Won't start, help
Won't start, help
Tom P or 89V6,
OK here's the deal....
Changed oil and filter. Car started and ran.
Had extremely grimey engine so used Simple Green spray after engine was warm. Let it cool down for 20 minutes to avoid cracking heads/block. Carefully hosed off engine compartment. Car started right up and idled great.
Changed park plugs, gapped at .045".
Car started and still idled great.
Changed fuel filter. Verified flow direction before, during and after install.
Car started and let run for 5 minutes. Idles smoother than ever.
Checked timing. Disconnected EST circuit (tan wire, blk stripe), engine warm, AC off, in drive. Only a very slight rotation of the distributor was required to obtain 10 deg reading. As expected, threw code 42. Disconnected battery, reset computer. Starts and idles great.
Time for a test drive. Make a square mile around neighborhood.
Mile 1, great acceleration, no hesitation. Awesome.
Mile 2, slight grade in road, a little more "pep". OK, I'll do 8mm plug wires and good brass cap/rotor tommorrow.
While approaching mile 3, car dies at stop light, WHAT? Tried restarting. Cranks OK. Hmm?
Walked 2 miles back home. Had wife help tow it home. I don't work on cars after 11:00pm.
Troubleshooting accomplished so far.
1. Compression tested 2 cylinders (1 & 4) 150 minimum reading.
2. Timing chain. #1 cyl at TDC, timing marks on "0".
3. Remove distributor cap, cranked on balancer pulley both directions, less than 3 degrees of rotational difference between balancer pulley and distributor rotor.
Those should rule out any valve train problem.
4. Fuel pump and fuel pump relay "cycles" during start. Removed shrader valve cover from fuel rail line. Depressed pin, pressure in line. No gauge, but pressure should be sufficient to at least start and idle.
5. Disconnected #1 spark plug wire, grounded to intake manifold. Faint spark. Disconnected coil wire to distributor, grounded to intake manifold, "Hot" spark. Drive to Autozone, get brass cap and rotor. Installed verifying firing order. Hot spark at #1 Plug wire, still no start. Using digital OHM meter, all spark leads are fine.
6. Had son crack engine while I wiggled and jiggled every wire under hood, still will not start.
I knew buying a car that had been babied would expose hidden problems, but.....
If you guys have any suggestions or solutions, please advise.
I think the only thing now is to take it to the dealer for diagnosis and "raping" of my wallet!
OK here's the deal....
Changed oil and filter. Car started and ran.
Had extremely grimey engine so used Simple Green spray after engine was warm. Let it cool down for 20 minutes to avoid cracking heads/block. Carefully hosed off engine compartment. Car started right up and idled great.
Changed park plugs, gapped at .045".
Car started and still idled great.
Changed fuel filter. Verified flow direction before, during and after install.
Car started and let run for 5 minutes. Idles smoother than ever.
Checked timing. Disconnected EST circuit (tan wire, blk stripe), engine warm, AC off, in drive. Only a very slight rotation of the distributor was required to obtain 10 deg reading. As expected, threw code 42. Disconnected battery, reset computer. Starts and idles great.
Time for a test drive. Make a square mile around neighborhood.
Mile 1, great acceleration, no hesitation. Awesome.
Mile 2, slight grade in road, a little more "pep". OK, I'll do 8mm plug wires and good brass cap/rotor tommorrow.
While approaching mile 3, car dies at stop light, WHAT? Tried restarting. Cranks OK. Hmm?
Walked 2 miles back home. Had wife help tow it home. I don't work on cars after 11:00pm.
Troubleshooting accomplished so far.
1. Compression tested 2 cylinders (1 & 4) 150 minimum reading.
2. Timing chain. #1 cyl at TDC, timing marks on "0".
3. Remove distributor cap, cranked on balancer pulley both directions, less than 3 degrees of rotational difference between balancer pulley and distributor rotor.
Those should rule out any valve train problem.
4. Fuel pump and fuel pump relay "cycles" during start. Removed shrader valve cover from fuel rail line. Depressed pin, pressure in line. No gauge, but pressure should be sufficient to at least start and idle.
5. Disconnected #1 spark plug wire, grounded to intake manifold. Faint spark. Disconnected coil wire to distributor, grounded to intake manifold, "Hot" spark. Drive to Autozone, get brass cap and rotor. Installed verifying firing order. Hot spark at #1 Plug wire, still no start. Using digital OHM meter, all spark leads are fine.
6. Had son crack engine while I wiggled and jiggled every wire under hood, still will not start.
I knew buying a car that had been babied would expose hidden problems, but.....
If you guys have any suggestions or solutions, please advise.
I think the only thing now is to take it to the dealer for diagnosis and "raping" of my wallet!
You need 4 things to make an engine run -
1 spark
2 fuel
3 compression
4 timing
If you've checked for spark - next I'd check for fuel. a lot of people don't like to use it, but a can of spray start (ether) is handy here - spray a bit in your intake - car runs then dies - you got fuel problems.
