Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
I have the LT-1 T-56 going behind a 2 piece rear main seal motor into a 1984 Camaro. I want to go with the hydraulic clutch setup with the T-56 swap. Which is the best clutch setup to go with? I was told some setups have the slave cylinder on the outside of the bellhousing and some have the slave on the inside of the bellhousing. I haven't worked on either setup yet and would like to see exploded views of both setups if any Forum member has them to post. Any comments about the pros and cons of each system is welcomed. TIA.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
The LT1 T56 has the external slave cylinder, the LS1 has an hydraulic throw out bearing. To go the LS1 route you need to change the input shaft and front plate on the trans. This will allow you to use the T5 style clutch setup. But you will have to shorten the drive shaft if you go the LS1 setup.
Read the T56 sticky at the top of this forum and then ask your questions.
Read the T56 sticky at the top of this forum and then ask your questions.
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap

From the sticky I have garnered this photo with the pieces for the clutch system. Not having the pleasure of working on a clutch system like this is why the questions to the Forum members. From reading the sticky the pivot ball and fork are missing from the picture. I am guessing the rest of the pieces needed for the swap are in the picture here.
The slave cylinder that goes to the brake pedal is easy to see right in the middle. I am guessing the bottom (black) slave cylinder gets mounted onto the bellhousing and uses the rod with black boot to push the clutch fork in. What is the spacer used for that is in the top left corner of the pic? I have the spacer and stock bellhousing for the T-56 but still needing the rest of the setup. I want to get it right the 1st time and not re-invent the wheel.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
Did you read the entire T56 sticky? If you read it all the way through 99% of your questions will be answered. Just below the pic you posted is a pic of the clutch release fork, and on the second page is a pic of the slave bolted to the bell housing with the spacer in place.
If you have all the hyrdraulics and the pedal assembly you need the flywheel, disc, and pressure palte to complete the setup.
You also need to consider what you will be using for a speedometer. T56's use VSS and in stock form can't drive a cable for your speedometer. If you need help with this PM me, I do the cable drive conversion for T56's.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/clas...xcellence.html
If you have all the hyrdraulics and the pedal assembly you need the flywheel, disc, and pressure palte to complete the setup.
You also need to consider what you will be using for a speedometer. T56's use VSS and in stock form can't drive a cable for your speedometer. If you need help with this PM me, I do the cable drive conversion for T56's.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/clas...xcellence.html
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From: Prince George, BC, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L Supercharged
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
You will need to figure out something for your 2 piece RMS engine, I believe they take a different flywheel for it.
Also you need to know if your engine is internally balanced or not and for the best clutch choice what is your plans for this car?
Also you need to know if your engine is internally balanced or not and for the best clutch choice what is your plans for this car?
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From: Richlands N.C.
Car: '92 RS
Engine: 350 carb'd
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10
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Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
Thanks to the Forum memberswho have posted replies to my question. I have the Centerforce flywheel and clutch setup for the 2 piece RMS engine. I have put 2 Viper T-56s into a couple of my C3s and have used the bellhousing from Quik Time. This way I can use the original mechanical clutch setup.
This is my 1st T-56 swap into a F body so I am still on the learning curve on this one. I will not be using the Cable X box for the speedometer. I will be using the 3.5" electronic speedometer from Auto meter. With this speedometer you simply plug into the T-56's pulse port for the speedometer. The Autometer guy calibrates itself to the T-56 transmission in less then 1 mile of driving the car.
It looks like the 1997 T/A did have a LT-1 motor installed from the factory. I will have to do some more checking around to get a look @ the clutch setup that was used in that T/A. Thanks again to all of the Forum members who have posted replies here in this thread.
This is my 1st T-56 swap into a F body so I am still on the learning curve on this one. I will not be using the Cable X box for the speedometer. I will be using the 3.5" electronic speedometer from Auto meter. With this speedometer you simply plug into the T-56's pulse port for the speedometer. The Autometer guy calibrates itself to the T-56 transmission in less then 1 mile of driving the car.
It looks like the 1997 T/A did have a LT-1 motor installed from the factory. I will have to do some more checking around to get a look @ the clutch setup that was used in that T/A. Thanks again to all of the Forum members who have posted replies here in this thread.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
A lot of weird comments getting thrown around so far...
