Hey guys,

I just registered here, and I would like to know a few things...


First off, How do the people here treat eachother?

What kind of things would getr you considered a "Lamer" here?

Next:

I own a 1985 Camaro F1 2.8L V6 Sport-Coupe Berlinetta...

I would like to put a 350 V8 into it, but that would involve alot of frame work becvause unfortunatly my frame is pretty bad, so I was wondering what kind of preformance mods I can put on my 2.8 V6?

Supercharger? Blower? Flowmaster exhaust?

Are there any other preformance mods I can do to it, I was thinking of taking the whole thing apart and cleaning it piece by piece, but I dunno yet..

a 305 Might work aslong as I keep it from making over 400 - 480 pounds of torque... But I dunno, I just want to stick with my V6 but I want to "Spice it up" aswell...


Any Idea's guys?


Also I have a leak in the drivers side manifold and a heater core leak, my passengers side floor has a pool of antifreeze in it, how would I fix my heater core problem?

And last but most likely not least, my steering box bolt snapped and now my steering box is free in the engine compartment, and whenever I turn the wheel, The steering colum rubs against the belts, where could I get a good passenger and driverside manifold for cheap, and how can I fix my heater core problem?

And can somebody show me how I can access the heater core?

yeah yeah yeah I know my car is a POS but thats what I get for $400.00

 

Ok, I am somewhat new here also so I have no clue how to access the heater core. Get a chiltons or haynes manual and it should tell you.

Manifolds, try your local salvage yard, or car-part.com, or see If a guy on here named Camaro Hunter will make you a set of headers since your a new person.

Power options... aftermarket coil, brass cap/rotor, cam, roller rockers, power crank pully, 8-8.8mm wires, your favorite plugs, 180* stat, make your own chip, Make a CAI.

As for your power steering, that should just take some time to repair, you might have actaully ripped the frame, I'm not sure.

Ooo, BTW, I payed 400 for my car, and put 2500+ into gettting it running and functional. Take a look at my page listed below.

Welcome to the board, hang around, we can help you out, it just takes time. For the most part, you don't insult others, we won't insult you. Read, replay if you have any ideas/thoughts. Thats what I started out doing.

 

i'm pretty sure the haynes manual goes into a nice ammount of detail about pullint the heater core, i know i've read through it atleast once when i was thinking of changing mine (which leaks) but you should check in there....I believe you have to remove the top of the dash, and maybe the bottom panel where the ECM is located also, then remove a couple clips from the bottom, and pull the core straight out from the top. it'ssomething like that.

As for your v8 swap or a beefed up v6, you can do either. If your frame is truly shot, you're most likely going to need to strenghten it in either case. Suspension might be bad, but that's a much eaisieser fix than a frame modfication, but if ones needed, find a good welder and go to him, (not his company) to see how much HE chargers, to reweld part of the frame, and put a another piece of steel in it also. .... V8 swaps consist of a few things, radiators, motor mounts, engines, and trannies. if you live in an emessions state, you should really check into seeing how strict they are on motor swaps, and if they aren't all that strict (like missouri) you can swap another engine in, as long as it's newer than the your old engine. So, i couldn't put a 455 pontiac in it, but i can do an LS1, or a L98 (350 Tuned Port Fuel Injection). And going fuel injection should help keep gas millage up, and polution down, but then you've gotta buy a computer too....

Neway, welcome to the board, if you don't wanna get flamed, just don't lie on here, and everyone will be pretty nice to you.

 

well my camaro is Fuel injected and a rear wheel drive so I need to find a Fuel Injected rear wheel drive engine, and as for that I would ratehr beef up my 6 and then later one sell the 6 and get a 350 fuel injected engine... :lala:

 

Who is this camaro hunter guy, will he make me a set of headers and manifolds for free??

If so I would really like to talk to him..

also I do have a very limited budget, being a 15 year old and all just getting started on my firsdt car restoration. my dad is only will to put the money in it to fix the body and engine the rest is up to me... IE preformance stuff and I have to fix the manifolds and stuff so I am trying to spend as little as possible. so if Camaro hunter could make me some headers and manifolds for free I would very much appriciate it..

 

where do u live in canada, i'm in SK.

Well, you could swap in a 350 or 305 and DITCH the computer.

