What do you guys feels about performance chips? I found one for $200 and it said it would add about 20hp, not bad for $200. Do think its too good to be true?

 

A manufacturer name would probably help.

 

I think most people here will agree with me on this one. If you spend $200 for an aftermarket chip, you are probably wasting your money. Not trying to knock you down or anything here, so don't get me wrong. For the same price you can get in to burning your own chips for your car, and you can tailor it to exactly how you want it, instead of mass produced generalized PROMs. I just think you could and probably would be happier (and better off) if you got into making your own.

 

AND a chip will NEVER make 20 horsepower for us... We only make 140 hp to begin with. 20 horsepower is a monumental increase...140-160 hp? Look at a 3.4 They make 160 hp. And they've got added displacement, better design, and all. As QTA mentioned also, performance chips are tuned 'in general'....that is, they're not custom tuned to each car. They're tuned on the principals of "well, most cars like extra timing...so..there...and most cars like to run a tad richer at so and so rpms, so..there we go..." No custom work or insight is done into our cars, all the chips are programmed generically...so you won't see the most power available out of one of these chips. I wouldn't expect for any more than 5 hp on a stock or near-stock car. Not to mention these chips are designed to improve STOCK motors...if your car has extra modifications which require different operating conditions than stock, the chip will be further out of calibration for your setup!

All in all...there are better things to spend the $200 on. Namely, exhaust, intake, ignition, underdrive pulleys....

 

US$ 200???, HA!

With $ 200 I bought my own Notebook (from e-bay) + PROMs + Cable materials.

Today, with this (+ tons of time), I can scann my car and reprog, reprog, reprog and reprog my own chip 1, 2, 3, 4,... etc. times (and my children plays with the Laptop).

 

Nixon1, what should I do with my intake? Now I just have the dual inlet intake with K&N filters.

 

Just use common sense to come up with ways to open up the intake and increase the air flow.

 

Yeah, It's a BIG waste of money to buy a chip. Even if you
had a V8 with TPI, still a big waste!

I wasted $200 for one of those ( Hyperjunk!) chips. I
bought it like 4 years ago, so I didn't know about these
chips at that time. Didn't have a computer to look up
about them either at the time!

To make my point, your better off bumping your timing
from 10*BTDC to 14* BTDC and switch your gas from
reg. to super ( premium) unleaded gas. You will get
better results, and will cost you a lot less to do that,
even if you pay someone to do it!

Any one want a Hypertech street runner chip for 3.1L
Camaro???? I'll sell it cheap!!!!

:lala:

 

big..if you have that setup, you're pretty good to go to begin with. Have you removed the baffles on the bottom that are to keep water and such out? If you have...I wouldn't mess with it! Many people on the boards have CONVERTED over to that setup..for good reason.

 

I'm still wondering with Dirty Rob- who makes the chip? It's not Hypertech or ADS, is it?

 

The only chip and we have tired Hypertech, Jet and Fastchip that was fair was the fast chip stage 2 from fastchip.com.... Do an exhaust first, do some porting first, do a shift kit first...

 

I have a fastchip Stage 2 IT made a little difference to my car i only paid 40 bucks for mine tho. The biggest power increase was pulys

 

See my buddy did not notice anything from pulley's...

First mod should be a dynomax cat back, then a B&M Shift kit

 

I noticed a incresse in power and better gas milage. He should start off witha nice tune up. Then when he does his exhaust he should also put in a high flow cat. Then a Cold Air Intake. Then MSD BOX and Coil A holley or MSD ignition module and he will be good to go.

 

Did you remove just the baffles that are screwed on, or did you cut out the whole plastic base and make it a big open square? Does this cause any problems in terms of water or larger particles getting on the filter?

 

The baffles are still on there.
What kinda pulleys should I get, and where from?
Ill try to put pictures on this post of my car with in a day or two.

 

I got mine from PAW but you can get them from jegs mine cost 50 bucks when you put htem on jsut use the crank pully not the alternator pully IT honestly makes a nicew difference and if jegs cant find them say to look up for a 2.8 blazer.

 

The alt pulley is debatable. Some say they've used it without trouble, others say they can't use it because it makes the alternator not output enough. I've heard more negative than positive about it though. If you've got a stock alt, then I'd do what FAST RS said and stay away from the alt pulley. Problem is, I'm not sure that they sell the pulleys separate...might be just a set.

 

YAh they only come as a set but its 50 bucks for the set so its not too expensive you can awalys sell the ALT pully on EBAY.

 

True....you can sell ANYTHING on ebay I'm sure.... Maybe I should shine up my old ignition coil, wirebrush my cap and rotor, degrease my old set of 9mm plugwires and sell them on eBay as a "deluxe rebuilt ignition set".

 

ok ok ok i have the MSD box, i have the holley ignition module, i have the tune up done(would love bigger then 7mm wires) have the hi flo cat, flowmaster muffler, NEW z28 Style's tip (YAY!) have a home depot cone air intake........

im wanting to do the
aluminum driveshaft
pulleys
chip
msd blaster II coil
shift kit ( i have a b&m in my room that i have heard bad things about, brand new in box)
and a rear end....

anybody got any ideas into which order i should do this?

