to milk up the fluid. Did you bench bleed all of this before you put it in? I always bench bleed any hydraulics before I bolt them on, friends that I have helped with brakes and clutches love it ... only takes a few minutes to bleed out once bolted up.

 

i didn't bench bleed it...my slave unit was brand new and came with fluid in it already...i was told not to bleed it all!!!...but once installed the pedal was so soft ...i bled it over and over again using a method on another post here ..i was also told not to pump it like a brake pedal...