Is it easy to replace the pickup coil, pole piece, and the other part the third arrow is pointing to? I have a feeling the rust on there and the pickup coil is showing a little wear which I am assuming can make my car studder. Since this picture I have also replaced the ignition module as well with an Accel one. I figured it would be less expensive to rebuild than buy new.

 

It's easy. Drive out the roll pin (don't lose it!) in the distributor gear, then the gear comes off, and the shaft comes out from the top.

I wire wheeled my poles, and re-adjusted them - replace the pickup coil, and polish/grease the shaft with sandpaper + brake cleaner.

 

The third arrow (left to right) is the pickup coil, yes, definately replace that.

A tip for when putting the gear back on, the dimple on the gear goes in line with the rotor tip.

As for the module, if the the current one is a GM module you are better off reusing it. Just clean the old heat sink compound off and use new compound when re-mounting the GM module.

RBob.

 

Thanks guys, I have the GM part #s for the pieces I want to replace and GM still carries them which is cheaper than a whole new distributor. I never thought it was as easy and just driving out the pin in the gear. It's funny cause GM carries the majority of the parts for the distributor but not the distributor itself.

By the way where do you get the heat sink silicone? When I got my Accel module it came with it but is that something you can buy at the autoparts store? If it's just clear silicone then that is simple to get.

 

It's heatsink grease - I used some zinc based white heatsink grease the first time, and used some Arctic Silver the last time I rebuilt my distributor

 

Doward most the guys at the local Advance have no clue what a distributor is let alone the heat sink grease. Would I find it there? I was thinking of just leaving the module alone but I guess it would be good to put a new layer of grease down.

 

Josh, when you bought the new module in the box with it should have been a small ketchup packet like thing with the grease in it.

Otherwise you should find it in the aisle with the silicones and gasket goop type things. Or try a NAPA, they'll have it.

 

go to your local computer parts store and ask them for some arctic silver or any other heat sink compound, it may be easier to find it there (i'm a computer tech in real life) just wipe the old stuff off with a papertowel and apply the new (make sure there isn't any fibers before applying)

 

Thanks guys I am going to have to put my list together soon and see about rebuilding this thing once I get the time.

 

It looks better than the one I got off ebay, hehe.
Yea I would get a new pick up coil for sure, I rebuilt mine with a Holley ICU, a napa pick up coil and I shoud have got a MSD distributor cap for a later even fire 4.3L V6, I got a cheap one insted.
I got an accel cap and cleaned up the old one and plain to keep it.
I reused my drive gear and got SS roll pin from work, if your drive gear is worn you can get a kit from napa or auto zone for about $35.
I also picked up a MSD blaster SS coil from summit.
I have pictures of my rebuilt distributor on the car domain site in the sig.

 

I have an Accel cap and rotor right now and I am pretty satisfied with it. The plan is to replace as much as possible on the distributor within reason. I don't get why a tiny little gear on the distributor though is $35 and I think it was that much from GMpartsDirect. I just think a 172k mile distributor probably deserves a rebuild which from what everyone says easy to do. I have taken it out of the engine before just never disected the distributor itself.

 

Radio shack has the white heat sink grease, too.

 

Make sure the mainshaft spins freely in the housing. Occasionally, the bearings in the housing will seize or partially seize.

I've had a few where I couldn't even get the old mainshaft out so I had to replace the housing.

 

yep but i hate radio shack long story lets just say i had a friend who used to work there and he got screwed all around

 

Pull up from past or do search about my thread on distributor rebuild
Doward is right, so is CaliCamaro.
It is bloody simple to do this rebuild.
Use the "right tool" when driving out the pin. Damage the pin end as little as possible.
After the shaft is clean, definetly hand rotate the SANDED CLEAN distb. shaft lubricate in axle grease, thru the housing and move it up & down.
You'll know when that part of job is done.
Make sure the distb. base vent under modular is cleared out of any goop.
Clean the dirty rotor contacts as mentioned.
When spinning, check for clearence.
Whisker close is the tolerence you seek between the pole contacts.
I've used nearly every brand of modulars due to alternator problem. Point is, any and the CHEAPEST MODULAR is the best one. NO one brand made any difference in performance.
I use all Accel stuff, except modular & cap & rotor.
I found brass contact cap & rotor (which is Accel selling point) much less in Borg Warner brand.
Be sure to throw some grease on the distb. gear before you stick back in distb.
I made a stud and nut set up for tightening distb.
Suggestion of new "O" ring, film lubed in motor oil and use a Small Block Chevy distb. gasket between engine & distributor base. Zero leaks!
Follow up by new timing chain and you'll be amazed how much pep is still left in that engine!
The car runs cooler & milage is better & emissions are lower after this project. Engine longevity is increased, too.
Mucho gains for the effort!
PLUS WHEN YA SWAP IN THAT 3.4, you're distributor is already rebuilt!

 

Artic Silver is awsome i use that on all the computers i build. It displaces heat better then the normal white stuff. its about 7 bucks for a tube and it will last you a long long time.

 

Oh yeah, to make life easier, I usually punch the roll pin out just far enough so the mainshaft will come out. That way when you put it back together, the pin is already in and you just have to tap it.