Ok I just took my car out for it's trial run after putting the K&N on. I have a couple questions. First, my car now acts kinda weird. Whenever I slow down alot, and either stop or almost stop, the engine kinda surges. You can hear a little surge and then it drops down to less than normal, than idles normal for a second or two, then revs high and drops low again, then normal. Is this because I haven't connected the IAT sensor yet? If so, how do I connect it? Secondly, the engine now makes a noise like "tek-a-tek-a-tek-a". It sounds like it's coming from the throttle body or near it, and it's really really fast. Any idea what this is? Never noticed it before tonight. Maybe the flaps in the throttle body are acting screwy cause the IAT sensor isn't working now, I dunno. Any help would be appreciated.

 

did you look for vacuum leaks. The problem you're having sounds like you have a small leak somewhere.

 

nope i haven't checked that..don't even know where the vacuum line is..where is it and can i just tape up leaks?

maybe it is the vacuum line, but until i put on the new filter i had no idleing problems and i never noticed the sound coming from (or near) the throttle body

 

check any and all of the vacuum lines. If you took the intake tube or something off, you might have knocked off a line or broken one of the plastic hoses or something.

 

I kept the stock rubber flex tube on the throttle body cause I didn't want to mess with the hoses connecting to it. All I did was remove the air box and the plastic tube going to it, and attatched metal tubing to the end of the stock rubber flex tube, angling it down at the ground w/ a filter on the end.

 

I think I know the answer to this question, but do you have a MAF or MAP system. I think you have a MAP on that year car, but just in case you don't, did you check the MAF sensor? If you knocked the wire loose or totally removed it, you might be getting weird readings. We'll figure this thing out eventually, I did mine, and it was a pain in the a$$

 

I have SD...90-92 V-6's have them. The SD connects to the throttle body though, right? I didn't mess with that at all so I don't think it could have gotten messed up. Where the SD connects to the TB, does it look like a big mass of wires goin into a harness and clipping to the TB? that's what i have

 

The SD system used a MAP sensor that had a Vacuum line comming off the manifold...i think. So you don't have to worry about MAF problems. Do a total check of all your lines and make sure you don't have a bad one. At least this will give you a starting point. If this doesn't reveal any problems, put the old intake system back on and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then there is something wrong with the intake that you built.

 

Your SD sensor is at the very back of the tranny case on the drivers side. I need to replace mine so I've already scooped it all out. My question is this, from what you said, do you actually have two filters on the car now? You put the K&N in and another at the end of a metal tube that runs from the air box towards the ground? If you do have two filters then its having trouble getting air at idol.

Some suggestions after checking for vacuum leaks would be to fix your IAT, clean out your TB, and go from there. FI cars have sensors and hoses all over the place, one goes bad and the car will run like ****. They are touchy about these things.

S.K.
'91 RS 3.1L 700R4

 

Put the original set up back on car & see what happens.
IF problem goes away, you'd better re-think Plan "A".

 

nope i just have one filter. i took the airbox out. i kept the rubber flex tubing coming out of the TB, ran pipe from the rubber tubeing straight down in front of the engine block and have the K&N sitting about 5 in. from the road, but that's the only filter.

 

Are you nuts? Do you realize how much crap is on the road coming up to your filter, then pu a K&N on there that you can see thru, I guess since your swaping in a different motor it's ok to trash this motor but jeee, Also thing of how much hot air is coming off the back of the radiator???

Not having this hooked up or not having it in the air stream makes the computer use a default value and YOU may not be getting into closed loop.

I think you need to put the airbox back in and if you still want to use that see thru K&N, put it inside the air box.

 

yes it's 5-6 inches from the ground, but it's protected by the front air dam (i think it's called). like when you look under the car from the front, there's that big rectangle "wall" thing that hangs down about 3 inches lower than the rest of the front. i think it protects the engine from getting sprayed with rock and stuff. anyway, the filter is safely behind that. you can't see the filter when you look under the car, no matter which way you look from. i've driven around w/ it for 2 days, and just checked it, and it looks exactly the same as when i put it in. no dust, the screen isn't bent at all from rocks or anything...i think it's fine...

what exactly is the purpose of the IAT sensor? you said the computer uses the default value if the sensor isn't picking up info, but the default value for what? i dont know what the IAT is for, something for air/fuel mixture i think. will the car run better if it's hooked up to the intake tubing and is reading the greater air flow?

here's a pic of the setup (you can actually see the IAT sensor at the very bottom of the pic...it's the bluish plug):

 

Yes the IAT tells the computer the temp. of the air. Colder the temp the computer would adjust adding more fuel etc.

Sad how you guys butch up your cars with home depot parts gaining nothing. Great looking car and you put that junk on there.

 

that metal tubing u use for intake ...its soo close
to the radiator...it wont make any good...

whenever the fan swithces on it is gonna get very hot...

have u ever checked your IAT...it must be running
way hotter than what it was...

