Well it sounds like i may need to rebuild the motor. I and my wife went out and moved it and you hit the gas and the most horrid knock comes out( sounds like rod knock to me) but i maybe mistaken.

You hit the gas so its revving at a decent speed and thats when the knock comes. has soon has you let off the gas it goes away

 

Sounds like rod knock. Is it a 2.8? If so, you might as well toss a 3.1 rotating assembly in there.... 3.1 pistons, and 3.1 crank, with your 2.8 rods.

 

i was goin to ask what i should do if i do have to replace the motor. if i should go with another 2.8 or something diffrent?

if i did go with the 3.1 rotating assembly wouldnt that screw with the engine comp??

im new to this fuel injected thing

 

No, it wouldn't... your other (and probably better) option is to find a used, low mileage 3.4 engine, and drop it in. You won't need to computer or anything, just the block and rotating assembly. Throw your top end on, with the 3.4 injectors, and away you go.

 

will the tranny i got now(5 speed manual) bolt to the 3.4l block since whats in it now is a 2.8l 60 degree??

 

Yes - but replace your clutch!

 

the clutch in it has already been replace, I think?

Whats a good pedal presure foir a clutch? right now if you you let out the clutch between 1/4 to 1/2 your rollin.

 

That's ok... I'd check it anyway, while the engine is off!

 

good point

What else could it be beside rod knock and what should i check for??

 

You're looking at a full engine teardown. If it were me, I'd go ahead and rebuilt the whole thing, so when I drop it in, it's brand new. Heads, cam, rockers, the whole shee-bang!

 

What kind of cost am i lookin at if i do that??

 

have you checked the ignition timing? if it is advanced too much, it will spark knock alot. 10* is the stock setting but on a stock motor, you can easily run 12* or 14*.

 

thats got me thinkin cuz when i start it it knocks a bit and if i hit the gas to fast or hard it will back fire a little

EDIT

Oh and it strugles to stay runnin at idle also.

 

Timing's a part of the major tuneup...

 

yea i read that and plan to do all of it

you think that it could just be timming knock since it has a ruff idle and back fires??

Also how do i adjust the timming?

BTW i bought a manual but it wont be here for a few days

 

Well now, we need to determine if you have rod knock, or a backfire. The two don't sound anything alike... tell you what, replace the timing chain (will need to be done if you rebuild it anyway) and redo the ignition system, as well as TomP's major tune up. See if that fixes your problem. Or better, just have a real mechanic listen to it, and see if he can tell you if its rod knock, or not.

 

at start up its stuggles to stay running and if i hit the gas hard or to fast it back fires a bit, along with the knock. but the knock seems to get less when its been runnin a bit. about 3 minutes or so

EDIT:

it idles normal for a few seconds and then the RPMs drop and it sounds like it wants to die but then like catchs it self and revvs up again, its got 127,XXX on it and you can hear like pop when it starts to rev up again but only when i hit the gas does the knock come in

 

That does sound like an ignition problem... well, here's something you can do for free, without a manual- pull out the spark plugs and check 'em out. Over-advanced timing causes detonation that can actually blow a spark plug to pieces!

I had that happen to me. The entire middle was missing. There was just a hole where the center electrode had been. Timing was so far advanced, it was off the scale! Noticed right after I changed my fuel pump- the first pump. Put the car back together and it wouldn't start- man, was I pissed. I thought I replaced the pump for nothing. Did some more checking; hey, what the Hell happened to the #1 plug?? Replaced it, did more checking, and found the timing was way off. When I ran a compression test years later, every cylinder was between 140-160 PSI except for the cylinder whose plug blew apart. (The #1 cylinder.) It came in at 125 PSI.

It could also be a dying fuel pump or a leaking injector. Clogged fuel filters over-work a fuel pump; if the filter hasn't been changed in years, it could've killed the pump.

Which manual did you buy? You can find a timing gun for as little as $40... in fact, I think http://www.craftsman.com has one. You don't "need" any fancy features like dial-back or battery powered or etc; I'm still using the timing light my dad bought (Sunpro) over 25 years ago.

 

cool ill check all that today and see what i find, thanx

I bought the 82-92 camaro haynes manual

 

Cool, that's the one I like. If you get into more advanced stuff, check out the GM service manual from http://www.helminc.com . Sometimes you can find them on eBay.com for cheaper, too, but they might be beat up. I use the Haynes more for regular stuff, like dropping the fuel tank or changing the rear axle or working with the front suspension, but the Helms book for diagnosis or fuel injection related stuff.

 

Can't beat a true GM service manual. I've got one for '78 Pontiacs, and it tells you things you'd never believe!

 

I went and pulled the drivers side first plug in the front of the motor, those V6s dont leave much room to work, but any way, when i got the plug out it was in one piece but was black and just above the threads was all oily. also the plug wire and the metal sleeve that protects the end of the plug wire had some oil on it and looked burnt alittle.

 

Just for your own reference, that is the #2 cylinder. #1 is the front passanger side.

Looks like you're due for TomP's Patented TuneUp in a Post!

 

Thanx i was wonderin what # that was.

lol yea i read that thing and am goin to do all of it
Hopefully that will solve the probelms and if it dont it was a learning experience