Every morning when I'm on my way to class or work and after I've let my car (v6-1984 camaro) warm up for at least 2 1/2 minutes, it dies for a couple seconds, maybe less. The battery is still running but the car just stops. Is it just my fuel filter or could it be a more serious problem?
thanks!

 

I had the same problem a couple of years ago, but the problem mysteriously went away. Sorry, I wish I could help.

 

84 would be carbed correct??

When it does, do you smell raw fuel, anything like that??

My only opinion, which I have never dealt with carbs, but they tend to have to rebuilt quite a bit.

 

yeah it's got a carb in it. my fuel was actually burning rich until i got a tune-up. since then i haven't really smelled as much gas.

 

try checking timing, plugs, and your vacuum at idle. any one of those can cause that.(and some others) how old is fuel pump, its opn the block, so not that difficult to change, just a thought. IF you do change it, change fuel filter and get an additional see through filter mounted where you can see it clearly. That way you know if there is any crap in gas tank.

 

Sounds like a problem with the choke adjustment.

 

Yeah, I had almost the same issue with my bird. Though, my issue was a vaccume leak. I agree with camaro_hunter_c where you should check all those goodies out, and post your Idle.

Also while idle, if it runs really rough, that could be another sign of your issues, however, I don't know how rough a carb runs.


-type


p.s. when my intake had the vac leak, it felt like one of those old crusty hotel beds that took a dime to start the earthquake style vibrations. lol

 

i think i figured out what was wrong. for some odd reason there was a tube floating about my engine. so i put it back.

heres a pic of the tube. be nice to me, i know my engine is dirty and needs work ...college and work is killing my time.

 

Isn't that part of the pollution control system??

 

looks like it.

That may be the reason for the rough idles and stalls. Might be the vaccumes as suggested.

but thats only my opinion.

should look for more stuff, but ill be darned if that wasnt it.

 

What do you mean by the battery is still running? Did reconnecting that hose fix the problem? Doesn't seem like it would. After the engine stalls out, and you restart the motor, does the car stall again? Or is it fine? Are you driving, and come to a stop, and that's when it stalls, or does it stall as you're in motion?

 

no your right it didn't fix the problem.
it's always first thing in the morning when i haven't been driving my car for like 9 hrs. after i warm it up i'll be driving and the car feels like its stopping yet the radio still works n' everything, but once it stops for those few seconds it starts running (don't have to restart it). almost as if it doesn't completely stop running all together, just pauses for a few seconds (even if i push the gas pedal it doesn't do anything).
i bought a new fuel filter though, good thing it didn't cost very much. i'll replace it when it stops raining outside.

 

i would make sure your battery didn't run to seven eleven or burger king, it could be hazerdous...... anyways, i had a similar problem with my 84 305 carb. what i did was change my oil and tune up the carberator and replace the stupid little vaccum hose right behind the carberator. it was so spongy and decrpid that it was sucking in air until the car warmd up and then stopped. i don't know why and i didn't even care why but it worked and it fixed itself after that. are you throwing any codes??? any other simtims??? oh and make sure your battery doesn't run awau fro the car after it stalls.

 

i'm gonna get the oil changed this weekend, and take a look at that hose. thanks for your help. and i'll make sure my battery doesn't run away from me

 

That hose looks like it's connected to the air injection system.
It wouldn't cause stalling though. It's not exposed to manifold vacuum or anything.

 

happens on my car when I forget to tighten the battery cable tight enough, everything shuts off for a sec then turns back on, check you battery cable just to be safe

 

k, thanks for all the info.

 

I strongly feel that the problem is related to the carb and the choke , that is where I would focus my attention . In the HAYNES manual#79019 it has step by step on how to check and adjust the choke. I would type it in but It would take forever. Wheres KED on this one ? He's good on this stuff.
Make sure your linkage moves freely ,it may be hanging up . spray somr carb cleaner on it. Thats the best advice I can give right now.

 

I agree with, I Cant Drive 55, sounds like a choke problem. Like its happening as the engine warms up & the choke is letting off.
I would replace all the vacuum lines that you can just on the age factor - pretty easy/ not expensive. These engines have a nasty habbit of sucking oil up thru the PVC valve into the air cleaner, when they get older - if you see oil in there - check PVC, change air filter offen. Every agrees the E2SE is a crappy carburetor, there just isn't any easy swap. ~ Spray Carburetor Cleaner is your Friend.~

 

I too would say fuel system related; it sounds like how the engine cuts out for a second when you take a sharp turn with only a little gas in the tank...it keeps running, but you don't go anywhere for a second, then the fuel finally gets back to the pump and you start going again. I don't know much about carbs, but I would say something related to that.

 

About a year or so, i got into a minor accident. I ended up cutting one of the vacuum lines, and the engine would stall, or not run right when I started the car. {It's fuel injected though, so I'm not sure how similar it could be. Hopefully everything works out okay for you.
Craig C.

 

Has your car ever been in a front end accident?
How old is this carb set up (milage)?
Ever have the carb rebuilt?
Ever replace vacuum lines?
That hose doesn't do much beside continue a pollution exhaust signal into the carb.
Choke?
There are two choke pots on the carb you have.
Both expensive to replace.
Choke is electric, not vacuum signaled.
Fuel filter is the WORST THING TO REPLACE.
NOT A SIMPLE JOB AT ALL.
Strongly suggest you do not attempt fuel filter change unless you have all the line wrenches in metric sizes even up to, I believe, 19mm.
Serioulsy it's a bear to do that filter, even when ya cut the fuel line & remove the carb off car.

