i'm changing the gasket on my waterpump again to stop the leaking, do i need to to teflon tape or thread lock the bolts? or can i just leave them?

 

I heard of several pepole on here use blue RTV. Last time I did my timing chain I didn't use any and I have no leaks.

 

are you gonna torque them in, or use the "calibrated wrist"

 

Don't use teflon tape, the heat will melt it. You need to use RTV on the bolt threads before inserting and torquing them-This is manditory or it will develop a leak over time if not right away.

RTV the bolt threads with red dots, Blue dots don't need anything.

 

1st off, Its 3 bucks.
2nd, its "required" and your damn lucky. How do you know its not leaking internally into the oil through the threads? Ever think of or check on that one?

Edit:I just noticed this clown doesn't even have a 60*V6 yet he's giving advice on it- Its not like a V8 partner and you shouldn't be giving false information.

 

rtv it is, my biggest worry was not it leaking out, rather it leaking into the oil and giving me some severe problems before i got the 3.4 in

 

cheap insurance, just like the distributor gasket that's not required either

 

lol

 

Every service manual you look at will say its required. I am stating proper install procedure- people here want facts. and don't want to have to pull things back down 3 months later due to not using a quick $3 tube of RTV as proven factual proceedure not to leak.

What if someones does leak after you give this dry advice? What then, are you going to fix it for them for free?

You don't put it there when required, then you are taking a chance.

 

personally i like to stay from half assing anything on my car, it will always come back to bite you in the *** when you really don't need it

 

The text had to go.. but the attachment had to stay.

 

definatly gonna use some rtv sealant

 

i dont like to use RTV on threads..

i usually use a thread sealant of some sort... like this:

http://www.permatex.com/heavy_duty/D...&item_no=56521

 

ok this is probably the stupidest question i've ever posted , but how do i get at all the bolts to torque em? i need to pull of the pulley mount on the water pump don't I?

 

Kretos, There is no bots needed to mount the pump that are behind the pulley Se the picture I posted above.

 

theres a few down under it that need to be tightened, i believe it was a 10mm?


or am i totally wrong on that?

 

Your showing an '88 car in your sidenotes.Thats a serpentine belt car. There shouldn't be anything under the pulley. The picture I have above it an earlier timing cover for a v-belt normal rotation WP. The later years are reverse direction. I did run out and look real quick to verify and there is only one just to the left of the snout that is just barely under the pulley enough to render installing before the pulley goes on. Factory bolts are all torx heads on the serp years.

 

Having had this entire spiel started by a V8 guy running around the V6 thinking he knows everything, while OBLIVIOUS to the fact that some of the bolts on a 60 degree V6 which retain the water pump and timing cover are *open* to water jackets... that loosening of the water pump bolts can lead directly to engine failure because of the relationship between the water pump and front timing cover... it's just funny.

V8 guys: If you don't know the differences between a SBC and 60 degree V6, don't bother posting incorrect information here.

V6 guys: If the bolts loosen, kiss your motor goodbye. Use the RTV (or a suitable thread locker, etc)

This thread has required a tremenous amount of pruning. If the silliness starts again I'm gonna be rather upset.

 

hmm i have all 6 point bolts, no torx heads in sight, i'm begining to think this motors been rebuilt

 

kretos: Mine's a non-serpentine and I did have to take the WP pulley off to get at some of the bolts.

As far as RTV on the threads, don't go by what I did (not putting the RTV on), because I did it wrong, despite the fact that I haven't had any problems. I missed a few steps in the removal and installation. No biggie though, I have to pull it back off soon when I have some time so I can put my new timing chain on.

 

yeah last time i put it on i couldn't find a place with a gasket, so i used just rtv sealant. got the gasket just been to goddam lazy to go out and change the gasket

 

Absolutely correct! Thanks for cleaning up the message (and not banning anyone) by the way!

You'll be able to tell which bolts go into water jackets when you unscrew 'em. As you look at the front of the engine, the leftmost pump bolt will DUMP coolant when you remove it.

But, even though by now I know which bolts I should coat and which ones don't need it (4 water pumps!!!! Damn you Pep Boys!!!), I still coat every bolt with blue RTV.

And yes, I coat the bolts. About 1-2 mm of Permatex blue RTV over the whole thing, threads, bottom, shank (non-threaded piece), and bottom of the head. First I get all the bolts cleaned up of old RTV which is a lot of wire brushing and a pain in the butt. Then I get a tube of blue RTV, and spread a piece of tinfoil out onto a drip pan. I coat a bolt and put it on the foil... and repeat for all of the bolts. When every bolt is coated, I re-assemble the pump to the timing chain cover/engine.

After everything's screwed in and torqued to specification, then I wait a half hour or so for the RTV to cure. Of course it should really take a half day to cure, but I'm kind of impatient. I wait at least a half hour before I put antifreeze into the motor.

Oh I also coat that huge water pump gasket with Permatex hi-tack "red" gasket sealer. It's sold at Pep Boys in a small metal can with a brush in the lid. And man, it's super tacky... it's a pain in the *** to work with but it seals well. I lay the gasket out on tinfoil as I coat it. When it's coated, I lay it on the back of the new pump. The sealant is so sticky that the gasket stays firmly in place. Then I coat the bolts with RTV. (Don't want the RTV curing before the bolts are installed!) Then I re-wipe the timing cover flange down so it's got no coolant on it. Oh and I try to use a paper towel to soak up any coolant that's in any of the timing chain cover bolts. Then I put the pump up against the timing chain cover and start putting the coated bolts in.

I've never had a water pump leak yet!

Be careful scraping the timing chain cover to get the old pump gasket off; the timing chain cover is aluminum and gouges VERY easily- take your time! (That's another reason why I use the hi-tack sealant.)

 

Call me crazy, when my water pump went out I didn't have any spare time, I was broke, and I needed the car right now. I pulled the old pump off, removed some of the old gasket, put the new pump on and called it a night. That was 3 years, 30,000 miles, and 3 bottles of nitrous ago and I haven't noticed any leaks.

If your 6cyl is your pride and joy then by all means spend every spare penny doing the job right. Just keep in mind these 2.8's and 3.1's are engineered and constructed very well and cutting a few corners and applying some occasional abuse isn't likely to destroy them.

For the record I've been trying to kill my 3.1 for the last 3 years, so my situation is a little different then most on this board.

 

I'll still never understand why people do that.