Firstly, you're not gonna want to get the hydraulics in pieces. Just spend the money and get new hydraulics from GM - $150 or so. It comes as an entire assembly, pre-bled. Just bolt and go. The peace of mind knowing you have properly functioning hydraulics is a big deal. You dont want to blow up your synchros because the clutch isnt completely releasing.
Secondly, all 93-97 F-body T-56's are external slave. They will bolt right up to any Gen I or Gen II (old school sbc or LT1 engine) block no problem. Everything fits. Internal slave cyl T-56s are off of LS1 F-bodies from 98-02. They will not fit without modifications and special parts. A lot of LS1 guys seem to have issues with their hydraulics anyway. GM did some weird things with them for some reason. They restricted the flow for smoother shifts, but that wears out the synchros faster because the clutch doesnt completely disengage. They do things like "the drill mod" and so forth to fix it the Plus they're awful to get to to bleed them. It's a nightmare. Some people cut holes in the floor pan so they can get to the bleeder screw easier.
The LT1 T56 setup is a lot more user friendly in a lot of ways, unfortunately they use a bizarre reverse style clutch from every other transmission in existence. Any clutch for a 93-97 F-body will work, though.
If you have an 84 block, you've got a 2 pc RMS block. You're going to need a 2pc RMS conversion flywheel for the LT1 T56. Not a big deal, they're available and you have a few to choose from, but it'll cost ya around $300 or so.
Firstly, you're not gonna want to get the hydraulics in pieces. Just spend the money and get new hydraulics from GM - $150 or so. It comes as an entire assembly, pre-bled. Just bolt and go. The peace of mind knowing you have properly functioning hydraulics is a big deal. You dont want to blow up your synchros because the clutch isnt completely releasing.
Secondly, all 93-97 F-body T-56's are external slave. They will bolt right up to any Gen I or Gen II (old school sbc or LT1 engine) block no problem. Everything fits. Internal slave cyl T-56s are off of LS1 F-bodies from 98-02. They will not fit without modifications and special parts. A lot of LS1 guys seem to have issues with their hydraulics anyway. GM did some weird things with them for some reason. They restricted the flow for smoother shifts, but that wears out the synchros faster because the clutch doesnt completely disengage. They do things like "the drill mod" and so forth to fix it the Plus they're awful to get to to bleed them. It's a nightmare. Some people cut holes in the floor pan so they can get to the bleeder screw easier.
The LT1 T56 setup is a lot more user friendly in a lot of ways, unfortunately they use a bizarre reverse style clutch from every other transmission in existence. Any clutch for a 93-97 F-body will work, though.
If you have an 84 block, you've got a 2 pc RMS block. You're going to need a 2pc RMS conversion flywheel for the LT1 T56. Not a big deal, they're available and you have a few to choose from, but it'll cost ya around $300 or so.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,881
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From: Fl.
Car: 83 Trans Am / 96 Jeep XJ
Engine: 355 / 4.0 I6
Transmission: TH350 / Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt / 4wd
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
While were on this subject here, I have a quick question.
Will the master/slave cylinders from a 3rd gen T5 work with the LT1 T56?
Thanks.
Will the master/slave cylinders from a 3rd gen T5 work with the LT1 T56?
Thanks.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 270
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From: Taylors Falls, Minnesota
Car: 1983 Z/28
Engine: Edelbrock 355
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42/Zexel/PBR
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
Sorry, meant to say the whole setup. i put the whole LT1 hydraulic setup and pedal assembly in my 83 Z and to be honest it fit like it was supposed to be there. I was very pleased with the results.
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iTrader: (10)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 2
From: Fl.
Car: 83 Trans Am / 96 Jeep XJ
Engine: 355 / 4.0 I6
Transmission: TH350 / Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10-bolt / 4wd
Re: Clutch setup for T-56 Swap
Allright, thanks so much for the information!
Just needed to know if I had to use my T5 hydraulics, or the ones from the 4th gen.
Just needed to know if I had to use my T5 hydraulics, or the ones from the 4th gen.
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