So I was driving along fine in bumper to bumper traffic when suddenly I feel a vibration in the clutch pedal. Then I couldn't get the clutch to engage smoothly. It was engaging harshly but still working. So I got off the freeway. Drove a few blocks and when I went to push the clutch in, pedal sank to the floor and I out came the rattlesnake. Rattle rattle rattle in sync with engine . Tried pushing in clutch pedal to engage first but it just caused the car to die. Started it back up. Rattle rattle. Pushing the clutch pedal somehow makes the engine come to a halt with a nasty rattle. So while off I stuck it in second gear and cranked her up while in gear and was able to get it home. Rattle. Rattle rattle... First failure since I did my auto to manual swap. It was running great with no issues since may 2021. Wondering what could be the issue here. Not familiar with clutch failures. My guess is TOB? I believe my master and slave are good as fluid is clean and full. What are some things to watch out for as I tackle this issue. Going to pull my engine and trans soon. Clutch kit I picked up from rockauto but TOB I bought separately from rockauto as well. Should have just went with the beefier corvette/ Lt4 atyle TOB I believe? Anybody shoot me a part number?

 

Yup, probably the throwout has failed.

What style of clutch is this? The LT1 "pull" type, or the traditional "push" such as LS1?

 

LT1 Pull type.

 

Good thing it isn't an expensive one.

Could also be that one of the "fingers" of the diaphragm has broken off.

Although we can make guesses all day, sounds like time for a personal inspection. Hardly matters though, with that system; AFAIK the throwout is integral to the clutch in all of those, so it hardly matters which individual part is bad, beyond mere intellectual curiosity. Gonna have to replace the same thing(s) regardless.

 

I hear ya, could be anything. Gonna be pulling it soon . Check out the horrible noise it makes when I push the clutch in , engine comes to a screeching halt. Sounds like more damage than just a TOB, and the constant clacking makes me believe im gonna find tons of debris. Any guesses? As far as the TOB, Seema like the one to use is the N1401. I heard about people welding 4 beads on the square face of the thing to better reinforce the unit. Anyone ever done that?

 

Removed the t56 and sure enough tob was the culprit. Thing just separated from itself. How long did yours last? Screeching/scraping noise came was the fork contacting the pressure plate. Going with a N1401. I removed the slave and the rod came out. Does it just slip back in? Can I just slip it back on and bolt it back in place without a problem?

 

Yup.

I won't guarantee THAT; but, just the fact it came out, won't prevent it.

When I bought a new hydraulics assy, the rod was just kinda dangling from the boot, in the box. There's nothing holding it in until it's installed.

 

Really, the new one came with the rod just dangling? Mine came with a zip-tie looking strap holding it together. I would assume it should be fine as long as it's not leaking correct? When I unbolted it I expected for the rod to shoot out followed by a stream of clutch fluid but that didn't happen. Well I'm waiting on the TOB and also contemplating replacing my clutch disc just because. Want to have a laugh, check me out as I pulled this unit and the damage the TOB caused. Hmm I got the thinking. Right now I'm running 4th gen pedals and as we all know the throw is different between 3rd and 4th gen pedal assemblies. On the 4th gen clutch pedal I barely have to push it in to switch gears/ shift/ release clutch. I use to have a 2.8 5 speed and I remember having to push the clutch pedal a little more to shift. On my 4th gen setup I would catch myself sometimes pressing the pedal in a little more than needed to actuate the TOB. I'm pretty sure the extra pressure didn't help the TOB survive. Was thinking of switching to a 3rd gen pedal setup. Damn and I just sold one. Might switch to third gen pedals if I come across another set. But regardless I would say this 12$ Rockauto china TOB lasted a good while and took tons of abuse like a champ.

 

Mine had come loose from the zip-tie thing somehow. Probably got bumped in shipping or something.

Worked completely fine once it was in the car though.

One would think, if one could (I can't), that the 4th gen pedal, 4th gen hydraulics, and 4th gen clutch, would all be compatible. Butt who knows. I ran the 3rd gen pedals with mine, and they're DEFINITELY not right: the pedal moves the MC rod WWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY too much, meaning the whole clutch range is up at the top and somewhat stiff, and I NEVER have to push it all the way in for any reason. In fact sometimes it makes a strange noise if I accidentally do that, so I avoid it. People who run the 4th gen ones say they work completely normal, so I doubt that's the root cause of your issue.

 

Ah I hear ya. Just gonna stick with the 4th gen components and limit how much I push the pedal down. Just ordered a N1401 from Jegs. Seems to me that the TOB is the weakest link in the whole clutch setup as It's always the first thing to go. Ever think about having your front plate machined for a hydraulic TOB like the LS guys. Wonder what's the failure rate on those .