well here it is, I have the 2.8 from hell.

I bought the car and it was missing. After replaceing plugs,wires,distributor i ran a compression test. There test read 0 on the #1 cylinder. So for about two weeks now i ripped apart the top portion of the engine and had a valve job done on the cylinder heads. Well, today i started it up and it was still missing, Figures, Anyway i ran the compression test on the #1 and it still reads 0.

Does anyone have any other idea on what could be wrong???

Please no posts about upgrading to a 3.4. That seems to be everbody's answer around here.I wanna keep the 2.8

 

Broken or siezed rings. How'd the cyl wall look on the #1 cyl. in question? Whats the color/condition of that cyl.'s sparkplug?

 

I blew had gaskets on my 1985 S-10 Blazer 2.8/carb'd at 211,500 original non rebuilt miles.
How much will your engine rebuild cost and all ya get is a small engine.

I have fun with these 6's. Seems ya do to. Seek out best solution for ya effort.
Don't count out a larger engine if ya score it cheap.
Cause ya gonna need another engine.
This one is toast.
IF ya adjust valves again, perhaps you may gain some compresion.
BUT in the end, you're still working with a small aged many miles engine. That will have to be removed anyway, eventually, maybe sooner than ya wanna-bummer.
It was that problem (I just blew the 2.8 in a decent otherwise 85 Firebird) that helped me find this easy, inexpensive, back on the road cheap & quicker 3.4 swap solution, too!

How is the condition of the current carb & distributor?
I've rebuilt both (including new throttle shaft bushings on primary of the carb-necessary!).
Good luck with your hunt.
It's tough decision time

What size is a 4.1? I don't recall that option?
3.8 V-6, sure in the 1979 Camaros & Firebird.
Gas crisis same day solution from the General

PS Some people have scored complete running long blocks 3.4's for as little as $200, average is $500-ish. Yeah, I pay more, but my choice for what I seek in my 60* V-6 engine swap missions.

 

the 4.1 is a punched out 3.8 from the factory. didn't really catch on though.

Is the car propperly timed/ is fully seated/adjusted? seems odd that only 1 cylinder is bad, unless the rings are gone, but then it should leak down & not just be zero.

 

the timing is good, so is the carb and distrib.

I get about 45-50 on the other cylinders but when i hook it up to the #1 the guage just doesn't move. When i bought the car, it was not running and the owner told me that the engine was probally shot. Wow, i guess he was right. I guess i'll rebuild it, it probally needed it anyway.



By the way, the 4.1 is an inline 250 , it was offered from 67-79 in the camaros. Its been a reliable engine but just not alot of power.


Thanx for the post

 

am still pretty sure ther is a 4.1 v-6. will check out in turbobuick.com for jistory of the 3.8

if you want a stronger drivetrain for the camaro, I can get you a good deal for a 76 bonnie, 400/400.

You know, everythings faster w/a poncho in it :hail:

 

45-50 PSI???? Damn that motor is done. Our v-6's need about 120-130 psi to run.

Did you have the heads machined when you did the gaskets?

 

As far as timing, what about cam/valve timing? Did you mess with the timing chain at all? If the timing chain wasn't installed straight up, valves will be open at the wrong times... and you have to pull & reinstall the timing chain to fix it.

You could pull the valve covers, bring the #1 cylinder (or ANY cylinder) up to TDC on the compression stroke, and watch the rocker arms to make sure the valves are closed.

You could also have a shop perform a leak-down test; then they could tell if the valves were leaking. They sell gauges for about $60 but you need an air compressor ("shop" size, not a tire inflator) to run it.

Also, did you see CHVYPWR's question, about how did the cylinders and cylinder walls and pistons look when the heads were off?

Oh, one more thing: Verify that your compression gauge is working right. Last time I checked compression on my +230,000 mile V6, I nearly passed out- zero compression. Turned out the pressure release valve, really just a screw-in tire stem valve, was leaking. I replaced it with one I had in the garage, and then I saw some "real" compression. Maybe your gauge is just bad! Try it out on a friend's or family member's car. Also make sure that the engine is warm, that you remove the coil wire from the distributor cap, AND that you wire the throttle linkage OPEN.

And don't forget to remove the wire from the throttle linkage before you start the car!!!