 

yeah, just drill a hole in the side of the metal tube and poke that bad boy right through there. I've heard that the computer also uses the IAC to tell if the EGR system is funtioning properly. Something to do with the temp of the are just behind the TB and the air actually comming in past the filter. Don't know how much of that is true, but it might be. Shove the IAC in there and see if the problem goes away, if it doesn't put your old intake back on and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then rethink your plan. Talk to KED85 about possibly getting a hold of the TPi style intake he's selling. It's a true CAI. It takes air from in front of the radiator before it gets heated up and sent into the engine bay. Camaros that had them had 5+ more HP than their firebird counterparts just because of the intake that they got. Camaro's got the TPI intake like the one KED has, and I think the Firebids got one similar to the 3.1 stock setup.

 

huh, that true CAI sounds pretty good...i'm installin a new engine and tranny soon though, so i think i'll stick w/ what i got for the time being...and as far as the pipe getting hot air....after an hour of driving the pipe was only warm, it didn't get very hot. and i can feel an increase in throttle response. even if the pipe is getting warm and warming the air up some, the filter is bringing in cold air from under the car and it goes through the tubing quick enough that it can't warm up very much.

 

I don't know how the intake on the engine that you are gonna swap in looks, but chances are that you can make the TPI intake work for it. If you want to see what it looks like, check out my CarDomain site. I have it one my car. I'll have more pics up on it tonight, so check it out again to night after about 6:30PST. If you can get it to work for the vette engine, you'll pat yourself on the back for years to come for picking up the intake.

 

one more thing i forgot to mention here...

with that kinda intake if u drive in rain...where
there is a lot of stagnant water on the road..

im pretty sure that k&n is gonna get wet ...

 

i don't think it will...the front air dam (or whatever the hell it's called....the rectangular "wall" that hangs down lower than the rest of the car) will block the water i think. the filter's not near the wheels, so no water will get kicked up on it, and the "wall" should block any water/rocks/etc. that happen to bounce up anyway

 

I just went onto ebay to see if I could get a look at the intake on a 1994 Corvette. That's the engine you're putting in right? The intake looks almost exactly the same as the TPI intake I have, so you should think about getting it anyway, you'll be able to use it on the new motor. Hope this gives you some ideas dude...

 

yeah i'm gettin a '94...i'll be lookin for your CAI pics on your site later 2night

 

The only problem I see with going to the true CAI on the Camaros as opposed to the Firebirds, is the fact that the Firebirds don't have the cutouts in the nose piece where it's supposed to drop down and catch cold air. Also there are no inlets on the front bumper of the birds. So I don't think it would work. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

I think it's a thing with hood clearence on the birds, not sure. Since the birds have more of a pointy nose than the camaros, i think the hood actually comes closer to the radiator and doesn't provide enough room for the housing to go up and over it. People say that the housing going over the radiator gets the air nice and hot, but i can touch mine after driving it form Los Angeles to San Diego and it's barely luke warm, so I don't really think it's a problem, just a thoery that people use to justify making their own. I think it's one of the best stock systems GM has created in a long time.

 

What are you smoking?

 

BS huh? tons of people on these boards will say they felt a difference after putting on a CAI setup. maybe get one and see for yourself, instead of being a jacka$$

 

Give a shout.
Complete intact restored

 

all right, my pics are up now. you can go check them out. sorry for the latness, I got home from work later than explected.

 

how does the air hit the filters...does it just come in thru the grill? how much was that setup anyway, just for future reference w/ a different engine...

you have an '88, i didnt know they made 88's that weren't carbed....oh well learn something new every day

 

yup, 1988 2.8L MPFI engine. The TPI setup came with the car, I just list it as a mod because that's how most people look atit. It's nice. Talk to KED, I don't know how much he's selling his for, but I'm sure it's not much.

 

Send me an email with an offer.
I do have a price in mind yet it ain't the $435 that Classic Industries would sell theirs for (the same thing).
I'm out in LA & gotta handle & ship it.
Let me know & I'll start scouting for packaging for it.
I have all the bubble wrap I need, no box that flat & wide yet!
Hoping to sell it to one that will enjoy & utilize it well.
NOT FOR FIREBIRDS
I KNOW I TRIED!
Intact, complete, original, restored not butchered.
Those filters are quite good, still.

 

cutting the bottom out of teh intake setup that
KEd showed increases some high rpm response


I have the same setup ...i dropped in k&ns and
cut the bottoms out....i felt a difference...that
was one of my first (and free) mods

 

OMFG!!! $345 bucks for that intake. Man am i glad it came with my car.