Or swap in a 3.4 L Engine, way more HP and torque,

2.8 has 135/170, 3.4 has 160/200. (u get the 3.4 outa new camaros and firebirds (93-97)

Camaro hunter sells them for $150 us I think, and you gotta get an exhaust shop around you to make a Y-pipe for you.

 

hmmm, I live in Hamiton, Ontario...

I would like it to be fuel injected, though. I am still searching for a 305 fuel injected for cheap if any of you guys know anyone that is will to sell one for a cheap 200 canadian or less. let me know...

As for now I want to "hype" up my 2.8.

 

No, he dont make them for free, their around 150-200 bux. Their are other companys that make them, but have problems with them fitting all models (think its standards they dont fit). He was gonna try to mass produce them outta his house, but was getting nibbles, but no full bits, so he shut the idea down to most. If I rem his post right, he will consider making them (when he has time) for newcommers. Will have to find him in here, and email him, etc.

 

easiest way for you to find a 305 v8 would be to simply search the bone yards that you come across....they're plentiful, also call around to the junk yards. It'd actually be easier to find a 350 most likely, cause they're in everything from camaro/firebirds to trucks, they're easy finds and have been around for ages. And, unless u've got tons of dough, making 400hp out of a 350 is still going to be difficult. If you're going to replace the current motor, u should simply know that all you'll need is basically a long block, engine block w/ pistons and crank installed, heads installed, u can then use your own oil pan, if ur lucky, it'll have an oilpump already installed. Ur intake manifold will also be used, etc. if you swap to a 3.4L, u can use ur stock computer, sensors , etc, and then run your regular fuel injection on top of the motor. A v8 swap , or any v6 swap besides the 2.8/3.1/3.4 L will require more changes than simply an engine block, like i said, look for trannies, engine mounts, radiator, and front struts and springs. GL...oh, serach for the 3.4 swap boogie by ked85 , he's got a great formula for doing a 2.8L/3.4L engine swap. V8 swaps can be found also, check the v8 board though , or the motor swap board.

 

is a 3.4 a V8? or still the 6?


Also so all i will really need is the engine for the 3.4, and I can just leave it stock sensors and stuff in there

 

Go to the Tech Thread section and view my 2.8-> 3.4 long block swap boogie.
I wrote I did it & I'm doing it again (See below)
It's a V-6 from the 4th gen series.

I DO NOT DO MY SWAPS FOR MAX HP
I do smog legal in California swaps.
They work right.
Ask about the 30+ people whom have done this so far.
IT'S A COMMITMENT.
BUT I'd SERIOUSLY consider your frame problems.
Sounds like it's shot.
CONSIDER ALL YOUR OPTIONS including possible starting with a new or better rust free project.
Good luck

 

what if I take it to my dad's friend he is a welder and get him to put on half inch pieces of steel throughout the whole rfront end frame?

Think that will hold, the car may be heavy, but meh..

Also I can't find your thread.....

 

I searched and found it for ya.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ck+Swap+Boogie

Wish I could discover the distributor rebuild article I wrote this easy

 

Welcome to the board, Supersport.. and yeah, quickest way to get flamed around here is to lie about things like 1/4 mile time or having a turbo... proof is the key. But we're usually nice

I wouldn't drive the car at all until you get the steering box checked out. Are you just missing a bolt? Then put a new bolt in... or, better yet, undo the second bolt, and see if the framerail behind the box is cracked. It's a common problem; GM came out with a "wonderbar", aka steering box brace, on IROC and other WS6 (ws6=performance suspension) cars. Do a search (upper right hand corner of screen, or just click here: <a href="search.php?s="><img src="images/top_search.gif" alt="Search" border="0"></a> ) and look for "wonderbar" in the "Suspension/chassis/brakes" forum, you'll find the messages. And if it is cracked, yeah, reinforcing the area with some steel will do the trick. You wouldn't have to reinforce the whole frame area, just what's behind the heater box.

The heater core's easy work, but it's a lot of work, which makes it a pain in the butt. Most of your work is done in the tight area under the passenger side of the dashboard, with little 7mm screws that are hard to reach.

