hey dudes does that slick50 realy work or im wasting my money and time? what kind of oil yall have in mind? 2.8 89 RS

 

Back when I got my car, I used to put it in with EVERY oil change. Yep, every oil change- sick, huh?

Well I stopped using it when I found out that it can actually clog a filter, and clog the internal oil passageways!

Best bet is to just always do a filter/oil change every 3000 miles, and don't use cheap filters, and NEVER use a Fram filter. If you stick with AC filters or Purolator, those are two good ones.

Also that thing where they drain a slick50 engine and run it without oil... it's a gimimick. Any engine will run without oil for a while- until it blows up! Interesting huh?

 

good lookin out 4 me dog. i was about 2 use that mug again. what do u use on ur 2.8 so i can try it?

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

IT has tefflon which clogs the fuel filter. DuraLube is deacent so is MMO I use Duralube about once a year when i do a tuneup.

 

i myself have a 3.1, but i have been using the K+N performance gold filters, with valvoline max life and it seemed to imporve just a little bit from what i recieved it in, also if your looking for an additive, that stuff from lucas worked for me in my 86 mustang 2.3 combined with the K+N filter, and that car kept up with most of the 5.0 class mustangs when i had it

 

Duralube is the only one that I have seen work. It has saved 3 cars for me when they should of blown up or had searious damage.

just 1

low mile classic car / 68 ford Galaxy 500
15-20 miles from home on the eway, I lost all my water and my fan belt. I never stopped and just kept driving home pissed off, didn't care if it blew. Got it home and everyone swore I had ruined the car. Once cooled off it ran like it always did, great.

I noticed the most improvements in that car also when I added a 2nd bottle. You can run up to 50% dura lube. I ran two quarts of it and 3 of oil. It ran good but with 2 quarts it ran super smooth. It purred like a kitten.

 

Years ago when Slick50 was only a mail order type product, It use to sell for aprox $52 per quart. It was a much more potent product and did what it claimed. It has now become too commercialised and the product weakened/reformulated and the price dropped dramatically.

The Slick50 of old- instructions: Vehicle motor must be at normal running temp! Add one quart of Slick50 and run vehicle for at least 30mins to allow fusion into heated metal.

New stuff- dump it in and go, Not the same anymore.

 

Gumby when you changed the oil after using 2 QTS of Dura Lube and 3 of oil did it still run the same? I might just consider trying that if you had results after you driand the oil with the 2 qts of duralube

 

To add to this topic, I have run FULL sythetic oil in all of my vehicles for years now. I have a Chev truck (350ci) that I have owned for just over 15years with over 400,000 on the bottomend (never pulled down- still original everything) and attribute its longevity to synthitic oil. I have also added the original Slick 50 to it years ago and also a machine lubricant call Polydyne that I can't find anymore.

I have actually done the "bearing load test" in person myself (like seen on tv commercials) with all the major players (Duralube, slick50, numerous oils, STP,etc) and can tell you first hand that nothing come close to Polydyne. Duralube was very good for an alternative choice but not even close to Polydyne.

Another note; You can not properly break in a new motor with synthitic oil, the rings will not seat properly. Best to run ruglar motor oil for apro 5-8,000miles until broken in- then run Full synthetics and additives.

 

Yep , its doesn't seam to go away after the first initial large dose. I ran 1 quart for a while in the car probably 3-4 oils changes with just one. but one day I was 1/2 a quart + low so I added the 2nd quart and was shocked on how it smoothed right out. as I dumped it in; the motor just smoothed out. And it did stay that way.

Two things I always liked about Duralube

When they first came out they had that 5 hr long infomercial and during the whole show had a glass bottom 3 1/2 hp aluminum lawn mower engine running with no oil. I know to well that them aluminum law mower engines seize real easy, just low on oil.

I also like the test they do where the lube actually flows to wards heat and not away like reg / syn oil or other snake oil products.

But I use it for the added protection that I know if I get into trouble not much will happen to the car. It does make the engine run smoother, so it has to add a hp or two but I just like knowing my internals are protected from heat failure.


I call it piece of mind in a bottle. There use to sell a whole oil change kit for $20, oil pan, rags, funnel, Duralube for the oil and gas.

I stick it in everything. Even my lawn mower. I buy it as bday and Christmas gifts for people. That way they never call me broke down on the side of the road.

not everyone carries it but Duralube has a whole line of products. Can't find it in stores here but they make a good 2 cycle oil that I hear about down south.

 

Though I have to say with any oil addtive it hard to pin point what it actualy does or helps. That is until you get your self in trouble and it proves its self. Duralube has done that for me. Proved it self worthy time n time again.