 

I obtained that cost from a precious post.
I haven't explored the cost from Classic Industries.
I know what I'm asking for mine.
I have been able to locate shipping boxes for those interested. Toss me a price by email, it's for sale.
Restored, intact, original, functional, complete.
For Camaro applications only.
Designed by GM Engineers, ya can't get better.
WRECKING YARD RADIATOR! Pay about $30. I know as I shop there.
The "fan" idea has been around since a 1956 Hot Rod ad I have. Your idea is the first time discussed since then. That says something. IF this road speed fan idea was sufficent, why do they have turbines on Jets? Because it's the effective way to accomplish increased air into an engine to obtain more power on demand.
Imagine if the radiator water entered the engine thru your air intake set up. Not good.

 

well it rained today for the first time since i put the new filter on. i was out driving around for about 20, and when in got back i reached down to feel the filter. it was completely dry, couldn't find a single wet spot. oh, and the tubing i used was heating tubing, so i guess it resists heat really well, because after an hour of driving in hot weather yesterday, the piping was only a little bit warm. it was almost normal temp, just a tad above it. so i'm real happy w/ my setup, i think it's workin great...

 

When I first installed my SLP CAI on my car, I left IAT disconnected. And it did exactly as what Ryan_Alswede said. My car loaded itself with gas and bogged it down. Reconnect the IAT, mount it right after the filter in your tube and you should be good to go.

 

On your intake do what i did get a 3 inch rubber cuppling and 3 inch PVC pipe paint it any color you want drill a hole for the IAT put it in hook the filter to the end and stick it in your wheel well. looks nice and clean.

 

i had thought about it, but that rubber pvc is damn heavy. i went with the aluminum mainly cause of it's weight and cause it could twist. i'm not trying to win any awards with my engine bay, and i don't really mind how it looks because it'll have a new engine in there this summer anyway

 

I have the exact same problem. But there are a couple of more symptoms. Whenever it revs real low i look at my battery gauge and it drops along with it. I checked all the vacuum hoses and replaced a couple that were broken off and had leeks. I didnt have the problem when the leeks were there though. the things that i have changed is the single intake that is located at the corner to the dual intake that comes to the front. if you have any more suggestions pleese post.


p.s. I have a 91 camaro with a 3.1L mpfi.

 

This is exactly what my car does. When I start my car I can usually tell when it's going to do the idling thing. It's only every once in a while and I got good at stopping with my right foot on the brake and gas so it doesn't die! You guys know what I'm talking about! Oh, and welcome to the boards FireHwk!

 

thanks CamaroRS385hp

I also feel that there some power missing from my car. I have the dual intake and flowmasters and i feel that my car should be a little faster then it is right now. Also i want to know what to start on next for a higher performance car. Im looking into a 700r4 trans and was wondering if anyone had a used one or where i can buy one at a reasonable price.

 

if you have an auto as it is now, I think they came with the V6 version of the 700r4 already. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I have a stick shift, so don't care much about the auto trans...

Back to the original question, here's thing that cause weird idle:
1) Vacuum Leak - check ALL the lines, you'll be surprised at what a small leak will do.
2) Crusty TB - get some TB cleaner from the parts store, and follow the directions. Make sure you get the Throttle Plate AND the IAC Passageway. Take out the IAC, hold it with the pintle pointing down and spray that bad boy too.
3) Bad ignition system - cheack cap, coil, rotor, plugs and wires. You'll be amazed at what a difference just a new set of wires will do, let alone all new stuff.
4) Bad O2 sensor - if your O2 reading is wrong, your car will run bad, simple as that.
5) Bad IAT sensor - If the car thinks the air entering the engine is a certain temp, it calculates A/F mixture based on that reading. If the sensor is bad, it'll calculate the wrong mixture and make your car run crappy. Might throw a code if it's bad.
6) BAD MAF/MAP sensor - If the engine thinks a certain amount of air is coming in, but the reading is wrong, again with the crappy idle. Almost always throws a code for this one. There could be exceptions though.
7) Bad/loose TPS - If this is loose, it'll rattle around and give the computer a bad Throttle Position reading, so the engine will screw up the A/F mixture again. If it's dead, you'll almost certainly have a code for this one. Exceptions happen though.
8) Worn timing chain - Almost everyone on here can attest to this one. if the timing chain is loose, it won't keep the distributor spinning in perfect synch with the crank and mess up the timing, giving you a bad idle.
9) Timing set wrong - Check the timing, it should be at 10* BTDC, this is the stock, smog legal setting. I think the general concenus on this is to bump it up a couple degrees to about 12*, it runs smoother and you get a little beter power out of it.
10) Distributor needs a rebuild - I think RedRaif had to do this and then reset the endplay because it was a little too wobbly, making the soark soot off at different intervals, not at the proper timing. Gives lack of power, surging, or bad idle.

I think that's most of it. I'm sure I forgot something, and if something is wrong, I would appreciate it if you correct me so that I don't screw it up again. Hope this helps.

DO THE TomP TUNE UP. SEARCH FOR IT IN THE V6 FORUM. IT HELPS!!!!