Junkyards will be full of the exhaust manifolds, they're hard to get at, though. (And of course, headers replace the manifolds.) You can get some extra power from the exhaust by smoothing out the ridge inside the manifold-to-y-pipe "donuts". These allow a gasketless connection between the exhaust manifolds and y-pipe flanges, they're made of iron, but that ridge impedes exhaust flow. I smoothed mine out with a metal file (round), and then followed it up with a polish using a cutting stone in an air tool- but if you don't have air, you could use a fine metal file, or maybe even some sandpaper. Just be careful loosening the y-pipe nuts, they'll be rusted on tight. What's wrong with your manifolds, anyway?

 

Quote:

First off, How do the people here treat eachother?

What kind of things would getr you considered a "Lamer" here?

Yeah, as mentioned before, just don't lie.

There are just as many awesome people on here as there are morons, as with anything that has as many members as TGO does....

But yeah, a lot of people on these boards really know their stuff, so don't try to BS them. You WILL get caught. Hehe.

 

Oh, and just so you know, you're gonna have to take a lot of time at the carwash or whatever vacuuming and shampooing that Ecto-cooler out of your passenger side footwell, it takes forever to get out seems like. But it will come out. If it's really bad, taking the carpet out and letting it air out for a while helps.

 

Ugh, didn't even think of that... I hate antifreeze to begin with. I'd rather deal with gear oil! (yuck) I'm glad I don't have to try and get it out of my carpet!

Shoot, speaking of which, I meant to replace my heater core this summer, before classes started up again, as preventative maintenance. Dammit. Maybe I could do it this weekend... damn, I hate antifreeze.

 

First off i have aq hole in the drivers side manifold, which is very loud and annoying... The bolts ARE rusted to **** on the manifold so I am going to need an air ratchet or pry bar on them, most liely a propaine torch too... ...

NEXT the bolt snapped on the gearing box and the screw bit is stuck in the frame.. I would need some sort of torch to even attampt to get it off.

NEXT i put my rubber floor mats undernith the leak and none has gotten on the carpet thus far. I really gotta get that fixed though..

Also I have very sqeaky belts is there anyway of permanently getting rid of that.?


I know I know my car is a POS, it also needs a **** load of body work...


Oh well , besides I don't lie so I should do well here.

Thanks KED for finding the article I appriciate it... Um my manifolds are "y" manifolds not "T" which is alright. So yeah I will have to search for that...

 

I read if you pour Pepsi or Coke on the belts it quiets them down alot.
Hope I offer help with decision process

 

that actually works?

 

Try it.
ENGINE OFF
Dribble some down on the belts.
Soda is STICKY
I've never done it, but also a bar of soap against belts works, also. (tried & works-engine running tho)
OR NEW ONES

 

hmm, I am still think about the pop, r u sure that will work? I don't want to go and **** up my belts

 

IN ALL HONESTY
Ya know
Deep down
they do have to be changed
cause they squeal.
How can you ruin them?
You're only buying time......

Incidentially, spoke to a guy that sells GM Performance Parts thru a dealer.
He agreed my "2.8->3.4 used low milage Long Block swap boogie" swapping idea is "fair value for the effort".
He confirmed what I've heard in person so often,
"Once ya open up a 2.8........"
By the time you are done on that 2.8 project, parts, machining etc.
The 3.4 purchase crate engine is such a value.
At only $1600-$1800 ya get zero mile, brand new warrantied long block, ALL the BEST 60* Speed parts GM can offer, you only need swap your old MPFI stuff onto it, add 3.4 injectors & go.
Sell the old left over 2.8 block for some "pocket change".
If you obtain your car for low purchase price, this is the best way to get it right again.
Add rebuilt tranny (you'll need it! & will eventually "do it").
You're gone!

 

The only reason why I am even considering wasting money into my 2.8 Bird is because it is my first car, which I deem very, very special. I don't care about doing the quarter mile in 10 seconds. I just like cruising. I will probably end up spending 2k on an engine that will only see 200 BHP max if I am lucky. I like challenges, and making a 2.8 go as fast as a V8 is an interesting challenge for me.

I would be too easy to buy a 350 fbody and add bolt ons and go fast. I would definately have fun and be happy, but if I could do that with a 2.8l my happiness would quadruple. I would get more oohs and awes from a 300 BHP V6 than a 300 BHP 350.

Right now, my main concern making sure my engine runs. I don't care how much horspower I pick up here and there. All I care about is the time I can cut when I do a mod.