My knowledge comes from the same carb'd engine in my S-10 Blazer (minus computer).
Keep your solutions simple, that is the cause of stalling.
Strongly suggest you just start replacing hoses.
One at a time.
You'll be surprised what you discover on that trail.....
On my swap below...
I'm at point where I need to reconnect all the hard rubber lines for pollution stuff on intake & things (smog check in Jan 2003).
I haven't touched those vacuum hoses since 1989.
They are totally shot, fall apart brittle, cracked open, weak and collaspe upon engine vacuum.
I was surprised my old motor even ran!

Follow the hoses that's easiest to start with.

 

Could it be a faulty computer??? Where in southern cali u live if u dont mind me askin.

Karl i came soo close to buying another car today 79 tran am 403 olds t tops good paint 800 bucks i wish i had the money if i did i would have 3 f bodys one day ill have my dream car im gonna send those papers out tommorw.

 

With my 84 if I run any fuel lower than 89 octane it "disels" whenever I shut it off.
It could be the choke like was already suggested. Check all of those levers that is on the side of the carb and see if anything maybe preventing there movement.
You guys can cut on us carb guys but we get the last laugh if a fuel pump ever needs changed

 

What about a bad fuel pump or just a bad wire somewere?

 

i went to fix the fuel filter (knowing of course that is was going to be difficult, just thought i'd give it a shot) and the fuel hose was a pain in the a** to loosen....so i'm just gonna have someone change the fuel filter for me.
i did change the preheater hose (the old one kept coming off it was so loose) and i checked all the electrical wires and they looked ok. i also checked for leaks and couldn't find any.

KED-
- i'm sure that the front has been in an accident, but it wasn't bad enough to hurt the engine or anything like that.
- the mileage is about....98,000 miles.
- dunno about the carb being rebuilt, but knowing that old carbs require alot of work, i'm sure it's had at least some work on it, but not major
- and i am replacing hoses ,good idea

i'm gonna take the car somewhere to have it doublechecked, proly on wednesday...the only day i seem to have time, sadly.

FIRST RS- if i told you the city i lived in i'd have to kill you

thanks for all the help.

 

along w/the others,I believe a choke adjustment. Carbs aren't that bad. except for maybe Holleys'. I've rebuilt aplethera of quadrajets in my day, but w/the electronic carb, you must pay attention as to what you service w/the rebuild kit. If you have never done a carb rebuild, I do not suggest doing it by your lonesome. find someone well versed on the "old school" ways, and also familiar w/the electronic carbs. watch, learn, take notes.

 

Reason why I mentioned front end accident
My Firebird was in a front end accident before my ownership.
Guess what?
My CAR WOULDN'T SHUT OFF WHEN YA USED THE KEY
BUT THE ELECTRICS WOULD (like fan, radio, etc!).
Turned out at front juntion wire ground block, wires stripped back from coating, crossing ever so often & causing that problem.

Carb.

DON'T SWAP IT FOR ANY OTHER CARB.

These engines & carbs are unique & specific.
Really weird on that point, but true (I know from since 89 S-10 Blazer ownership usage).
Trace the vacuum hoses first as it is cheap & easy, not fun, but....
For broken parts, hit the yards for those vacuum hose pieces.
MAKE SURE you turn those hoses over & look at bottom side.Check the brake vacuum hose for cracks too.
Try replacing that hose in your search for the problem, too. I had a bad engine to brake vacuum pump hose once.....

Next is wiring (check again while doing hoses) & carb rebuild.

PS, it's not the fuel filter, or else it's be like that all the time. And if & when ya rebuild carb, it's included in rebuild.
Good going not doing filter work.
You'd have to have it towed to be finished, as you'd strand yourself.
Yeah I know a few mechaincs.
Santa Monica & Pasadena (El Monte) area.
Help ya better?

Get me a shout about the Trans Am.
Local visit?
I know of a 1977 Corvette for sale, too, in pieces but...... Guy wants $2K plus.....

 

KID85 is right if there were trash in the fuel filter it would be doing it all the time - and that fuel filter is a Bear if you don't have the right tools - you can "round off" the fitting on the fuel line & if you aren't very careful you can cause a fuel leak when you put it back together AND Set your car on fire! So if you have it done, use a pro, not yer "Uncle Joe" or one of your many boy friends.
I wouldn't worry about the 2 choke pots - they just pull off the choke when it first starts up & is cold.
If you pull off the Air cleaner you can see the choke - its the little flapper on the front barrel, car cold - it should be closed. crank it up - it should open just a little. As the car warms up (5 to 10min)it should open up all the way.

If you don't have the Haynes manual you ought to get one - only $11 - $16 bucks at the auto parts store.

 

just put a inline fuel filter but i guess you would still have tot ake the old filter out.

 

Fast RS, no you don't have to take out the filter in the carb to splice in a filter in the fuel line - The one you install will catch the crud before it gets to the one in the carb - its a good idea & easy to do. Just find the hose that feeds fuel to the fuel pump(not the smaller return line) Snip it and add yer generic inline filter/ w2small hose clamps. Will catch the trash before it gets to D' fuel pump and that PITA carb filter, & the restriction is negligible.

 

I was saying take out the old one from the carb and just put a inline fuel filter on insted.