I'm considering just going ahead and swap the T5 in my 84 TA for an LT1 T56 while I have the car apart. But I've heard a million stories about what you will need and what you can keep.

I know I need, flywheel, clutch, 4th gen pedals, hydraulics, T56, speedo gear conversion, and the T56 mount.

Now other than that obvious stuff, people have also said something about replacing the master cylinder, the driveshaft being shortened or tailshaft modded, and also people talk about needing to drill more holes or make holes bigger.

At the same time, I've been told that the driveshaft is the same from 84-02. 82 and 83 is when you need to be careful with the driveshaft. Also looking at photos, it seems to be just a straight swap with an LT1 T56, which is what I want because of the OBDI computer which really couldn't care. So what exactly am I looking at doing here?

I'm planning on putting a carbed 350 in front of it, hence the LT1 gen I block trans. Stock rear. I'm keeping the 3.73 ten bolt posi because people have already said its more than good enough for street driving unless I drive it like a jackass.

Thanks guys.

 

right.93-97 master cylinder bolts in place of the third-gen master cyl.

93-97 LT1 T56 length w/ bellhousing = 83-92 L69/LB9/LG4 T5 length with bellhousing.
It is.
Not if you have a T5 or 700-R4

 

Ok, so I can indeed just do the swap without doing much modding other than grounding the switch to the brake, and the speedo gear mod, correct?

 

And just to make sure I have this right. When people say master cylinder, they are referring to the clutch master cylinder, not the brake one correct? Just making sure I didn't misunderstand you guys.

 

I'm not sure why you'd need to change anything about the brake switch.

Yes, you'll need to work out speedo drive.

Yes, on the master cylinder(s).
The brake master cylinder is bolted at the front of the power booster.
The clutch master cylinder is bolted to the firewall in 84-02 third and 4th gens.

 

Ok thanks again. I'll get to work pulling the clutch master cylinder, and pedals so I can get moving on the swap now instead of shelling out for T5 parts then T56 parts. The Brakes I'm keeping stock for now so that won't be bad. But the car drove so iffy after sitting for 7 years that I decided to overhaul everything and swap for a 350 and T56. I'll refer to other people's threads for more swap info unless I have specific questions. I'll try to use the search too. Thanks again guys.

 

why pull pedals?

 

I'm working on restoring the car, I've been told if you do the swap it works best with the 4th gen pedals. I'd keep the third gen pedals, but from my searching I've found all kinds of BS issues that pop up if you retain them. I still have the original pedals in the car. I want to get everything out that I want to either swap or replace and work from there. The car only has the roof panels, dash (not much left of that in there now either), hatch and doors as the major parts still attached to the car other than the AC.

The goal right now is to have a rolling chassis by next spring/summer. Just want to get the pedals swapped too while I'm under the dash. The booster I'm guessing is the same too because no one has reported issues with the brake pedal and third gen booster.

 

Most people gripe later about the 4th gen pedals since the upper main support hole doesnt line up at all. This leads to cracked firewalls

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...placement.html

To use the 3rd gen pedals you need to grind off the the old peg and flip it
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...e-4th-gen.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ed-clutch.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...en-vs-4th.html

 

Ah. So you can keep the third gen pedal and not have any issues with the clutch release and travel. I personally like the Clevis pin idea. Nice and simple and easily done by anyone. (I can weld but don't have the equipment to do so here at home.) It is an excellent point about the hole not lining up. I can see the problems that can cause. Also you have problems with the bracket for the gas pedal too. Good photos in there. I guess I'll keep the pedals.

So what you are saying is, change the pin on the clutch pedal and use a 4th gen LT1 master cylinder, and go have fun? Sounds easy enough. Though would the McLeod master cylinder mentioned in the threads be the better option of the two M/Cs?

 

Change the pin, use the T56 master, go have fun. In that order preferably

Most people around here cant love the Tick master enough. Give that one a try

 

Ok thanks for the advice, Tick master for a T56 huh, I'll check it out. And yes I hope it does go in that order lol.