dirtyracer64

So before I did this swap I did quite a bit of research in the effort to avoid the kind of problem I'm having. I got the whole swap, including the pedals, from a single donor car (97 TA) except the hydraulics, clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. The hydraulics are new pre-bled straight from GM and the clutch, pp and flywheel I purchased from the shop that built up the trans for me. They were from a wrecked 93 camaro but were practically new condition, but I did have him turn the flywheel due to some surface rust and hot spots.

Here's the issue, the clutch disengages (barely I'm assuming) when I first hop in it, but if I do any aggressive driving or slip the clutch too much during normal driving it won't full disengage. I better put in first gear before I come to a stop or I have to cut off the engine to get it in gear. Once stopped and in gear, if I take my foot off the brake the car will slowly start driving forward.

I tried bleeding it using the mighty vac, but only got one tiny bubble out. There are no leaks in the system.

What am I missing? It should work fine but it doesn't!!!

dirtyracer64

So I unbolted the slave and pushed it in a couple dozen times with my wife watching the reservoir and got quite a few tiny bubbles out of it.

I reinstalled it and tested to see if it feels any different - I couldn't tell a difference by feel.

I'll try it out later this afternoon and report back....

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Which did you use; a pilot bearing, or a pilot bushing?

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

curious if the fly wheel was cut before you bought it and the flywheel has been cut to much

dirtyracer64

I used a Kevlar bushing.....I think I know where your going with this....

Your thinking maybe the input shaft isn't turning freely in the bushing causing it to continue spinning at engine speed, thus not allowing the trans to be put into gear. Right?

I can only say that, tho possible, it's unlikely I would think. I can stick it in gear without the engine running, hold the clutch and crank it right up. If I take my foot off the brake while still holding the clutch, the car will creep forward. I wouldn't think a Kevlar bushing being tight enough on the input shaft to actually move the car is likely considering the surface area of that interface. However, it is still possible...I guess

I would think the more a flywheel is cut, the further forward the pp, clutch disc, and TOB are from stock, creating more clearance than stock between flywheel disc pp with each push of the pedal, with a pull style LT1 clutch. You'd be onto something if it were a standard push style clutch....I wish it was!!

dirtyracer64

BTW...the tiny bubbles that came out after working slave had no effect, the problem persists

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Back the transmission off the bellhousing a bit. Insert washers about .150" thick between the bell and trans at the bottom 6 bolts so the two trans to bell dowels are still engaged. Leave the top two out. Drive it gently. If it resolves, pull the trans and mill the fork tee a bit. Else, check back in.

dirtyracer64

I can remedy an issue like that by installing an adjustable MC, which was a little further down on the list of future upgrades. Looking more and more like it will be the next on the list!!

I'll end up needing it anyway more than likely when I do a racing clutch and probably steel bell housing as well.