Just my opinion. I don't know why you other guys bother to mod your 60 degree V6.

 

1st second or third car (had too many
I spent my swap effort on a larger engine with lower milage no machining costs & gained the 165 HP & 200 Foot Pounds of torque plus vehicle longevity on the road.
I paid $800 & $900 for my examples.
Why spend $2K when you can have new for $1800 or less (the crate 3.4 engine).
Wish I had your spare cash lying around.
I'd be buying lots of AOL/Time Warner stock (best buy out there now, will split-up business someday again).

Want to spend money on an emotion?
FIND A BEAUTIFUL GIRL SPEND TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS ON HER GET BETTER RESULTS!

 

Karl, look into Auto Zone stock, it's doubled in past year or so

 

I am kind of eccentric, I know the 3.4l swap is more affordable, but I want that challenge of producing power from a 2.8l, sort of a no mans land. Someone had the idea spending a fortune on the 2.8l into thier Datsun.

 

Someone had the idea spending a fortune on the 2.8l into thier Datsun.

Be very wise person.
Invest in REAL ESTATE!

I've retired until my next house project.
I'm seeking to purchase & work on three houses at one time.
That's a SOLID RETURN ON YOUR INVESTMENT.

Besides that.
Women are MUCH SOFTER & WARMER than bruising a knuckle on a "on the 2.8l into thier Datsun."

Glad to know you have realized the truth, tho (the 3.4).
Happy dreaming

 

be real eccentric, drop an L36 in your 3rd gen. the one in the GP stupid quick for a 6.

 

Get some belt dressing, it's like two bucks at Autozone, shut my truck up pretty quick...

 

Just because I want to spend some serious money into my 2.8l doesn't mean I am not planning on getting a house, or investing in stocks, mutual funds, money markets, or orther real estate.


Everyone always talks about making their 2.8l fast. No one has seem to have done it in an Fbody. My goal in life is to be the first one to actually do it. That's why I don't talk about my engine plans to often, I would rather wait until I actually have the time and money before I started talking about a fast 2.8l.

 

Enjoy!

 

Are you sure? I just used a socket & ratchet on mine. They're not in there tight. Just make sure you use a quality 6 point socket, not a cheap k-mart/wal-mart/foreign-made no-name socket. Cheap sockets from "100 piece socket set for $15.99" sets don't work, and mess up bolt heads, creating worse problems. The $5 you'll spend on one Craftsman or Husky socket (or $40 for a set, $55 for a nice set) will save a lot of headache!!! (Plus, lifetime warranty = you only buy the socket once!!) One problem though, is the bolt heads usually snap. I think it's because the bolt heads rust to the manifolds. I've worked on 3 different heads, including MINE, where the head of the bolt was missing. When I took the manifold off, I just squeezed a pair of vise grips onto the remaining bolt shaft, and, using just my own hands, loosened/removed the remainder of the bolt. Oh yeah, and a shot or two of liquid wrench, but the LW wasn't left on there for very long... a few seconds. So something else has gotta be snapping the bolt heads.

Don't reuse the bolts, buy new... remember, these are metric bolts, not standard thread. You'll have to go to an auto parts store for them, NOT home depot. The bolts are metric grade 10.9, which is equivilant to a standard grade 8. (8.8 is NOT the same thing! It's a standard grade 5.) Home Depot doesn't carry 10.9 hardness bolts. I found my bolts at Pep Boys, in bins, in the hardware aisle. They also sell these bolts in hang-up packages, but they're expensive (2 chrome ones for $1.99 as opposed to $0.50 each for a black one). Also, buy a tube of anti-seize. Use it to coat the threads of each bolt before you thread them in. The short bolts are "M8 1.25 x 40mm", and the long bolts are "M8 1.25 x 70mm". And make sure they're 10.9 (on the bolt head)... 8.8 won't cut it. Remember to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, and they're not in there with much torque, I believe only 20 foot pounds?? Can anyone remember?

[edit] As for the squeaky belts... ever put new belts on yet? Belts can "glaze" over if they're old, or, if you put new belts on, and don't tighten them enough. Our 85-86 belts are a bitch to tighten, I'd start there, first. 'Course if the belts are glazed over then you'll have to buy new ones.