Well lately my car doesn't seem to be starting as strong. It still starts first try, but sometimes better then others. I dunno if it's just me being picky or if there is a problem. I've read about similar problems that had to deal with the IAC. But the thing of that is, when I start my car in the morning after sitting over night (in a garage) why does the idle go up...... then down..... up....... down..... and eventually evens out. As far as I have learned about the ECM is that it runs open looped until the car gets warm then the car starts to rely on the senors (such as the IAC I'm assuming?) So then my next thought was, perhaps it's something along the lines of the ignition, so one night when I came home I popped the hood, but no jumping sparks...

So today as I was going through a drive through for dinner the car was really lopey... it was shaking like I had a frickin' huge cam in it or something. It somewhat sounds like it's missing. Maybe it's my timing? What should the timing be set to? And does having one of those Hypertech chips effect the timing from what it would be stock?

I just want her to run nice again and I'm tyring to understand. Lastly I thought perhaps it's the rotor and cap that need replaced, but I'm not entirely sure if that's the case, so I thought the best thing would be to bounce it off of you guys since a lot of you know you're stuff better then I do and you always seem to be very helpful! Thanks!

Mark

 

ive been having a problem similar to what you described, i have already replaced the cap and rotor, it made alittle difference but i still have the same problem, anybody know whats wrong?

 

When my 85 started acting up I cleaned the TB and the IAC. Turned out four of my injectors were bad (after a flow test)

 

Check timing. It may be out some.
Many of us V-6er's have high milage engines. Which means timing chain is stretching. So many of us no longer run our cars at 10*, we try between 12-16*. I know my car runs alot better at about 15*. So you can try this. Play around with it a bit.

Maybe you have a dead plug. Start the car up each time removing one plug wire. When it starts up and sounds the same with like #5 wire off replace that plug. I doubt this is the problem but I know my car's #5 plug brand new would not fire under pressure.

 

Honestly, when you have to advance your timing up to 12*to 14* because of timing chain wear you are better off spending 20 bucks on a new 3pc. timing set and replacing it.
It may run better just adjusting the timing but your cam to crank timing is retarded, losing horsepower.

 

Yeah, that is one thing I am definately going to check to make sure the timing is okay. As for high miles, I just turned 70k not that long ago, is that considered high?

This weekend I am going to clean out the TB. Question, how would you go about cleaning the IAC? Thanks!

Mark

 

Do a search...

 

Very good idea, sorry I forgot to even think about that! Thank you!

Mark

 

I found this article about the IAC

I'm going to try it all this weekend and hopefully I'll gain on this! Thanks for all your help, and I will be sure to let you know about my results.

Mark

 

There's also this: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=61408
and this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=62837

Ah, cool, my image worked. Damn, I'm a stud.

 

my car has been having the exact same problem for a while now

question: per say i check my timing after i have ran the car for a while and it went into closed loop, about where should it be??

after i shut the car off after running a while, if i start it up again when its still warm say like 3 minutes afterwards, will it be in open or closed loop?

i think closed loop, but i am not 100% sure

 

TomP - Thank you so much for those articles I printed them all out and I will use it in my efforts to help my car tomorrow! Again thank you!!

Mark

 

All depends on how the engine was driven or taken care of.
I've seen engines with less miles wore out because they were driven the crap out of them and didnt believe in changing the oil.
Ive seen engines that were taken care of go 150k miles that were absolutely flawless.

You have to take care of them like they are your children

 

I agree that is a better idea to replace it. But normally in the middle of the week you don't have time to replace the timing chain. its not that conveniant. Losing hp doesn't really matter when your engine has as many miles as mine.

 

The only problem with letting a timing chain go too long is they will break or strip the timing gear , Taking the valves out with it.
So instead of having a $20 timing chain job $300 valve replacement job.

Just food for thought.

 

had the same problem today, found out my firing order was wrong and my manifold melted one of my spark plug wires, the car had no power what so ever, and missed like a bitch but now it runs like a champ and my girlfriend wants to race me with her 2002 Cavalier Z-24, I will blow her doors in, Little does she know!!

 

i guess thats what the advance is for on my timing light

 

Well removing the IAC and such was quite a simple job. My 3.1L had two torx screws on either side of the IAC and once removed it simple slid out of the TB. It in fact solved my problem that I wrote in about. The car no longer revs up, then down then up then down as I stated. But now I'm kinda confused. When I turn my car over now, it doesn't feel as strong? It still starts first try, but I'm not exactly sure. I've made a second post about this though titled Cap & rotor. Thanks for all of your help!! It made it so much easier!!

Mark