1 spark
2 fuel
3 compression
4 timing
If you've checked for spark - next I'd check for fuel. a lot of people don't like to use it, but a can of spray start (ether) is handy here - spray a bit in your intake - car runs then dies - you got fuel problems.
Doubt it's much
Except a loose connection, now exposed.
I would also inform you the spark you see (upon testing for spark) it MUST be lightening white.
I think it's just a loose connection.
Except a loose connection, now exposed.
I would also inform you the spark you see (upon testing for spark) it MUST be lightening white.
I think it's just a loose connection.
Borrow or buy a timing light (they're not that expensive) and check your timing and spark - if you have the above 4, it has to start - its a law of physics or somithin'
(unless your car is inhabbited by evil spirits - thats a whole other thing):lala:
(unless your car is inhabbited by evil spirits - thats a whole other thing):lala:
Wake up call, for Mr. Ghost...
You must have overlooked that element of my original post. Followed factory specs as deatailed by both sticker and book.
Other suggestions, anyone?
Other suggestions, anyone?
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I recently had my Firebird "repaired" at a mechanic.
It cost me a 12 pack of Coronas.
My the Good Fortune spread your way.
I'll still bet it's something simple.
You did everything right.
It cost me a 12 pack of Coronas.
My the Good Fortune spread your way.
I'll still bet it's something simple.
You did everything right.
Well, here goes.
Towed car myself to dealership (read here tight wad saved $50.00) Left detailed instructions to Pontiac dealer/mechanic as to what I had already checked. Also instructed them to "troubleshoot/diagnose only, DO NOT REPLACE ANYTHING WITHOUT PERMISSION!"
Second day at dealership, advisor called and said a new ignition coil would fix my problems at the rate of $261.00?
After I picked myself up off the floor (read here hysterical laughter), I said "I'd fix it myself, thank you".
I did have to pay $90.00 for the diagnosis, but the ignition coil from O'reillys for $39.00 works great.
Moral of the story..................
If the ignition system is not throwing actual bolts of lightening from Thor, your ignition coil may be why it ain't startin'.
Thanks for all the advice. I never would have thought the energy from the coil had to be so high. It really arc's a BIG gap now.
Towed car myself to dealership (read here tight wad saved $50.00) Left detailed instructions to Pontiac dealer/mechanic as to what I had already checked. Also instructed them to "troubleshoot/diagnose only, DO NOT REPLACE ANYTHING WITHOUT PERMISSION!"
Second day at dealership, advisor called and said a new ignition coil would fix my problems at the rate of $261.00?

After I picked myself up off the floor (read here hysterical laughter), I said "I'd fix it myself, thank you".
I did have to pay $90.00 for the diagnosis, but the ignition coil from O'reillys for $39.00 works great.
Moral of the story..................
If the ignition system is not throwing actual bolts of lightening from Thor, your ignition coil may be why it ain't startin'.
Thanks for all the advice. I never would have thought the energy from the coil had to be so high. It really arc's a BIG gap now.
I would also inform you the spark you see (upon testing for spark) it MUST be lightening white.
Now you know the difference when I said that earlier.
My coil went.
Knew not a thing, because I still got "Spark".
Later discovered how bright white it must be!
Rebuild your distributor now and enjoy your new engine!
Good going!
Now you know the difference when I said that earlier.
My coil went.
Knew not a thing, because I still got "Spark".
Later discovered how bright white it must be!
Rebuild your distributor now and enjoy your new engine!
Good going!
The distributor was a recent remanufactured replacement from the original owner.
Now for the most humbling experience......
All Praise KED85 and Akshay.
Hereby appointed honorable "Shrewed Dudes"!!:hail: :hail:
Now for the most humbling experience......
All Praise KED85 and Akshay.
Hereby appointed honorable "Shrewed Dudes"!!:hail: :hail:
PULEEEEEEASE
Want to know how long it took me to discover my coil was bad?
I checked all injectors.
I replaced modular
I rebuilt distributor.
What was left?
I pulled the Accel coil from my 1985 S-10 Blazer (that had over 100,000 miles on it & 8 years of usage!) inserted it into my Firebird.
Car started.
Be thankful it was as easy as it turned out to be.
Only after engine starting, did I discover how bright lightening white the spark from the spark plug wires, must truly be, for the engine to run.
I felt just like you!
I only hope I can always help to cheat a dollar back into your pocket.
Rebuild your distributor & change the timing chain now for that "new" engine feel! You'll be VERY pleased!
Want to know how long it took me to discover my coil was bad?
I checked all injectors.
I replaced modular
I rebuilt distributor.
What was left?
I pulled the Accel coil from my 1985 S-10 Blazer (that had over 100,000 miles on it & 8 years of usage!) inserted it into my Firebird.
Car started.
Be thankful it was as easy as it turned out to be.
Only after engine starting, did I discover how bright lightening white the spark from the spark plug wires, must truly be, for the engine to run.
I felt just like you!
I only hope I can always help to cheat a dollar back into your pocket.
Rebuild your distributor & change the timing chain now for that "new" engine feel! You'll be VERY pleased!
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