There's a lot of info out there.
Who can offer a link to a successful 4L80 transplant into one of our 3rd gens?
I've read that there are tunnel mods needed. Also read that there are no tunnel mods needed. Crossmembers are many and varied.
And what of transmission controllers? Who's using what if not the OEM original?
FTR, this would be a 4L80 in place of the 4L60 that's presently on a work bench.
Talking with GearStar and one idea that was floated was going the 4L80 route and thereby eliminating the need for all of the 4L60 mods to make it live behind 500 HP/TQ (or thereabouts).

 

Here is an old internet bookmark I have. I did not re-read it, have no idea how good / bad the thread is.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...l80e-swap.html

And even though this is 4th gen, there are still similarities.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...en-f-body.html

 

Thanks for that.
Checking out the 3rd gen swap the part that piqued my interest was the no hammering of the transmission tunnel. Same driveshaft too albeit with a different slip yoke.
Since that thread is a little dated (2010) the transmission controller workaround has changed quite a bit. Stand-alones are more common now that they once were.

I've got to get back to my transmission guy and decide the fate of the 4L60. It's a lot of work, and not just throwing parts at it, to get that transmission to survive what I have in store for it. A 4L80 would solve a lot of that. And the shift programming would be an excellent upgrade although I could manage that with an "E" version of what I have. I'm basically starting with a new core and hoping to transfer as many of the good bits that I can. It's all up in the air at the moment.

Thanks again. Any more anyone?

 

I have enjoyed My 87 Camaro having a 4L80E for many years now!
There are unfortunately very few Options at my Power-Level...
I REALLY miss having a T-56 6-Speed.

But at your Power-Level, you have tons of Options!

 

If you do the swap, let me know. I have a brand new TCI flexplate left over from a previous swap attempt on my 2nd gen that I changed course on.

 

The term "at my power level" or even more specifically "for what I'm doing" has always unsettled me a little. In this case though Mr. V. I understand what you're saying. You've posted your history of high output and I've posted my "less than high output" version..
That said, I had an excellent conversation with Ryan Steeles at Gearstar. We discussed the transmission I had, and the transmission I need. All of that based on the 4L60 that was already on the table. He even went so far as to suggest that I ship the guts of the broken transmission to him and they'd harvest what good parts there were and build something suitable. I believe he overestimated the parts I had considering that once I sent him my build sheet (from the deceased 4L60) communications stopped. But, in that conversation he mentioned that a 4L80 would satisfy my requirements with out all of the hassle of that's needed to make the 4L60 live. Even at my "power levels" or for what what "I'm doing".
Anyway, this brings the conversation around to getting a 4L80. It seems that fitment isn't difficult. Even a drop in from some accounts. A controller would be needed of course (and that's not a bad thing really). But seeing as my 4L60 is still a mystery after it's demise, I have options to explore.
Now, if I have to spend a similar amount on an 80 as I did on the 60 for a modest power level input, then I'll ask, what's the point?
A 4L60 (despite the latest debacle) has served my needs well enough. I was hopeful that the latest iteration that self destructed, would have been more than capable but such was not the case. I think though that that result was poor assembly by someone unaware of the nuances need for a reliable result.
There's also the consideration I killed that transmission through my own negligence although history says I've a good handle on the everyday requirements.
So here I am again.

 

I'll certainly keep that in mind. (This is a Gen 1 SBC deal by the way).
My hope is that my new transmission guy will say, "No problemo. Easy peasy. Here's your race ready 4L60". But I'm not holding my breath.

 

People who recommend a 4L80E at your Power-Level (500HP or so)...
Do so, because they have no idea how to strengthen an Automatic Transmission (Especially in terms of doing so Hydraulically)!

I have THM200-4R (what I think of as Mini-4L80Es) Transmissions at your Power-Level that are going over 20-years Now, without issues!
(Smaller, Squeezes out a bit more HP, and accelerates faster with less rotational-mass and taller Gearing, compared to a 4L80E).


Just throw a Larger, more Heavy-Duty Transmission at the Problem... That will Fix it!

If we never learned how to strengthen Transmissions... The THM400 for Example, would Only handle 500HP and NOT the 3,000HP that they do today!

 

Yep Gen1 small block.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ate-168-a.html

 

So you understand where I'm at.
I know that a 4L60 will do what I want.
It's just that at this moment in time I don't have anyone that can do it. At least not so far as I can tell although that may change very soon.
If I wasn't in a situation where I want to drive (and race ) this season, I'd do the rebuild myself. It's well within my capabilities. But not within my time frame.

From the sounds of this conversation, the 4L80 isn't the cure-all.
​​​​​​​I'll have to wait and see how my plan plays out.

 

If someone did want to switch from a Throttle-Valve Controlled Transmission to an Electronically Controlled Transmission...

There are many options for Stand-Alone Controllers; one of which that has worked well for me is the "Quick 4" Controller.
This would be the "Bare Bones" approach to controlling the Transmission for about $800.
HyperLink to US Shift Quick 4 Controller below:
HyperLink

On the other hand, there is something like what Holley EFI has as a Stand-Alone Controller...
I very much like this Module and the fact that they use Industry Standard Connectors that I can Change out for the "Mil-Spec"/ "Motor-Sports Spec"
Versions of the Connectors and Build a High Quality Harness!


HyperLinks to the Holley Controller and Harness below:
Link 1

Link 2
Using all Holley Parts, including the Wiring...
The Cost should be around $920.

The $120 Difference to me is worth it!!!
...As I would make another small investment in Re-Working the Holley supplied Harnesses into something very nice and High-Quality!

 

Mine's a 2-piece RMS.




Thanks just the same. I'd be all over it otherwise.

 

I'm familiar with this controller as at one time (prior to my 4L60 non E) I was looking at what it would take make a go of it.

 

I got one in my car built with a Jake's lvl3 rebuild and recalibration kit, bought the hooker crossmember and the transmission bolted right in without any tunnel mods. I'm using a Dominator ECU so that's my controller. There's lots of controllers out there, some better/easier than others. I also grabbed the blue cats transmission tuning program off the interwebs to do all my shift points and tcc lockup.

Standalone controllers from microsquirt, MSD, Fast, Edelbrock vary in price from $500-$1000

 

One thing I observed on one swap was that there was attention paid to the engine/transmission angle.
IIRC it's somewhere between 3-4° down at the back. Something to me that's important to maintain.

 

A friend who swapped an LSX 454/4L60e into his 67 Chevelle was reluctant to modify his transmission tunnel to any great extent. He also had interference with the centre link and engine oil pan. As such he pushed the engine as far back as the Dirty Dingo engine mounts would allow. This further exasperated the trans tunnel interference. His solution was to increase the engine angle by dropping it a degree or two at the back. Consequently, the driveshaft angles were difficult to manage ultimately ending up with a pinion down attitude. Equal angles in the end but kinda goofy.
His exhaust was equally odd because of the cross member and his further reluctance to hire a proper exhaust guy for a little slice and dice to the aftermarket duals.

 

That said Mr V, it appears that my hopeful target of having WOT and OD is easier said than done. Certainly there's no one that I know of locally that I trust to do it.
140 MPH is looking to be unlikely. 3rd gear would mean 7000 RPM and that's not going to happen. At least not for 20 or 30 miles at a stretch.
Drag and drive was the original plan and it looks to be the plan going forward. That and a one mile event that might see 130 out of the old heap. I could do that in drive. No OD needed.
4L60 mods to accomplish the original plan are straightforward enough.

I do have to ask how the OEM B4C option played out though. The cop cars back in the day, 3rd gens Camaros, included were outfitted as such. What were their limitations?