Hello,


So I built a 10 bolt, but I want to do C-clip elminators. At the same time, I'd like to narrow the axle tubes slightly. I think, if I'm understanding this correctly, I can kill two birds with one stone. I'm using a 4th gen housing, so I'd like to cut 2" off each end so I can use 4.5" BS wheels.

I believe the moser axle ends will allow me to cut off the stock ends, and include a ford style bearing for use with aftermarket moser axles to eliminate c-clips:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-7900fm/overview/

Is this correct? So I would just weld these on, and buy some 28 spline axles with the pressed on bearing?

So then, the next question, I'm using LT1 style PBR brakes, will they bold up to this new axle flange?


-- Joe

 

You can do that, but you must use a housing fixture when welding the ends on. You can't just stick them on there and start welding. It's kind of an expensive thing to do to a weak rear end. You will probably spend around $600 to $800 on this. I'd start with a stronger rear end before spending that much on the little 10 bolt.

The 7900FM housing ends are for disc brakes. If you are going to use drum brakes then use the 7900 ends.

 

Ugh really? I thought they just slid over the housing and you weld them on slowly as to not distort the tube?

I already did a new locker, gear set, girdle and welded inner tubes. So I kinda wanted to keep the housing.

-- Joe

 

You have to use this for lining up the ends to hold them in place while welding them on. https://www.mittlerbros.com/rear-end...l?options=cart
If you don't use this then you will have bearing failures and the axle splines will wear quickly, if you can even get the axles to go in the housing at all.

 

I see, I just googled it and watched a video. So pull the carrier out, bolt the bushings in and the bar and then a bushing goes in each axle end. Seems easy.

Tool is like $400. Guess it's worth it if you do a lot of these lol..

So, does the lt1 caliper brackets bolt up to the Moser housing ends or is that yet another problem?

THANKS!

-- Joe

 

I think the LT1 brackets will fit the 7900FM ends. Most chassis shops will have this housing fixture and can weld the ends on for you. I've had one for many years and done many housings.

 

I may just buy the tool. Looks like the bushings are like $105 and the 1.25" round bar, 6 feet long is about $75.

I need to do a little more research on the brakes though, mainly the distance from the caliper bracket to the axle flange. Are the housing ends set up so the caliper brackets bold on and the bearing keeps the axle in the propper spot, or do they typically need shimming ?

-- Joe

 

The caliper bracket rests against the axle bearing and holds it in place. I've never seen any that needed to be shimmed. Chevy rear ends have 2 3/4 inch axle hang out. As far as I know this is the same on all of the '65 to current Chevy rear ends, 7.5, 8.2, 8.5 and 12 bolt.

 

So the caliper bracket actually goes on the axle before the bearing is pressed on, and is used instead of the retainer plate?

-- Joe

 

Yes.

 

Most people don't/won't hear that,...but it's TRUE.
Put your rear back together and sell it to someone who won't hear that, then use the money to upgrade.

In the gym, I tell people that underdeveloped glutes and hamstrings will cause knee problems later in life - they give support to the knee. Build a strong rear! You'll look better, too. Win-Win.

To get to the 9" reputation, costs a lot and is heavy. I went the 12 bolt route, and struggled to get what I wanted. I dislike Moser. DTS in MI does a good job, but uses Moser axles. Strange wouldn't build a TrueTrac (they push to S60, heavy) they'll do a locker, though; so I went with Mark Williams. You get what you pay for.

IF it's a keeper, build a strong rear.

 

Where are you seeing those prices? Not on the MittlerBros site, right? I am seeing much higher prices than those, and I have been eyeing those tools for a while, so if they are available somewhere else cheaper, I would be interested, or buying yours once you're done with them, lol

 

With Parking Brake:

 

The bushing kits are on ebay from various sellers. Of course the saddle and tube diameters are different for each application, so they are sold for 10 bolt, 12 bolt, 9", etc. Looks like around $105.

They recommend a 6' long 1.25" cold rolled round stock made from 1018 steel, which is about $72 from metals depot.


I realize the 9" or 12 bolt are better solutions, but I have a built 10 bolt, and people on here don't buy stuff. I'd get maybe $100 for the parts. Nobody is paying for a rear end to be shipped, and nobody locally builds these cars. So I'd rather beat it until it explodes.

-- Joe

 

I hear you on the different bushings, but I think you need to buy a specialized bar, it needs to be precision ground, I would think...

 

From the manufacturer:

Due to the high shipping cost of a solid steel bar five feet long , we suggest you source the alignment bar locally or online. Most people use a 1 1/4" o.d. 1018 solid steel cold rolled shaft 60" – 72” in length. The common bar diameter of 1018 cold rolled steel is 1.248” and works well. The industry standard for 1018 round bar is .002” smaller than the stated diameter. Chrome Moly, Stainless Steel and tubing may be larger than the 1.248" required. SpeedyMetals, OnlineMetals and DiscountSteel are a good source for the bar although you should be able to source it from a local welding or steel shop. Obviously the shaft needs to be straight, not rusty and the proper length for your project. Lightly lubricate the bar with oil.


-- Joe

 

What manufacturer?

The Mittler one says its ground and polished. I am not disagreeing, I think this is definitely one application where precision is key.

I would completely defer to Freddie on this, if he chimes in.

 

Leadmine.

When I started googling it, it was the mfg that everyone on forums were using, youtube howto videos, etc.

You can get a "complete" kit with everything for 400-500, or just a specific kit (i.e, 10 bolt) for $105. It's just a few bushings. The 9" ones have a huge plate too.


I've rebuilt a ton of rear ends. But I've never narrowed one.. It's one of those things where, I don't mind spending a few bucks trying it just to learn. I can measure, cut, and weld. It's more of education for me.

-- Joe

 

That's how I feel too. I would actually like to put floater ends on my 8.5" 2nd gen rear. I am never going to make enough power to break that rear, and I don't need/want a different housing. Well, a Winters quick change rear would be nice I don't see why I shouldn't put the time and investment into the 8.5" since it is going to do exactly what I want for low price and availability.

 

Cold rolled steel bars are far more precise than hot rolled and will probably be plenty straight and round for this application.