 

Driveshaft? Wow...that's an uncommon mod. Here's how I do things. Simple and cheap to hard and expensive. In that spirit:
1-Blaster coil
2-Pulleys
3-Chip
4-Rear end
5-Shift kit
6-Driveshaft (I only put the driveshaft AFTER the shift kit because you'll see a nice performance out of the shift kit...doubt you'll see a lot out of the driveshaft)

As far as the B&M shift kit...I think you've heard bad things mostly about it not being comprehensive enough. B&M makes the cheaper shift kits...TransGo is about double the price, maybe more, but they include a lot more. Still though, I think the B&M one will work just fine, it's just that the TransGo works better. BUT, don't install the shift kit if your transmission hasn't been rebuilt recently. That's my warning. If the tranny is old and stock, a shift kit might just bring it to its demise.

Ask TomP about the shift kit...I believe he's got the B&M, along with a few others whose names escape me...

Note: Chip moves down on that list depending on your priorities. If you're looking for only performance, then rear end comes before chip. But if you want something easy to do, that will add a wee little bit of power and won't affect your mileage, than the chip first.

But, before all that expensive stuff, get some custom exhaust piping done man! The Flowmaster muffler and high flow cat is helping you out, but if you're running the stock piping (which I assume you are since a catback or custom piping isn't mentioned in the signature), you're losing power.. The stock is only 2.25 in, and crimp bent. You want 2.5", mandrel bent.

 

Correction: After reading another post on here, I might just be wrong about the pros of running an aluminum driveshaft. Maybe it makes a bigger difference than I thought!

 

Well, yeah, there is a reason why aluminum driveshafts
are put in LS1 Camaros/Firebirds! To withstand over
300HP at the rear wheels. Also, the light weight
driveshaft actually turns faster than our stock steel
ones! Result, more power to the rear wheels!

STAY AWAY from the B and M shift kits!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PLEASE READ!!!!.............

I bought one off Jegs.com. Then I ask a master tech at my
workplace if these are good to install in my car. He said
NO! The first reason is because since it is a V6, there's
not enough power to "chirp" the gears. It's not good
to have the trans. making all the "banging" on it's own.

Secondly, B and M "cheapo" shift kits only increase
pressure in the trans. NOT good either!!!!

Third, they just plain suck to begin with, the kit does
not include enough parts to make a quality shift kit!


I'm sure that many people here will say, "what am I
talking about?" My B and M shift kit is fine in my V6 Camaro?"
Well, it won't be, cause you just made your trans. early
death!!!

Believe me. This info coming from a master tech, with
plently of trans. training and experiance. 20 years!

I would listen to him!

Here's what you should go with, as far as shift kits.....

Go with the Transgo Shift kit. That's what he recommends,
that's also what TomP recommends!

Spend the $130 , you get what you pay for!

The labor will be just as much , if not more, because of
what's involved, removing trans. pan, gasket, valve body,
then doing the installing procedures, reinstalling the
parts, then testing to see how it shifts, if it shifts not
right, then everything has to come back out to readjust
it, than back in again....etc.!!

So, somewhere around $300- $400 total parts and labor.

 

krazycracka55,

Here's what I would do in this order:

1.)MSD Blaster coil ( nice improvement to ignition!)
Can notice an increase in power , and will help
burn the fuel much better!) Cheap money , $50
on the high side!

2.)Rear end ( yes! DO this BEFORE anything else!)
( Look for the next in order after this story!).......

You will notice a BIG improvement in power and
you now have your POSI back~!
You can improve your 1/4 mile times up to .5 tenths!
No either!

I would recommend a good COMPLETE rear set ( like
the ones sold on http://www.thunderracing.com.)
I would recommend the 3.73 gear ratio set for
around $500, then go to SLP performance for the
Zextel torsion limited slip set , around $100 ( MUST
have 28 spline axles! Which it think you do.)

Total is around $600. Cheap money compared
to buying a whole entire USED rear end. Because
even though a complete rear end is about the same
money, or less, You never know how long the posi
setup or the bearings, or anything, will last in there!

Ask TomP! He'll tell you!

I'd go with just rebuilding your existing rear end.
This setup may hold up to 300+++HP !!!!

Plus that performance stud gridle looks cool!!!!!


3.) Pullies
Yes, they are a nice power add on, about 5-10 hp
increase! Cheap money also ( like $50).
I would only recommend the crank pulley! Unless
your using an aftermarket performance alternater
with high output, DON'T get one! You can reduce
the output of the alternater, mostly at idle. NOT
good, especially if you have a BIG stereo system,
like amps, subs, etc.

P.S. Sorry about all this "spam" crap! I just have a lot
of info about this stuff.
I just hate to see someone waste their time and money
on certain things! If you want more info, please e mail
or PM me! Nixon1 knows me, we had talked a lot before!

I'm always willing to help......

