I apologize if this has already been covered and/or just sounds stupid, but I'm looking for info on removing the oil cooler lines. There is virtually no room to work, even using a crowfoot and long extension. What's the best way? Take out the crossmember and lower the trans on a jack? Or is there some technique/tool I'm overlooking? Any and all advice appreciated. I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Thanks!

 

I took mine off up in there w a open end wrench. It was a pita for sure! I put them back on while the trans was lowered off the crossmember and it was much easier, as we're the bellhousing bolts.

 

Had to use a crows foot on an extension for mine. They should make one with a line wrench end. Maybe someone does, but I'm not even sure that would fit in there! You have to ne real careful to get that wrench on there straight. A P.I.T.A for sure!

 

Those things were such a pain!! Unbolted the crossmember and lowered the trans about 5 inches. Still difficult. Glad it's fixed though. Thanks!

 

this is a simple fix. but not even snap on or mac has ever tried.

back a long time ago when I was in High school and working for AAMCO doing RR. we always worked Fast! expl: a 70 g body was a 7 min rip.
edit for the dolt troll below!......ANY CHEVY 2 WHEEL REAR DRIVE....
a F body was the same 6 to 7 mins and the tranny was on the way to the back room. ( this was after the car was on the rack and in the air)
we just let the parts hit the floor and sweep them up..lol was fun to watch the customers ask if we remember where all the part go to...yes we remember.
and the big gulp cups always came in handy..

remove the cross member lower the tranny down just a bit..like you did above about 5"

if the lines are to tight to move by hand you use a 3/8 impact and a line wench crows foot. on the end of a universal impact wobbly. with a 10" extnsn.. just hit it one time fast tap... comes right undone with out any more probs.


one of the first tools ya make your self is taking a 1/2 in open end and cut it down to just under 2" long total. and slipping some fuel like onto it for grip. this is to undo the cooler lines the rest of the way..


when I was having probs with my tranny a few years ago (was a .50 cent part). I had mine out 7 times in one after noon. this was filling with fluid. setting up the shifter and kick down (I take it off at the pan) and was test driven 8 times..before I gave up and took it to a better trany guy.. was fixed in 5 min... valve body gasket had a small rip/tear in it I was missing...lol ..new gasket .50!

when ever you upgrade your 700R4
always install the 5 pinion planets and all the new stuff from the last 5 years.
spendy ...yes when your front drum is $500 and a 6 pinion plant is $1100
any thing less is stock
just think a 700R4 that is tough as a TH400 but with a overdrive!
and the shift from 1st to 2nd feels like a th400!! (rpms don't fall off from the diff gears)
yes you can have one too!

 

Talk about a load of BS! No such thing as a 70 G-body for starters. Not even going to comment on the the rest of the garbage outlined in this "fable".

 

Morgse...
maybe im off on the body styls..SO MANY ..my goof..OOPS
but.. ill make a short list for ya sparky.. has you have never done any R&R work in your life!

67 to 88 chevy anything.. 2 wheel rear drive. (THIS SHOULD COVER BODY STYLES!)WHAT ever they are..


always love how the unknowing/dolts chime in with some off the wall smart a$$ post/reply..ya must be from way north!!(not US)
spend some money on good parts. and you will see whats BS and whats fact!

now... go lay by your dish!.. ya dolt troll!

 

Wow.