 

yeah i had bought a coil b4, but oredered the wrong one, and when i had the hood popped and the old coil out looking at the two i was just like yea, this just wont do

thankx for the advice though, i see what i can do...

anyone happen to have part #'s??

 

Summit racing coils:

MSD Blaster GM coil: MSD-8226
Hypertech coil: HYP-4055

Or if you're more of an Accel man: ACC-140011

Camaro nut..been a while man! You got AIM? My name is CallMeMrNixon... Hard to guess eh? Send me an IM sometime... And...isn't 5-10 hp a bit optimistic for only pulleys? I can see 5 hp....but 10? Ehhh......

 

Nixon1,

Yeah, I know! I'll talk to yeah soon! I DO have AIM!
I'll AIM yeah soon!

I think it's a little high for a pulley too ( 10 hp!).
I think it's more like 5 hp for just the crank, but
you can get a 3 pulley system, crank, alt, and
water pump, that would be more like 10hp.

Although, I haven't seen a 3 pulley set on the
internet anywhere, just at my local performance
shop, you can order a 3 piece set through them.
I forgot the brand name.

Anyways, I'm not going to add anymore mods
to my V6 anymore. I'm going to save up for a
ram jet 350! 'Cause the MOST your going to
get out of these V6s with no custom turbo or
superchager, or nitrous, is like 200hp, and
that's on the high side!

That's also spending like $1500 to have it
rebuilt with double roller timing chain, roller
rockers, roller cam, ported/polished intakes,
heads, and a complete engine rebuild kit.

And, for the same price as the 350 motor,
when you have the engine competely rebuilt
with performance parts, plus the custom built
headers, Y pipe, high flow cat, exhaust, custom
chip, then maybe through in 75 Hp shot of nitrous,
with a custom superchager, it's over 300 hp!
BUT, that's like over $6,000!!! NOT including labor!

So, I'm going to through in a complete brand
new 350 ram jet motor with rebuilt V8 700R4
trans. with transgo shift kit in the car. It's
going to be a nice custom hot rod, with ALL
stock "RS" package on the outside! No cowl
induction hood or big wing in the back, nothing!

Ok, that's enough "off topic" stuff!!!
I'll shut up now!

 

Oooh man, I LOVE RS sleepers. My sister's friend's boyfriend has a red Camaro...all the RS badges were pulled off but you can tell it used to be an RS. I think it's got a carbed 355 in it now.

 

Yeah, that's my goal! A total sleeper! People will think I have
a 305 TBI with some good flowing exhaust, but nope!!!:lala:

I was thinking back and forth about a carb setup, or a
nice "ram" fuel injection setup. I originally wanted a used
TPI 350 with some mods to it, but the most I'll get out
of that is like 280-300hp tops. That's on a USED motor
with nothing special about it! Then, I thought about a
carb set up on a new GM 350 crate motor. I know it's
cheaper, but EVERYONE is doing that.

I know TPI is limited to high, strong HP, so......

I thought either a nice aftermarket RAM fuel injection
set up ( $3,000!!! ) OR, buy a GM factory crate
motor with FI made for that motor already! It would
be the same price to buy a short block 350 , then
buy the $2,500-$3,000 FI.

It's actually EASIER to swap this in than to try to
make the TPI 350 work with emissions. The fuel
injection in our cars is already set up perfectly
for the ram jet, takes the same amount of PSI
to run, just like our MPFI and TPI motors. And the
fuel lines (supply and feed) are already there!

Only problems, some custom work to it, of course,
like new tach ( for V8), and some other stuff I forgot!


Oh yeah, my suspension and front end is already made
for street/strip racing!!! Total spent so far on that,
$3,300!!! But worth every penny! Also already
installed V8 springs too! Works well with V6!

 

Wow....that's a lot on suspension. Hey, can you recommend some good, fairly cheap shocks? Mine are TOAST! They SQUEAK when they encounter any kind of movement whatsoever....

 

Nixon1,

Absolutely! I use the KYB shocks and struts in my RS!

Here's where I bought them ( http://www.thetirerack.com)

Get the GR2 replacement front struts ( about $45 each)

Get the Gas-A-Just shocks for the rear ( about $29 each)

They have been on my Camaro since last Sept. with
no problems! Very nice, tight ride! Very responsive
over bumps! Can't go wrong with simple replacements!

Bye the way, the rear shocks can be a pain in the a ss!
the top mounts are the pain , the rear end mounts are
cake! Have to remove some carpeting for the top mounts,
but once you get to them , not so bad!

Front struts, a monkey can do those! :lala:

oh wait, you mean your Mustang, right? Don't know
on those, But KYB is still a good , cheap, and popular
replacement! Just check out that website!

Hey, I think we should start to PM or AIM so this thread
doesn't get locked!!!!

Sorry mods, if we are off topic, don't mean to be......

 

When I get the tranny done, I'll be looking into the shocks then. Or, when I get the tranny and brakes done that is. Maybe the MSD box. SOMEWHERE down the road, I'll look into them. So yeah, AIM me sometime man.